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1903a3 experts, 5-43 Smith Corona questions.

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Bought this last year locally. Barrel is 5-43 SC. Receiver SN is 3697xxx.

Few questions.

1. I'm assuming this will be a 4 groove barrel by this later SN. I can't really tell by looking.
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2. Is the stock an original to the rifle? The S-CAA cartouche is not like the others i have seen on SC rifles.

3. I'm getting a crack developing behind the receiver. Is there a way to address it without stripping the stock and refinishing?

Thanks!

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1. Yep, you’re just going to have to count lands and grooves.

2. The scant stock, as said above, is a replacement. The CSAA mark is San Antonio Arsenal.

3. I am not a fan of superglue (to each their own). My preference is for acraglas. I blow out the crack really well with non-chlorinated brake cleaner to degrease, then gently spread the crack with tooth picks and let the crack wick up the acraglas. If you are careful with cleanup after clamping and squeeze out, it shouldn’t require touch-up and if it does, it will be minimal.

The last crack I fixed there I had to touch up. The refinish area was small, but noticeable if you were looking for it. But I was 100% confident in the repair, and for a shooter grade, that was the most important thing.

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That was actually a fairly large compound crack rather than a straight line behind the tang.
 
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This is an original SC stock. Brass pins, straight wrist, correct markings in front of the trigger guard. This one has the Ogden Arsenal mark.

Your bolt shroud also appears to be straight, which would make it a Remington part as well. Pretty common. My SC had a good number of Remington parts when I got it to. Typical rearsenaled condition.

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Ya. What they said.

Superglue is what I use [To each there own]. But The stock should also be relieved around the tang.
That's probably what caused the crack.

The metal has been refinished at some point. Or the ''ON'' on the selector would be in the white.
Like this 03-A3.




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Ura-Ki

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To make the epoxy ( like @ Mountainbear suggests ) easier to get deep into the crack, mix the first batch with isopropyl alcohol in a 50/50 mix and apply with some sort of needle or fine dropper! The nice hypodermic needles allow you to get down into the crack better and squeeze until the mix run out! Wipe with a rag and clamp shut! Once its set, you can inject more epoxy as needed! For really deep cracks, a pin vice and very small drill bits are going to help you, drill a few holes across the cracked area and fill with the 50/50 blend, use shipping tape to cover the holes and clamp as needed! A good 100 watt light bulb inside a wood box will help kick off the epoxy and draw it into the crack better! :)
 

AndyinEverson

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One thing to remember with old military guns is that while we would all love to have a all matching all as first issued condition gun...
Military guns tend to get used...often a lot and often in under less than idea situations...when they are overhauled and re-worked at a armory , the goal is to get a working gun...Not a future collectors piece.

My point is that a re-worked piece may have more actual history than a all matching gun , that is in all original as first issued shape.
I wouldn't sweat a rebuild stamp or let replacement parts keep me from enjoying a military rifle.
Andy
 
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WAW44
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Ohh, absolutely . All my rifles get use. They valiantly poke holes in evil paper until my shoulder cries uncle. I just wanted to get more details on the markings and the history they represent.

One thing to remember with old military guns is that while we would all love to have a all matching all as first issued condition gun...
Military guns tend to get used...often a lot and often in under less than idea situations...when they are overhauled and re-worked at a armory , the goal is to get a working gun...Not a future collectors piece.

My point is that a re-worked piece may have more actual history than a all matching gun , that is in all original as first issued shape.
I wouldn't sweat a rebuild stamp or let replacement parts keep me from enjoying a military rifle.
Andy
 
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If the barrel is marked "SC" , it is most likely 4 groove.

Smith - Corona barrels are only 4 or ( less commonly ) 6 groove.
Only Remington and Johnson Automatics produced 2 groove barrels.
 
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Your serial number was produced in June 43, so the probability of the barrel being original is very high and yes it would be a 4 groove. The 6 grooves were a late 42 thing. There needs to be a relief between the end of the rear tang and the stock as previously mentioned. It "will" crack/ break the stock if fired much without it. As far as the polished side of the magazine disconnect, that was a unit policy and not necessarily Army wide. They are found either way and neither one is right/wrong.
I agree with andyineverson, these were a Soldiers weapon and many experts claim there is no such thing as one in "new unissued" state, and I agree. Even if they did not need any repairs they "all" went through an arsenal, many during service and all after service (many times both).
 

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