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Hi all I am getting ready to try my first AR build. Was wanting any advice that more experienced builders could provide. Anything and everything is helpful. Which products would you use or recommend? Where you prefer to shop? I have been thinking of going with a spikes lower and aero upper with a faxon 16" barrel. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
16" or longer is good to start for a rifle. Oregon Rifle Works has lots of parts usually even now. They have ammo if you are willing to pay those prices. 16" or longer will give you the velocity, and range if you wanted to use it for hunting some day in the future.

aero, and spikes are generally good brands. I would spend a little more on the newer uppers and lowers that use screws for things like the bolt catch, and forward assist instead of pins. The pins aren't that hard, but it's just that much nicer to not have to mess up the finish trying to get them in. You can use masking tape on the frame if you have to get any pins into a hard spot. Some of the newer lowers have the trigger guard built into the frame, which is nice because that's sort of a stupid part to have to put in there.

Get at least an ALG or better trigger, the trigger in most lower parts kits are trash usually, I mean they work; it's worth it to spend a little more on a nicer trigger and quality barrel. Skip the spend on a muzzle device, unless you want a quick detach for a suppressor. The A2 birdcages are like $10 and work fine.

Make sure you understand how to check the headspace before shooting with the proper gauges, with a full bolt disaseembly (a little pain) or better yet, take it to a gunsmith to check the headspace for you for $10-20. They can teach you how to do it usually in a few minutes. Often the upper parts align perfectly, but it's worth it to check the headspace so it doesn't blow up in your face. You might consider getting gauges to recheck 2500-5000 rounds, or if you buy one used before taking it out.

Use loctite sparingly if at all, I don't use it at all. My gunsmith said he's had barrel nuts he had to heat with a torch to get off because it was tightened to hard + loctite.

All in all it's super fun as a hobby, let me know if you have ?s
 
Buy only exactly what you need, and get rid of anything you upgrade immediately! Take a loss if you have to. You'll still be $$ ahead in the long run.
Much like spooning leads to forking, extra parts lead to more builds.
This gets VERY expensive and can lead to a build addiction that can take over your entire life. A small plastic tote full of odds and ends becomes a large tackle box...becomes a Rubbermaid tub...becomes a spare bedroom, becomes every flat surface in your 3000 sf house...
that's what I've heard anyway.
 
16" or longer is good to start for a rifle. Oregon Rifle Works has lots of parts usually even now. They have ammo if you are willing to pay those prices. 16" or longer will give you the velocity, and range if you wanted to use it for hunting some day in the future.

aero, and spikes are generally good brands. I would spend a little more on the newer uppers and lowers that use screws for things like the bolt catch, and forward assist instead of pins. The pins aren't that hard, but it's just that much nicer to not have to mess up the finish trying to get them in. You can use masking tape on the frame if you have to get any pins into a hard spot. Some of the newer lowers have the trigger guard built into the frame, which is nice because that's sort of a stupid part to have to put in there.

Get at least an ALG or better trigger, the trigger in most lower parts kits are trash usually, I mean they work; it's worth it to spend a little more on a nicer trigger and quality barrel. Skip the spend on a muzzle device, unless you want a quick detach for a suppressor. The A2 birdcages are like $10 and work fine.

Make sure you understand how to check the headspace before shooting with the proper gauges, with a full bolt disaseembly (a little pain) or better yet, take it to a gunsmith to check the headspace for you for $10-20. They can teach you how to do it usually in a few minutes. Often the upper parts align perfectly, but it's worth it to check the headspace so it doesn't blow up in your face. You might consider getting gauges to recheck 2500-5000 rounds, or if you buy one used before taking it out.

Use loctite sparingly if at all, I don't use it at all. My gunsmith said he's had barrel nuts he had to heat with a torch to get off because it was tightened to hard + loctite.

All in all it's super fun as a hobby, let me know if you have ?s
Thank you for the info. I really appreciate all of it. Also, yes I had planned on an upgraded trigger as I have heard that the kit ones are essentially trash ( they work but harder pull and not as smooth for break and reset). I will definitely be checking them out for parts. Again much appreciated
 
What is a purpose of the build? What is your budget?

Personally, I'm not a fan of Spikes or Faxon but that's just me.
Purpose is for range shooting and possibly hunting as well. Budget is, well, not exactly specified at this time. Which I'm told is not a good thing (for the wallet). But if I could try and stay around the 5-600 mark that would be ideal. Again not exactly sure on all costs going into a build but that's lower on my list as this is something I have been wanting for awhile now.
 
Thank you for the info. I really appreciate all of it. Also, yes I had planned on an upgraded trigger as I have heard that the kit ones are essentially trash ( they work but harder pull and not as smooth for break and reset). I will definitely be checking them out for parts. Again much appreciated

That depends on the LPK, there is nothing wrong the trigger that come in BCM and SIONICS kits, they are every bit good as an ALG ACT, ALG has LPKs too. I've a bunch of SOLGW w/o trigger from Primary Arms, they are solid kits
 
LOTS of threads to look thru try the search feature. This is just a sample of many.





 
Buy only exactly what you need, and get rid of anything you upgrade immediately! Take a loss if you have to. You'll still be $$ ahead in the long run.
Much like spooning leads to forking, extra parts lead to more builds.
This gets VERY expensive and can lead to a build addiction that can take over your entire life. A small plastic tote full of odds and ends becomes a large tackle box...becomes a Rubbermaid tub...becomes a spare bedroom, becomes every flat surface in your 3000 sf house...
that's what I've heard anyway.
This is what I'm told lol and I can see how this would easily take over space. Something tells me I'm going to really like doing this and it could be dangerous for the wallet. Just gonna have to watch myself and use self control if that's the case
 
LOTS of threads to look thru try the search feature. This is just a sample of many.





Thanks much appreciated
 
Buy only exactly what you need, and get rid of anything you upgrade immediately! Take a loss if you have to. You'll still be $$ ahead in the long run.
Much like spooning leads to forking, extra parts lead to more builds.
This gets VERY expensive and can lead to a build addiction that can take over your entire life. A small plastic tote full of odds and ends becomes a large tackle box...becomes a Rubbermaid tub...becomes a spare bedroom, becomes every flat surface in your 3000 sf house...
that's what I've heard anyway.

"Hi, my name is mygrainman and I have an AR addiction". Haha
 
For the money this is a great option for a 16" barrel.
And on sale at ADM... I just ordered tne 14.5" for one of my most recent builds.
 
I dont think that's the case....but then again if you have parts cover all flat surfaces in a 3000sqft house...I might be wrong
A4C88D35-FEDA-4A9E-92EC-B18C9C54BF63.jpeg
This was my kitchen table 2 hours ago... my wife made me put it away though.:rolleyes:
 

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