Rust Prevention in the PNW

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Yeah, the stainless thing is curious, lots of people taking names at face value.

As for the lube 'compatibility' - It's normally a case of going from type to type. I don't mind that as i prefer the non petroleum based stuff, it's actually a little more effective as well as being kinder on the nose and skin

 

[Alexx1401]

Incompatibility with other lubes (turns to glue if there's a trace of your previous lube) pretty much rules a product out for me. Thank you.

Yep, the "stainless" confusion puzzles me. By now, everyone should know that "stainless" or "rostfrei" mean rust RESISTANT, and that there exist literally hundreds of "stainless" alloys, all with varying degrees of rust resistance.

MANY myths just die hard. Does not happen as much any more. I still now and then run into someone who "thinks" getting hit with a bullet sends someone flying backwards. Far easier to show them now days. Before the days of the net I used to take people who refused to believe me to the range. Would put a 50# bag of sand on something and shoot it. It would of course just lay there. Then tell them if 50#s of sand does not go flying off how does a 200# man. Many still could not believe what they were seeing. They were so convinced from watching TV and such. Word of mouth over years can be hard to compete with.

 

[Alexx1401]

Yeah, the stainless thing is curious, lots of people taking names at face value.

As for the lube 'compatibility' - It's normally a case of going from type to type. I don't mind that as i prefer the non petroleum based stuff, it's actually a little more effective as well as being kinder on the nose and skin

I have used Breakfree for decades now just because it's easy. Since it cleans and lubes. Only thing different is on all auto's I use grease on parts that move at high speed. A tube of the stuff lasts for so long I usually can't remember where I even bought it by the time it gets low.

 

[Hamilton Felix]

I have seen grease overdone on some guns. I recall a thoroughly greased revolver, to the point where the locking bolt didn't rise into the cylinder notches. But I think a touch of grease on high stress points does make sense.

On one's every day concealed carry piece, one always worries about picking up lint, dust and grit. Seems funny to periodically clean a piece that you have not even fired, but there's a reason. That's where I lean to a dry lube if it will do the job.

 

[Alexx1401]

I have seen grease overdone on some guns. I recall a thoroughly greased revolver, to the point where the locking bolt didn't rise into the cylinder notches. But I think a touch of grease on high stress points does make sense.

On one's every day concealed carry piece, one always worries about picking up lint, dust and grit. Seems funny to periodically clean a piece that you have not even fired, but there's a reason. That's where I lean to a dry lube if it will do the job.

Gun grease like anything can be "if a little is good a lot must be better". I don't use it on my Wheel guns at all. Nothing on them moves at high speed to throw off oil.
I learned the value of grease with machine guns. Parts like the bolt. Lasts far longer than oil will. It came into it's own again as CC autos started to come out made lighter. I have shown a lot of people the only reason they were having trouble was lube. When the poly frame sub compacts started to hit often people were having problems. Pistol would work for a short time then start to hang. Little grease , Objective word here "little", and all of a sudden they were making it through an entire range session.

 

[41mag]

remember those two days of 'non rust' we had earlier this week?

Here's todays weather photo

 

[Jamie6.5]

So I apologize if this is the wrong forum for this but seeing as rust is the bane of all tools I figured this was the best place for it.

So today we went out shooting and it was drizzling (wow Imagine that, rain in Oregon) and It got me to wondering this: So coming from a desert/high desert area rust has never been really a big concern in the past for me. But out here where its raining a good amount of the time and there is still a decent amount of humidity when its not I got to wondering how I should be changing my gun maintenance procedures.
Should I be taking off my hand guards on my AR's to get a light coating of oil on the barrel after they are out at the range in the rain? When I get a pistol are there any places that might sneak up on me with rust ? Would desiccant packs in my gun cases be helpful ? Or am I just being paranoid ?

Any tips would be appreciated, I'm not sure if this is even a good question. But to be honest I'd rather ask a dumb question than wake up to rust spots all over my prized possessions.

