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I looked at the photos. The first one does look like a light strike. the second one looks like a real hard strike. I was wondering if you pulled the bullets to check the powder in the case?
thanks for the reply! theyre all pictures of the same round. i'll pull the round apart when i get home
 
Powder has nothing to do with it, you will hear the pop of the primer, whether or not it ignites the powder.
Primer #1 definitely looked like a light strike. Did you ever try to refire the same bullet? I'd done that on my misfires.
If you're pin extends 0.060" from the bolt face as you say, check the K value of spring or for free movement and no binding.
I store my primers with rice as a desicant in a cabinet in my unheated garage, which ranges from 40 to 85. I've been using some really old SPP bricks for 223 which I bought 16 years ago. I think I get 1 misfire a year. I guess I've been lucky.
 
The first thing I would do is pull the bullet, and pour the powder into a glass bowl. Then pop out the primer being careful if it pops. The bonus there is if it pops, you know the primer was good. Then examine the powder and primer for contamination, things like powder clumping, discoloration and the like. Make sure the primer has primer compound in it. I have in the past, taken a suspect primer and put it between a hammer and anvil (Note - I had full covering mostly of leather and a face shield).


elsie
 
question on the anvil being in spec?
I had a defective lot of WLP primers a few years back that anvil would fall out of the primer randomly in normal handling.

"Non fire" would appear randomly until I chased the problem down.

If your anvil is present in that photoed case, ignore this inquiry.
 
and this is how i got .061
View attachment 321805
if i have to measure it from the breachface to the tip of the pin i am thinking im going to have to get a different measuring tool.

It looks like you are measuring from the very end of the bolt to the tip of the firing pin, to get the .061".

You need to measure from the breech face of the bolt (the recess, where the case head rests,) to the tip of the firing pin.

You should be able to do this with your dial calipers, just move the depth gauge part to one side of the firing pin, measure from the very end of the bolt like you have pictured to the breech face, then measure from the very end of the bolt like you have pictured to the tip of the firing pin, and subtract. (say the measurement from the very end of the bolt to the breech face of the bolt is .120" and the measurement from the very end of the bolt to the tip of the firing pin .061", you have a firing pin protrusion of .059".)

At least that is how I am seeing how you are getting your measurement of .061".

Hope this helps.....
 
primer:
IMG_2719.JPG
image.jpg
 
A normal fired primer will appear blackened in/on the interior of the cup. Especially, at the anvil's point looking from the that point of view (first pic).

Your's looks shiny.

Aloha, Mark
 
Last Edited:
A normal fired primer will appear blackened in/on the interior of the cup. Especially, at the anvil's point looking from the that point of view (first pic).

Your's looks shiny.

Aloha, Mark
Yea I don't think that one went off.
Looks like a good hit.
This is Oregon and there are different garages and how dry they are. Try to err very safely when it comes to primers.
 
Getting some FTF rounds in my carry revolver, I thought I was getting light strikes on the duds. But on close examination, I realized that the less-dented primers were actually a little bit depressed in the brass. It was "bargain" ammo a brand I don't normally use.

$64 question: Did they come from the factory that way, or become dislodged when struck?

Are your primers staying flush?
 
having a heck of a time finding the correct firing pin for this gun. it is not the savage 110 firing pin that is adjustable like previous years. its apparently the same pin as the axis model and i cannot find anything online. any help would be much much appreciated. looks like this:
View attachment 321810

Here you go..............
Firing Pin, Long Action Gun Parts | 1401130B | Numrich Gun Parts

Firing Pin, Short Action Gun Parts | 1401120B | Numrich Gun Parts
 
For some odd reason as I read this thread I keep hearing a little voice in the back of my head saying that I wouldn't want to start messing with a firing pin till I knew for sure the ammo wasn't to blame.

Someone else suggested this and I've not seen the answer - Can you shoot a box or two of factory loads through it without experiencing the same problems?

Likewise - next time this happens does it go off with a second strike of the firing pin or not?
 
UPDATE!!! LOL yeah 4 months later...

finally got around to shooting this rifle again after disassembling and thoroughly cleaning the bolt assembly...i shot 15 reloads. it misfired 1 round out of the same batch of reloads with those magtech LR primers. after a minute of me waiting for something to happen. i ejected the roundand inspected the primer. it had a good strike. it fired on the second trigger squeeze. it has to be the primers.

i fired an entire box of factory corelokts without a problem.

it has good firing pin protrusion and passes the go/no go headapace gauges.

i am going to be throwing away those magtech primers and going back to cci and winchester and also, putting a wolff extra power spring in it just to be safe.

any further suggestions?

thanks guys.
 

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