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Keep an eye on the Bi-Mart ads. They had the Mica Bronze Takedown for $219 not too long ago. There might be another sale in the future.

Ha! Just got home from Bi-Mart! I went up there to see what they had, sure enough there was two of them on the rack.
I inspected one of them, and the barrel moves a significant amount! With the rifle locked in place, I would guess there was at least 1mm of lateral movement at the top of the barrel. Totally get that makes no difference with the irons on the barrel, but man that 1mm would end up being quite a bit at 100 yards shooting off the reciever.
 
Ha! Just got home from Bi-Mart! I went up there to see what they had, sure enough there was two of them on the rack.
I inspected one of them, and the barrel moves a significant amount! With the rifle locked in place, I would guess there was at least 1mm of lateral movement at the top of the barrel. Totally get that makes no difference with the irons on the barrel, but man that 1mm would end up being quite a bit at 100 yards shooting off the reciever.

* I just posted the March 1 ad circular. Regular 10/22 will be $190 on Thursday.
 
Ha! Just got home from Bi-Mart! I went up there to see what they had, sure enough there was two of them on the rack.
I inspected one of them, and the barrel moves a significant amount! With the rifle locked in place, I would guess there was at least 1mm of lateral movement at the top of the barrel. Totally get that makes no difference with the irons on the barrel, but man that 1mm would end up being quite a bit at 100 yards shooting off the reciever.

As others have mentioned the Takedown has an adjustment for this reason. When I got mine it was set loose at factory. I can't see any difference now in POI when I put it together but I'm not trying to get match accuracy. Taking a quick look at Ebay they have pages of threaded barrels, many with iron sights, many in the $100 range. For me I would just buy the takedown with the threaded.
 
I'm willing to bet that tightening up the locking ring would make a huge difference in the amount of play.

Yeah have to adjust that spacer properly...all the ones I have were loose out of the box

Are you guys speaking of the ribbed aluminium ring at the front of the reciever? I played with that ring and adjusted it as tight as it went with just my finger tips. That was how I got the 1mm movement, it was much worse before i tightened the ring.
Is there more to adjusting the barrel than this? @WAYNO spoke of adjusting headspace. Is that done in another way as well?
 
Are you guys speaking of the ribbed aluminium ring at the front of the reciever? I played with that ring and adjusted it as tight as it went with just my finger tips. That was how I got the 1mm movement, it was much worse before i tightened the ring.
Is there more to adjusting the barrel than this? @WAYNO spoke of adjusting headspace. Is that done in another way as well?

Maybe you adjusted it the wrong way? There is some specific technique, too, in the manual - adjust it without the barrel attached, then attach, then make more precise tightening or loosening.
 
Are you guys speaking of the ribbed aluminium ring at the front of the reciever? I played with that ring and adjusted it as tight as it went with just my finger tips. That was how I got the 1mm movement, it was much worse before i tightened the ring.
Is there more to adjusting the barrel than this? @WAYNO spoke of adjusting headspace. Is that done in another way as well?

Have not had to try again on mine since it was new but it's in the manual how to do it. Sounds like you moved it the wrong way but if it can't be tightened better than that it may need to go back to Ruger. Once mine was set it's very tight when put together.
 
So what you're saying is the grouping was excellent, but there was always a poi shift and you left it as is. How far did it shift? And did it shift with any consistancy?
I could totally get behind the takedown idea if the shift was only a minimal amount from a residential zero. But if it continued to walk that would suck!
Are you guys speaking of the ribbed aluminium ring at the front of the reciever? I played with that ring and adjusted it as tight as it went with just my finger tips. That was how I got the 1mm movement, it was much worse before i tightened the ring.
Is there more to adjusting the barrel than this? @WAYNO spoke of adjusting headspace. Is that done in another way as well?

Yes, the adjustment is done with the barrel removed. A click at a time until it's too tight to latch, and then back it off one click. For discussions sake, I say headspace, but it's really not. The adjustment just removes any chance of movement between the barrel and receiver.
 
It should require some force to mate the two halves, and I like to err on the side of being almost too tight.

As a side note, if anybody is looking for a pink stock and bag for their Takedown rifle, I happen to have a spare set lying around that I would gladly trade/sell.
 
I have looked into this idea. I found threaded barrels as inexpensive as $100, and boy do they go up in price fast! When researching barrels, I could not find anything that had iron sights and a threaded barrel that was reasonable when factoring the cost of a new rifle.
And My old 10/22 has been such a great rifle. I really do not want to change it, and if I end up replacing it with a new 10/22 I would like to know that whoever gets it next is getting a tried and true rifle.
I am also a bit fearful that once I start messing with changing barrels on my current 10/22, it will not "feel" the same to me. I am sure that it can be done reliably, but there is a certain trust that I have in it now.
I guess what I am rambling about is that I dont want to mess around with a perfectly good rifle that has served me so well.

Contact Tom Denall. He has done several rifles for me and my friends.

1) Cut front sight off.
2) thread barrel
3) cut shoulder behind threads
4) drill out barrel stub in front sight to shoulder diameter
5) press fit/lock tite front sight behind threads

Enjoy the best of both worlds
 
Contact Tom Denall. He has done several rifles for me and my friends.

1) Cut front sight off.
2) thread barrel
3) cut shoulder behind threads
4) drill out barrel stub in front sight to shoulder diameter
5) press fit/lock tite front sight behind threads

Enjoy the best of both worlds


Well I just got off the phone with Ruger. They have my barrel made and ready to ship. It's kinda nice that they made it without commitment to purchase!
I pulled the trigger on it. They are so wonderful and nice to work with. The lady gave me a loyalty discount and free shipping, bringing the total to $189 to my door. That's slightly better to swallow than what I was quoted before, and at least it's the same as I paid for the rifle instead of more. :)
I guess I will be the only guy on the block with a factory threaded factory taper 1995 10/22 Sporter. Doubt I'll turn any heads though :rolleyes:
Thanks everyone for the help in figuring this out. I wasn't too impressed with the takedown offerings. And I'm glad I won't be dumping big money into building a tack driver.
It will remain my old school simple fun Ruger 10/22, but with a silencer. Should be just fine :)
 
That's a pretty good deal, considering. Another thought is you might try to find a donor rifle or receiver for the new barrel, and keep your original rifle the way it is.

After all, one can never have too many 10/22s...

;)
 
After all, one can never have too many 10/22s...

;)

That's all relative to how full your safe is already :)

B486AD0F-3D8E-4926-8242-2A91989F003F.jpeg
 
If you alternate barrel down, barrel up, you can easily fit more in there.

Glad you were able to get a factory option from Ruger!
 
I have a takedown, it's a fun shooter/backpack rifle. I had a friend cut an old 10/22 walnut stock for it. But my favorite 10/22 is an all Kidd build in a Bell & Carlson Anschutz stock. Has a 1lb 2 stage trigger, it will outshoot me all day long, expensive tack driver! LOL!
 
I have built several rifles on the Ruger 10/22 platform - have 5
here is my favorite - a Tony Kidd 10/22 target rifle

has a Krieger match bull barrel
Tony Kidd trigger
Kidd bolt buffer
Kidd firing pin and springs
Hogue overmolded stock

and my field rifle - a 10/22 M1 Carbine conversion

rjmt
P1030550.JPG t P1030548.JPG 10_22 Carbine_1.JPG
 

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