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I worked in a gun shop also polished and blued guns back in the 60s. If it is solid SS and not investment cast metal. that is how it is done.
I'm not saying your wrong, or a bad gunsmith. Idk anything about you. But I've met and seen enough work by gunsmiths that I NEVER send my guns in for someone else to do whatever they see fit to my equipment.
I'm a former gun smith and medical instrument tech which is a lot like gun smithing and jewelry making. And a former body man for several years sculpting on cars and maybe my eye is just more critical than others.
Its sounds straight forward but technique is everything and I don't presume to take a straight statement and say your wrong. I could see it working but I could also see it digging a hole depending on the technique.
I could see potentially grey Scotch brite wheeling it with a dremel/foredom and blending it well enough to never notice. I wouldn't really consider than machining though.
But whatever its semantics I'd rather not get into. Hopefully you get what I'm saying I always error on the side of caution especially if someone is asking I assume they don't know.
 
Use A 3M Scotch Brite 7447 pad. Maroon color. You can get these off Amazon. I have used these successfully to remove scratches off stainless pistols that have a satin brushed finish. Just start lightly, stroke in one direction with the finish grain.

This Guy ^^^^^^^^^. I've been cleaning up Ruger SS handguns for 30 years. I've cleaned up worse scratches then the OPs, so that they no longer exist. The best pad match for me has been Grey 7748, but I have also used Maroon 7447. The green Scotch Brite on the opposite side of that yellow sponge on your sink is very close to Grey 7748, but I would start with a new one, and perhaps a used one for the final passes to blend/match. Below I have a Scotch Brite reference that has served me well, and associates the pad color to the approximate grit.

JP9

Scotchbrite Grits.PNG
 
Scotch-brite pads to blend, depending on the depth of the scratch you may need to use 600 or greater sandpaper first to remove the scratches. I would not use the polishing pastes unless I were going to polish the whole gun.
Right here ^^^
This is how I would roll to keep the brushed look.
Go easy to match existing.

Then do your victory lap !
 
Use A 3M Scotch Brite 7447 pad. Maroon color. You can get these off Amazon. I have used these successfully to remove scratches off stainless pistols that have a satin brushed finish. Just start lightly, stroke in one direction with the finish grain.

I most def. Would put some painters tape on the transition corner that breaks the sandblast and brushed finishes just to make sure its a 2 sec precaution. And man.. You could get in trouble using a steel hammer for the second demo, I'd use a brass or plastic soft faced hammer for the sand blast finish. Or at least tape some Popsicle sticks to your hammer face if nothing else. But yeah generally looks right.
Pro tip You can also cut the scotch brute pad into a circle and mount them a couple wide into a dremel madrel I use a couple diamond wheels as washers to help hold them without spinning. Makes a mess though as the wheels wear but WAY quicker and leaves a nice finish.
 
If you polish it, you'll lose the brushed look and it will become more chrome-like.
The scratch doesn't appear to be deep at all. Either polish out the whole gun by hand ,(for god's sake no effing wheels) , or, regrain the surface with the appropriate grit. Done carefully it's undetectable. Yes I have done it.
 
Removal of a scratch, metal or wood, is childs play compared to blending or matching the surrounding areas appearance.
Spot blending is a trick tough to master for the layman.
My shtick is to just let it be unless I'm willing to do the entire area that matters.
 

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