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Until you try to mortar a cheap buffer tube and upper and you crack the upper and bend the tube...

The tube will always be a main weak point of the AR platform and it's where I desire the highest quality materials and threading.
Good post and I agree.
 
Until you try to mortar a cheap buffer tube and upper and you crack the upper and bend the tube...

The tube will always be a main weak point of the AR platform and it's where I desire the highest quality materials and threading.

That's why I said the buffer system is a critical part. I consider the tube part of that.
 
I have noticed that as well, out the five Colt uppers that I have bought I had to send back four due to issues with damage... :(
They just recalled some of the CR models due to a dangerous problem with the hammer.
 
They just recalled some of the CR models due to a dangerous problem with the hammer.
"If it's a new Colt, better to bolt"
 
Ah, fair. But since it connects to the upper, the upper is of equal importance. The narrow band at the top rear is susceptible to cracking under bending moments and the upper's threads need to be stout to withstand shear stresses.

I'm not really into ARs like I was 10yrs or so ago. My interests have mostly shifted, and I admittedly haven't kept up, but IIRC back then, conventional thinking was that there were very few companies that made their own receivers in-house. It seems like there was a good chance that your budget receiver and your top tier one were the same besides roll marks. Is that no longer true?
 
They just recalled some of the CR models due to a dangerous problem with the hammer.
Thankfully I run Geissele triggers in all of my builds (I am lucky to have the money to buy them I guess and staying with the same brand makes it easier to swap and fix issues).
 
I'm not really into ARs like I was 10yrs or so ago. My interests have mostly shifted, and I admittedly haven't kept up, but IIRC back then, conventional thinking was that there were very few companies that made their own receivers in-house. It seems like there was a good chance that your budget receiver and your top tier one were the same besides roll marks. Is that no longer true?
I'm no AR expert, but I do know to avoid anything less than 7075 T6 for uppers. My failed AR upper was very soft aluminum. I can't remember the forging mark, but some makers produce everything in-house to ensure quality/tolerances are met.

I'm more of a bullpup guy these days but I do like ARs. I especially like folding AR stocks despite the one shot folded limit.
 
Centurion had some growing pains a decade ago but I would not hesitate to buy anything from them at this point, and I'm a quality snob.
 
My Centurion arms c4 mlok fsb cut rail basically bent in the breeze where my weapon light was mounted. Happened from light bumps while training or tipping over at most, no tough use or being yeeted. Centurions response was pretty much just mlok is just fragile like that and happens to any mlok rail. Very disappointed in a $280 rail that's supposed to best of the best, just don't set it against a tree...

20230707_214341.jpg
 
My Centurion arms c4 mlok fsb cut rail basically bent in the breeze where my weapon light was mounted. Happened from light bumps while training or tipping over at most, no tough use or being yeeted. Centurions response was pretty much just mlok is just fragile like that and happens to any mlok rail. Very disappointed in a $280 rail that's supposed to best of the best, just don't set it against a tree...

View attachment 1451067
Here's the thing... any free float, long AR handguard is going to be weak and anything that isn't picatinny is going to be more susceptible to damage. That's why my hard-use AR is milspec with standard length picatinny handguard. I've never managed to bend, twist, or damage anything on that rifle except for typical aluminum damage (I hate aluminum).
 
Here's the thing... any free float, long AR handguard is going to be weak and anything that isn't picatinny is going to be more susceptible to damage. That's why my hard-use AR is milspec with standard length picatinny handguard. I've never managed to bend, twist, or damage anything on that rifle except for typical aluminum damage (I hate aluminum).
I have several 12"+ rails which are quite robust. The C4 is more a great choice when you are replacing plastic handguards. I have a 12" mlok c4 on a 20" FSB rilfe. That is probably a perfect application for a c4.
 

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