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The Semi-Auto ramp up is currently .25>>.380>>.45ACP.

Don't cheap out.... ;)

22lr>.25>.380>9mm>.40>.45>10mm>.44Mag Desert Eagle>.50SW Desert Eagle

:D:D:D

:cool:

BTW: .380 mouse/pocket guns like a Taurus are horribly uncomfy to shoot, don't put a newbie on one. And I think you find .38 in a decent size frame revolver shoots about the same as a 9mm... it's an old blackpowder cartridge and loaded pretty tame until you get to the +P.
 
38 special is perfectly safe to use in a 357 mag. However, the 38 won't be as accurate as it would be if fired in a 38 revolver, since the bullet has a longer distance to jump and will deform before it reaches the barrel. If you reload, use 38 loads in 357 brass. Cast bullets and light charges work well for practice. This also solves the problem of the "crud ring" that can form in the cylinder from many 38 rounds, that might make 357 brass hard to fit.
Not in my experience. A whole lot of top PPC shooters use/d L-frames and .357 Pythons using .38 wadcutters ammo.
 
Trying it with a noob is a sure-fire way of persuading them to take up another sport where there are no sadists.

Don't worry. I'm selective about my victims. I can't stand to hear a girl cry. I find it no different than one of my shooting buddies not telling me about the tannerite behind the target

4x9b4o.jpg
 
I've never noticed an accuracy difference with .38 Special in a .357 Magnum either, but I never really thought about it before so never put it to the test.

I've often wondered if the carbon ring in the chambers was a bit overblown too, as I've never had much issue with that either. I don't compete or shoot huge quantities, though. My son has discovered .38 Special in the last year or so, and he really likes my Model 66. He'll go through a couple hundred rounds of .38 Special, and then I'll shoot a couple cylinders full of .357 Magnum. I really should clean it one of these days...
 
Don't worry. I'm selective about my victims. I can't stand to hear a girl cry. I find it no different than one of my shooting buddies not telling me about the tannerite behind the target
A long time ago a buddy was over and we did some shooting. He wasn't much of a shooter but he was a "macho man". I had an old H&R single shot 12 gauge. I shot a couple of light target loads, then handed it to him with a couple of heavy 3" magnum goose loads, the old 1 7/8oz #2 heavies, lead shot. They were no fun in a heavier gun, so it really was a bit of a mean thing to do.

He fired two shots without comment or reaction, but then gave it back to me and said he was done, didn't want to shoot that one any more. He asked me how I could stand to shoot it, with as bad as it kicked. I told him easy- I just don't ever shoot heavy magnums in it! He got a laugh out of it when I fessed up. :)
 
I've never noticed an accuracy difference with .38 Special in a .357 Magnum either, but I never really thought about it before so never put it to the test.

I've often wondered if the carbon ring in the chambers was a bit overblown too, as I've never had much issue with that either. I don't compete or shoot huge quantities, though. My son has discovered .38 Special in the last year or so, and he really likes my Model 66. He'll go through a couple hundred rounds of .38 Special, and then I'll shoot a couple cylinders full of .357 Magnum. I really should clean it one of these days...
Several times I have spent an evening cleaning guns that I regularly shoot (and therefor don't clean every time) because I was going to take them "out in public" i.e. new shooter or some formal event.
 
I've never noticed an accuracy difference with .38 Special in a .357 Magnum either, but I never really thought about it before so never put it to the test.

I've often wondered if the carbon ring in the chambers was a bit overblown too, as I've never had much issue with that either. I don't compete or shoot huge quantities, though. My son has discovered .38 Special in the last year or so, and he really likes my Model 66. He'll go through a couple hundred rounds of .38 Special, and then I'll shoot a couple cylinders full of .357 Magnum. I really should clean it one of these days...
Back in the day I shot tons of .38 in magnum guns. Now it's just pounds.
Anyway, stainless steel chamber brushes are the ticket for removing the fouling rings so magnums can then easily drop in.
They are about 3" long and only about one pass is required after about 500-1000 rounds and they work. They are very difficult to push through cylinders.
 
Back in the day I shot tons of .38 in magnum guns. Now it's just pounds.
Anyway, stainless steel chamber brushes are the ticket for removing the fouling rings so magnums can then easily drop in.
They are about 3" long and only about one pass is required after about 500-1000 rounds and they work. They are very difficult to push through cylinders.
Thanks, I will try this. I can get the fowling with Hoppe's, a nylon brush and a bore snake but it takes a while.
 
If RevBadger reloads....

Yeah, but...
I don't reload, but my dad does. You all should go buy his ammo.

Don't cheap out.... ;)

22lr>.25>.380>9mm>.40>.45>10mm>.44Mag Desert Eagle>.50SW Desert Eagle

:D:D:D

:cool:

BTW: .380 mouse/pocket guns like a Taurus are horribly uncomfy to shoot, don't put a newbie on one. And I think you find .38 in a decent size frame revolver shoots about the same as a 9mm... it's an old blackpowder cartridge and loaded pretty tame until you get to the +P.

