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Hey guys. Just got done converting a mak90 to AK configuration (7.62x39). What distance should I zero the sights at? I've read that 25 yards dead on will be dead on again at 200. Has that been your experience? Won't be shooting any fancy high powered stuff, probably just surplus or Wolf (whatever I can get at a good price). Realize AK's weren't designed to be tack drivers, but I want to maximize whatever accuracy the rifle is capable of. Obviously not going to hunt with it, I demand sub MOA at a hundred yards to take a shot on any animal, less self-defence. I can't allow for the possibility of anything less than a clean kill. It's a me thing, animal suffering is not something I can handle. Just looking for good plinking accuracy as the only thing, hopefully, this will ever shoot at is paper or cans (zombies if we ever get lucky:winkkiss:).

Also, any accurizing tricks that have proven to work for you would be great to hear about (something other than buy an AR preferably, it's on my wish list). Already watched some videos on smoothing the action, but, honestly, this thing feels pretty darned smooth already.

Anyway, any input from the experts, which is anyone who has ever fired an AK to me as I have never, would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Most hunters I know, do not demand sub MOA from their hunting rifles and to be honest... I doubt they would know what MOA stands for. :s0114:

Quality built Ak's like your factory built MAK-90 are quite capable of delivering much more accuracy, than most people give them credit for. Think about the rifles the Warsaw Pact Countries use for sniper work, they are the SVD style rifles built on a bigger AK action to handle the 7.62X54R.

I used a receiver mount on my Hungarian SA 85M and it delivered 1 MOA with Russian HP ammunition I had from the early 90's. That is plenty good for a brush gun in the coast range, where shots are often much closer than 100 yards.

Here is an estimation from an online ballistics charts.-
A 7.62X39 with a 123g bullet, with a muzzle velocity of roughly 2360 fps and sighted in at 2.9" high at 100 yards, will place your bullet about 1/2" low at 200yards.

Shooting at 25 yards, after sighting in at 100 yards kind of works. It will give you a base line for future use that will show if anything is way out of whack and you can then roughly put it back if needed.
 
In my limited experience, performing a 25m zero will result in POA hits at 200m with 7.62x39 and 300m POA hits with 5.56x45. This is all ballpark though, and your actual results will vary by the brand or weight of cartridge you shoot, the length of your barrel, etc. In general though, this is a very good zero for plinking.

Where more precise groupings are required, it is best if you perform the 25m zero, then verify how high the resultant groups are at 50m, 100m, 150m etc and record this data so you know exactly how much hold under you need to get your groups right on target.

The most effective way to accurize your AK (or any rifle) is to learn to shoot it with a sling. After the first 25m zero with a new riflle, it almost never sees the bench again. My thinking is, you can't drag a shooting bench with you in the field, so why practice with it? Instead, learn to shoot from prone (attending an Appleseed is an incredible way to learn the basics of this), seated, kneeling and standing. The use of a sling will improve your groups by at least 50% from any of these positions.

Keith
 
Generic trajectories for a .30 cal bullet is 3, 3, 3 and 4. If you sight in your near zero @25y then your far zero is approx. 200y. Fine tuning in the field with your specific rifle and ammo is required. If you have a slide adjustable rear sight make sure it is on the 200m marker when you sight in at 25y.

You will be 3 MOA (3") high @100, zeroed at 200, 3MOA (9") low at 300y. This is typical Battle Sight Zero. No need to make sight adjustments on a man sized target 0-300y away.

If you continue to with the standard trajectories you will be 6 MOA (24") low at 400 and 10MOA (50") low at 500y.
 
I got QuickTarget, an external ballistics s/w. I ran the numbers, assuming a .311" 124gr FMJ with 2400fps muzzle velocity. If your point blank zero is at 25yds, the second zero will be at 170yd, which is fine, since at 200 yd, its only dropped ~2". The vertex (or maximum) occurs at 100yd, at ~2". In short, everything between 0 to 200 yd will ideally be within a ~4-5" diameter circle. For tactical or hunting, it doesn't get any better than that.
trajectory3.jpg

trajectory3.jpg
 
If you are shooting a weapon for the first time and you want to see what is going on without spending a lot of ammo, Just set up a target with a 1'' bull - eight or ten paces in front of you. Shoot a two or three round group that you can now see with the naked eye and adjust from there to center line of the target. Vertical adjustments R EZ @ ANY distance.
By the way I have never shot an AK.
Silver Hand
 

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