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Keep an eye on the Bi-Mart ads. They had the Mica Bronze Takedown for $219 not too long ago. There might be another sale in the future.
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Keep an eye on the Bi-Mart ads. They had the Mica Bronze Takedown for $219 not too long ago. There might be another sale in the future.
Ha! Just got home from Bi-Mart! I went up there to see what they had, sure enough there was two of them on the rack.
I inspected one of them, and the barrel moves a significant amount! With the rifle locked in place, I would guess there was at least 1mm of lateral movement at the top of the barrel. Totally get that makes no difference with the irons on the barrel, but man that 1mm would end up being quite a bit at 100 yards shooting off the reciever.
Ha! Just got home from Bi-Mart! I went up there to see what they had, sure enough there was two of them on the rack.
I inspected one of them, and the barrel moves a significant amount! With the rifle locked in place, I would guess there was at least 1mm of lateral movement at the top of the barrel. Totally get that makes no difference with the irons on the barrel, but man that 1mm would end up being quite a bit at 100 yards shooting off the reciever.
I'm willing to bet that tightening up the locking ring would make a huge difference in the amount of play.
Yeah have to adjust that spacer properly...all the ones I have were loose out of the box
Are you guys speaking of the ribbed aluminium ring at the front of the reciever? I played with that ring and adjusted it as tight as it went with just my finger tips. That was how I got the 1mm movement, it was much worse before i tightened the ring.
Is there more to adjusting the barrel than this? @WAYNO spoke of adjusting headspace. Is that done in another way as well?
Are you guys speaking of the ribbed aluminium ring at the front of the reciever? I played with that ring and adjusted it as tight as it went with just my finger tips. That was how I got the 1mm movement, it was much worse before i tightened the ring.
Is there more to adjusting the barrel than this? @WAYNO spoke of adjusting headspace. Is that done in another way as well?
So what you're saying is the grouping was excellent, but there was always a poi shift and you left it as is. How far did it shift? And did it shift with any consistancy?
I could totally get behind the takedown idea if the shift was only a minimal amount from a residential zero. But if it continued to walk that would suck!
Are you guys speaking of the ribbed aluminium ring at the front of the reciever? I played with that ring and adjusted it as tight as it went with just my finger tips. That was how I got the 1mm movement, it was much worse before i tightened the ring.
Is there more to adjusting the barrel than this? @WAYNO spoke of adjusting headspace. Is that done in another way as well?
I have looked into this idea. I found threaded barrels as inexpensive as $100, and boy do they go up in price fast! When researching barrels, I could not find anything that had iron sights and a threaded barrel that was reasonable when factoring the cost of a new rifle.
And My old 10/22 has been such a great rifle. I really do not want to change it, and if I end up replacing it with a new 10/22 I would like to know that whoever gets it next is getting a tried and true rifle.
I am also a bit fearful that once I start messing with changing barrels on my current 10/22, it will not "feel" the same to me. I am sure that it can be done reliably, but there is a certain trust that I have in it now.
I guess what I am rambling about is that I dont want to mess around with a perfectly good rifle that has served me so well.
Contact Tom Denall. He has done several rifles for me and my friends.
1) Cut front sight off.
2) thread barrel
3) cut shoulder behind threads
4) drill out barrel stub in front sight to shoulder diameter
5) press fit/lock tite front sight behind threads
Enjoy the best of both worlds