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So I bought another M92 pap in 762x39 and a set of dies as well and I've run into a road block as how to proceed. The die set I purchased is a lee and the sizing die comes with two expander balls one in .308 and one in .311 and according to the info I've gathered depending on what bullet is used will determine which expander is needed. So to make this decision of what components I should use it's seems to me I need to slug the barrel which is a task I've never undertaken to find the bore diameter.
Is slugging as easy as it looks? Am I over complicating this set up? I'm looking at using H335 and 123gr. Or 150gr. Jacketed bullets. Any input on this is much appreciated.
 
Hmm, that's interesting and nice of LEE. I'd imagine that one could use the smaller expander if one only had the smaller diameter bullets but I'd use the standard bullet diameter of .312 and use the .311 expander.
 
GENERALLY SPEAKING, American guns (Ruger Mini-Thirty, AR barrels) chambered in 7.62X39 are intended for .308" diameter bullets, while foreign guns (SKS, AK-47)are intended for .310" bullets. However, the only way to be sure is to measure the bore. FWIW I use 31.5 gr.s of H335 with 123 gr. Sierra bullets for my 20" AR with excellent results. Always use published data, don't trust the internet, work up your loads, etc. etc.
 
GENERALLY SPEAKING, American guns (Ruger Mini-Thirty, AR barrels) chambered in 7.62X39 are intended for .308" diameter bullets, while foreign guns (SKS, AK-47)are intended for .310" bullets. However, the only way to be sure is to measure the bore. FWIW I use 31.5 gr.s of H335 with 123 gr. Sierra bullets for my 20" AR with excellent results. Always use published data, don't trust the internet, work up your loads, etc. etc.
I had heard the older Ruger guns were .308 but the current production is .310

I had a Chinese ar barrel that was to spec for 7.62x39. I think and hope the days of .308 Diam in 7.62x39 are over. All of my PMC has .310 bullets.
 
My take on this subject.....

OK...I can remember that it wasn't so long ago, when components for reloading "commie guns" was a problem. Shooting cheap commie surplus (.10 a rd Chinese ammo) was one thing. But, there were always those wanting something better. And, finding a bullet in .311 was not that easy. However .308 bullets were cheap and available everywhere. So...you loaded your commie ammo up using .308 bullets.

Even today....well, look at the price on a 100 ct. box of .311 bullets vs .308 bullets.

It was also said that even with a .308 bullet (good quality one) you could get results. Some claimed that the results were better vs. using surplus ammo.

The bore size of American made commie caliber firearms (7.62 x 39 mm or 7.62 x54R mm) is also another chapter/story in this history....which I won't get into.

On a side note.....finding Berdan primers for commie steel cases or re-loadable brass (Boxer primer) in those calibers can be a problem and expensive.

BTW, I have the dies. But, I haven't tried it yet.....I not that much of a glutton for punishment. :eek:

Aloha, Mark
 
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The bore size of American made commie caliber firearms (7.62 x 39 mm or 7.62 x54R mm) is also another chapter/story in this history....which I won't get into.
I'm interested if you're willing to share.

I have an npap m70 with a us barrel. Anything I should know?
 
Misteramax,

I've got nothing in particular, about your specific fiream's barrel.

My story of the American production of firearms in commie calibers is like..."What would you be doing, if?"

OK....some of us might remember the days of Remington Surplus Mosin Nagants and M39s (the Finnish redone Mosin Nagants). Yup....they were cheap. Problem was.....ammo. Cheap commie ammo just wasn't there, like it is today.

LOL....I passed on many firearms just because I couldn't get cheap ammo for them. It's like...."What's the use, if you can't shoot it?"

Anyway....(Nixon happened) the flood gates opened with the Chinese importation of semi-auto AKs and commie ammo. Remember, cheap Mosins and AKs from the Eastern European Commies wasn't happening....yet. There was still a wall between East Germany and West Germany.

And, American's like "accurate" firearms. Not to mention, that, the anti-commie feelings, as some still remembered that the Chinese helped the N. Vietnamese.

Of course, American gun manufacturers wanted a piece of the pie. So....you gonna build a rifle in true .311 or .308? The tools to make a true .311 is gonna cost. Is it worth the investment? (As it's been mentioned already.....Ruger's Mini-14).

Once the Eastern European surplus hit the market.....things changed once more.

Aloha, Mark
 
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My findings for .311 bullets are around $22-26 per 100 and .308 around $18+ per 100 so for me that margin doesn't matter, I'm more looking at the pressure and accuracy side. According to Lee .311 bullets can be used in a .308 bore but starting loads become your max load and vice versa with the "potential" diminish of accuracy. I'm thinking about buying a box of Hornady .311 and .308 just too see what happens... Anyone recommend against this?
 
The Courier,

I got nothing really negative to comment about your reloading plans. However, if it were me, I'd start by reloading .308 bullets and seeing if that'll be "better" than surplus 7.62x39 mm.

OK so.....the main reason why I bought the dies but haven't gotten around to reloading 7.62x39 is because of the price of surplus ammo. Then of course, the other problems about reloadable brass and primers. Think about it for a moment.......

Bullets.............0.22 per round (your price for .311 bullets)
Powder...........0.08 to 0.09 per round
Primers...........0.035 per round (if it were boxer primers)
Total w/o adding for cases............call it at 0.34 a round

Versus about 0.25 a round for surplus 7.62x39 in bulk. And, I don't have to spend my time reloading.

Yes, I know that not everyone is concerned about price or their time spent. Some, are motivated by the search for accuracy. Me....I got plenty of ARs and M1As to play with if I was gonna search for accuracy.

Aloha, Mark
 
I agree 100%, the cost of cheap steel cased vs brass or handloads doesn't even out, this more of an experiment along with getting my feet wet with the 7.62x39. I would like to see what kind of groupings a 10.5" AK can produce with a little effort, I talked with a guy who reloads this caliber and he recommended the Hornady .311 SST as for him this was the best producing bullet.
 
These days I reserve steel cased ammo for a truck gun or beater. Better yet, I think the way to go for steel cased is an AR in 7.62x39. just because you can change your barrels and gas blocks with ease. Guys, in the early 2000's wolf was good stuff. These days, stuff like Tula, is using substandard powder and eroding rifling, throats, and gas ports as early as 5000 rounds.
 
I agree 100%, the cost of cheap steel cased vs brass or handloads doesn't even out, this more of an experiment along with getting my feet wet with the 7.62x39. I would like to see what kind of groupings a 10.5" AK can produce with a little effort, I talked with a guy who reloads this caliber and he recommended the Hornady .311 SST as for him this was the best producing bullet.

This 123 gr. bullet performs quite well in my 1966 CHICOM SKS.
 
Here is an easy way to cast your barrel. Take a (soft) lead fishing weight, hammer it into your barrel muzzle end pull it out then measure the lands. Easy as Pie.
See photo

o. 004.JPG
 
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I agree 100%, the cost of cheap steel cased vs brass or handloads doesn't even out, this more of an experiment along with getting my feet wet with the 7.62x39. I would like to see what kind of groupings a 10.5" AK can produce with a little effort, I talked with a guy who reloads this caliber and he recommended the Hornady .311 SST as for him this was the best producing bullet.

So I am assuming your M92 pap with a 10.5 inch barrel is a pistol or a pistol with a pistol brace and not an SBR. If you want to determine how accurate that weapon is bench shoot it with Federal Power Shok. No reloading required.
 

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