Amateur reloading question(s)

[Member 5605]

Cases stick in a belling/flaring die because there is resistance pulling the case out. There are ways to mitigate this problem. Some of us that clean brass with soap that uses a light wax (carnuba wax) it all but reduces that sticking (in pistol cases).

Clean brass will stick a little more than dirty brass as the dirt/grime/residue also acts like a poor mans lubricant.

 

[DLS]

The sticking case issue is common with the Dillon, there is a ton of info on the web and Dillon's site about this. I too use the rinse with a "wash n wax" to solve the problem. It works well and the wax coating on the brass retard tarnishing for a very long time. I have begun to shoot ICORE matches and I think the wax coated brass ejects better from the revolver during reloads. It may be in my head but I can go to at least 150 rounds before I notice sticky ejection.

I like extruded powder for my rifle loads, and this type of powder challenges the Dillon powder measures. One work around is using a manual drum measure and manually cranking the powder measure handle when the press is in the topmost position. It really only adds a second or too the process. It sounds worse that it is. You need the powder die that was used with the 450, a threaded adapter for your manual powder measure and, just like the current measures, the proper powder funnel. Dillon sells all of this, of course, and it's not a lot of money. This way I get very accurate metering of the powder charge even with the 4895s and 4064 all the while getting the other time saving features of the progressive. I do size and prime rifle off the press I should add.

I hope this helps.