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If a given powder is selling for $3 an oz for a new full container what amount of discount (if any) should be given per oz for a partial container of the same type of powder?
OMG.... with all your mental machinations on powder and primer prices that you've been posting about lately these days, I'm beginning to suspect you're a bookkeeper or a CPA.
Jebus Stomper, I had to look that one up, Do you carry a thesaurus with you 24/7???
Except to those who have heard you speak.I may be an ape, but I'm a well read ape.
I wish I was making a CPAs income, maybe then I wouldn't be machinating so muchOMG.... with all your mental machinations on powder and primer prices that you've been posting about lately these days, I'm beginning to suspect you're a bookkeeper or a CPA.
You might want to make use of that ignore button if I start machinating over bullets and brassOMG.... with all your mental machinations on powder and primer prices that you've been posting about lately these days, I'm beginning to suspect you're a bookkeeper or a CPA.
Do you have a link to that forensic powder list?This is another one of those "How much risk are you comfortable with" questions.
An opened can of powder is an unknown. Most likely it's fine. Most reloaders are fairly careful. Sloppy doesn't cut it very long with this sort of thing. I've bought quite a few open cans over the years, and I've really learned what to look for- age of the cans, rust, dust, smell, appearance. The National Center for Forensic Science has photos with measurements of most every gunpowder available. I wouldn't use it to try to ID an unknown powder, but it's helpful in verifying that the powder in an opened can is what it's supposed to be.
I've told this story before, but it's relevant to the subject at hand so I'll tell it again:
Way back when I was first reloading, I bought a shotshell reloader from an old timer, and he threw in a bunch of extras- shot, hulls, wads, powder, even a nice hunting jacket. I started working up a load using a can of "Alcan 5" powder (as I recall). It had something written in sharpie on the lid, but it was too faded to read. I carefully found a recipe in the book for the components I was using, and loaded up a few rounds with increasing charges.
I took them outside and fired the first one into the ground, expecting a light load.
"Boom!" kicked like a mule.
Hmm, weird. I think I'll try the next one.
"Kaboom!" even worse, and the hull came out with the crimp partially ironed out.
Okay, something's not right here, but I was young and dumb, so I lit off the third one.
"KABOOM" no, it didn't blow up, but it's a testament to the strength of the old Mossberg that it didn't. It kicked so bad that the action came open, and the hull was completely ironed out, no crimp left at all. Something was seriously wrong, so I didn't fire the last one; I took it inside and pulled it apart.
I went in and poured over the loading manual, trying to figure out where I went wrong. The recipe was right, everything was right, but it was clearly wrong. I looked closely at the powder can, trying to make out what was on the lid. Finally I turned the can over, and clearly written on the bottom was "Green Dot".
I looked in the manual for data on Green Dot, and my starting load was several grains over maximum!
So, the lesson from this is that while what's in that opened can of powder is most likely exactly what it says it is, there is also the remote possibility that some old geezer put some different powder in the wrong can, for whatever reason.
Except to those who have heard you speak.
You might want to make use of that ignore button if I start machinating over bullets and brass