Oh I'm working on building up to there. I'm still one of "the poors".

As far as the .380, the one I use is a Bersa Thunder. So not really a little mouse gun, but not really a biggin.

if you line up all the pistols that I have it looks like...

22LR>>.25>>.38 (because the .357)>>.380>>357>>45 ACP>>45LC
 
I rankeled up some feathers when I made a similar statement about the K-Frame forcing cone splitting a while back. Apparently the original Super-Vel ammo in 125 gr was hotter'n Hades
AND to add insult to injury they were loading 110 grain bullets in the Super-Vel as well to excessive pressure levels for the 'K' frame and to about 1600 FPS!

I read a good story about this years ago and while the cracked forcing cones were a real issue it was relatively isolated to the Super-Vel era and with LEO owned guns.

Bottom line is limit the full house ammo in the 'K' Frames, keep it reasonable and there should never be any problems.
 
I've never noticed an accuracy difference with .38 Special in a .357 Magnum either, but I never really thought about it before so never put it to the test.

I've often wondered if the carbon ring in the chambers was a bit overblown too, as I've never had much issue with that either. I don't compete or shoot huge quantities, though. My son has discovered .38 Special in the last year or so, and he really likes my Model 66. He'll go through a couple hundred rounds of .38 Special, and then I'll shoot a couple cylinders full of .357 Magnum. I really should clean it one of these days...
I have totally noticed an accuracy difference between .357 mag and 38spl, I shoot the same group about 2 foot above whatever I'm aiming at with 357mag. It's the darnedest thing, and totally not shooter related.
 
As far as the .380, the one I use is a Bersa Thunder. So not really a little mouse gun, but not really a biggin.

Yes, I read that in your earlier post. One of my buddies has one that I've shot... nice gun. But my arthritic thumb doesn't like the manual safety.

Anywhey, you said you were into buying guns for newbies to try out, just thought I'd warn you not to let a newbie shoot a mouse gun, it would be counterproductive unless you want to show them what guns not to buy. That list would be interesting...
 
" So your saying we should ignore the stamping on the barrels of Smith & Wesson revolvers? Okay... "

Please don't tell me what I said. Perhaps you would care to share your own extensive experience with gunsmithing S&W sidearms.
Like any revolver the M19 would show accelerated wear with heavier loads. The M19 was intended to practice mostly with .38s and carry .357s. The L-Frame was developed because the K-Frame developed issues with timing and end shake with extensive use of Magnum ammo. Note that Manhurin and Korth use heat treated alloys to remedy this, and how much more than any S&W they cost.
 
OK. You all have waited so patiently. But now that money is spent and we are just waiting for sherrifs to say yay, I can tell you.

I got a S&W Model 65-3. It's pretty and will make a good addition to my collection. You all can thank @Tinman357. It was one of his and you all missed out. I'll post pics when I get it back from purgatory.
 
" So your saying we should ignore the stamping on the barrels of Smith & Wesson revolvers? Okay... "

Please don't tell me what I said. Perhaps you would care to share your own extensive experience with gunsmithing S&W sidearms.
Like any revolver the M19 would show accelerated wear with heavier loads. The M19 was intended to practice mostly with .38s and carry .357s. The L-Frame was developed because the K-Frame developed issues with timing and end shake with extensive use of Magnum ammo. Note that Manhurin and Korth use heat treated alloys to remedy this, and how much more than any S&W they cost.

The ye olde end shake and gap.. What a about a lost art..
 
RevBadger:::
Shoot any weight .38 you like, but that particular pistol likes the 158gn. Stick to the 158gn or heavier in the .357mag. The sights are dead on at 25 yards with the 158's. Just a hair low with the 140gn. I'm betting a hair high with the 180gn.

The ammo I left you with is Federal .38spl +P. 125gn semi jacket HP. Trust me, they'll get the job done out of that 4" tube.

Enjoy that sixgun and drop me a pm and let me know how it handles for you.:s0010:

Oh,,, use snap caps for dry fire. That hammer mounted firing pin is getting tough to find. I should have brought you some. I forgot.
 
I like to run a cylinder full of Magnums after 3 0r 4 cylinders full of 38 specials. Burns out the carbon build up from shooting
the shorter 38s.;)
Question?
The carbon ring from the .38 Special is behind the case mouth of the .357.
Please explain how the firing of the .357 burns out the carbon ring.
Best,
Gary
 
Question?
The carbon ring from the .38 Special is behind the case mouth of the .357.
Please explain how the firing of the .357 burns out the carbon ring.
Best,
Gary
Shooting the 357 full power jacketed loads reduces the build up of lead from 38 lead wadcutters. It does work don't know how.
I have been doing this since I bought my first 357 handgun in 1978.
 
Shooting the 357 full power jacketed loads reduces the build up of lead from 38 lead wadcutters. It does work don't know how.
I have been doing this since I bought my first 357 handgun in 1978.
Lead buildup, I understand. The carbon ring is what I was addressing.
Best,
Gary
 

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