Moving from the arid and alkaline South Central and SE portions of the state to the Willamette Valley 25 years ago I learned 3 major things about gun care:
1) All the stuff/lubes I had been warned off of in dusty climate because it trapped grit and accelerated wear, or caused freeze-ups, became invaluable for preventing moisture intrusion that caused corrosion/rust. Silicone and light oil were replaced judiciously with heavier moisture resistant oils and greases.
2) All the stuff I had previously used because it was slippery but didn't attract dust and grit was pretty much worthless in repelling water. Silicone works to some extent, but has to be replenished regularly, and is prone to going away during wipe downs from wet conditions.
3) Humidity has no conscience or preferences for material types. Plastic/steel/aluminum/glass/wood, it doesn't matter. It shows up on one thing consistently,... That "thing" that is colder than the air around it becomes the place where humidity wants to be. Whereupon it promptly turns to water droplets that rust, stain and corrode things.

So, the best way to keep your guns dry and corrosion free, regardless of the amount of lube or preservative, is to keep/store them in a temperature stable environment as much as possible. Preferably one on the warmer end of the spectrum.
I'm convinced it's temp changes/swings that cause more condensation than anything else. Storing them with slightly excessive lube is not a bad thing, but it requires a wipe-down before use, lest dust, carbon etc. accumulation become a problem.

ETA: I also firmly believe in one mantra about gun lube(s), regardless of where one lives,... Stay away from WD-40.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Yup, good post.

Garage is a good place to "get rid" of a gun safe, but it's terrible for the condensation, inside is good for keeping things stable.

 

[Hamilton Felix]

Good points about condensation. Before I got Golden Rods in our two small safes, dessicant packs just were not cutting it. The safes are in an upstairs room that receives very little heat. In the one next to the exterior wall, I saw condensation on guns. A few watts of heat inside the safe is a lifesaver.

 

[Certaindeaf]

That's all said and cute as a button but I have a 1703 1911 Colt with no rust on it. I just pray to the jesus

 

[VancMike]

The more firearms one has, the easier it is to forget that one or two in the back. So I try to remember to check and clean periodically. All the above advice is good.

Not such a big deal for you youngins with those black guns, but I've always stored my nice long arms with the muzzle down. Helps keep any oil from migrating into the stock.

 

[Hamilton Felix]

That's a good point. When it's just metal and synthetic material, you can pretty much douse it and not worry. But some of the metal preserving chemicals we use are not that great for the finish on wood.

There's a field of research: Which gun preservative products ARE harmless to (or even good for) finished wood?

 

[Tony617]

I'm thinking about putting my new gun safe in my garage since I am not sure how much weight the floor can support in my home. I have electrical outlets in my garage so I can put a golden rod in. The safe I am looking at weights over 1300 lbs. The garage is concrete floor so I can bolt the safe down.

 

[Hamilton Felix]

Sounds like a plan, as long as you keep that Golden Rod in it. Thieves may try to cable a safe to their pickup, but that sounds like a big one, and bolted down really helps. I would think that anywhere under shelter will work, as long as it's slightly warmer inside the safe than outside.

 

[VancMike]

That's a good point. When it's just metal and synthetic material, you can pretty much douse it and not worry. But some of the metal preserving chemicals we use are not that great for the finish on wood.

There's a field of research: Which gun preservative products ARE harmless to (or even good for) finished wood?

I know most lubricating oils will soak into wood and eventually soften wood, especially at the junction of the stock and receiver. I have a vintage shotgun that gave me an unwanted education on that issue (I repaired/resolved it, but that's another thread, I'd guess). Silicon-based lubricants should also be eschewed.

 

[Certaindeaf]

Figured this thread was as good as any to toss this into.. plus I miss the OP.
"AVE", 4 minutes long..

 

[Hamilton Felix]

I just bought an aerosol can of Ballistol. My wife, who loves Hoppe's #9, does not like the smell but I can live with it. Looking forward to seeing how well it works.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Yeah, i have the non aerosol spray version, it seems to work well, but it smells really bad.

 

[Flymph]

Yeah, i have the non aerosol spray version, it seems to work well, but it smells really bad.

How are you applying that? I was just having a conversation with my father about it, seems he has the liquid for as well.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

I'm not actually actively using it, I mostly have it for if I end up shooting corrosively primes ammo and anything else I can think of.

I have used it for some household lubrication, but otherwise, I use Slip2000 EWL for my older stuff (and their grease for the double barrel knuckle) and Seal1 for my modern stuff.

However, the hand spray gives a fair amount of control, I'd spray and wipe directly or straight to rag or bore brush/swab and go from there.