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I'll kick this one off.

Biggest lemon I have had, a Lyman Turbo turret press. I never could get to like this one. Handle throw didn't work for me. Press didn't have enough leverage to size a 9mm in an undersize carbide die. I tried to like it, couldn't.

Lyman was a pretty big name in reloading equipment years ago. RCBS tipped Lyman's playhouse into the water, and after that others came into the field. The orange brand isn't innovative or popular much these days. I got a deal on the Lyman press and it didn't work out so I found another home for it.

Something I bought when I first started 35 years ago, an RCBS powder trickler. For me, totally worthless. Won't do anything a simple plastic powder dipper from Lee will do.

On-press priming equipment with single stage presses. Awkward and tedious, you're way ahead of the game by getting a cheap hand priming tool like Lee makes. I've used the Lee Auto Prime tools for decades, now the Lee Auto Bench Prime. Somewhere along the line, I bought an RCBS hand priming tool because it took shell holders that weren't made for the Lee (which takes its own design). The RCBS cost quite a bit more than the Lee and was more awkward and cumbersome to use. It mostly still sits in the box it came in; I don't think I've touched it in years.

It took me a while to decide how best (for me) to trim cases. My first tool for this was a Pacific trimmer, made by Hornady using old Pacific tooling after they bought the latter company. I guess it served its purpose while I was using it, but there are better ways to trim than using those little mini-lathes.

Oh, I can't forget this one. The RCBS Little Dandy power measure. It takes steel rotors with pre-set cavities drilled into them. I don't know how many different rotors there are, about 30 I think. You use a chart to determine which number rotor drops a given amount of powder. Theoretically, you could use multiple rotors and do multiple passes in powder dropping to get a given charge of your choice. Which is some trouble considering the change from one rotor to another. The cost per rotor is relatively high. If you reload a lot of different cartridges and bullet weights, you can have a lot of money in rotors. If you are a target shooter who shoots one load and only one load, might make more sense.

I got the Little Dandy measure as part of a package deal of used stuff. It came with two rotors; I was tempted by it, so bought several more rotors. My use of it has been very scanty. The powder chart for these is updated once in a great while, but is always out of date because new powders come along (you can through your own experimentation determine correct rotors for charge weights of your powder of choice). Now my Little Dandy sits, unused and unwanted. This is one item of reloading gear that I happen to know is close to wasted money. Resale value is very low. Which says a lot about its utility.
 
Good thread. I'll be interested to hear what others have to say.

I'd have to say for me, steel dies for straight walled pistol cartridges. One I went carbide, I never looked back!
 
I too had a lyman turret press with far insufficient leverage. It was my first press and loading 9mm and 40s&w was fine. I remember the first time I put a 556 case in to be sized I thought my bench was gonna tip over from pushing the handle so hard. And it was very well lubed!
 
RCBS case trimmer. It pained my back to trim a lot of rifle cases. Replaced it with a Lyman power case trimmer. It's the greatest!
Hornady case spray lube. Darn cans plug up all the time.:(
 
RCBS trimmer

Not that it was a bad design, my hands couldn't take the constant turning. Even with drill attached, it wasn't enjoyable. Replaced it with the Frankford and have been happy since.
 
RCBS trimmer. I'll buy new brass before I use that machine again.

Very briefly (Less than 24 hours) owned an RCBS hand priming tool. Instructions say you need to lube with oil ever few hundred primers. Seeing how primers and oil don't get along, I returned it and bought another make & model.
 
Not that it was a bad design, my hands couldn't take the constant turning. Even with drill attached, it wasn't enjoyable. Replaced it with the Frankford and have been happy since

This was my issue with the Pacific/Hornady hand crank trimmer. The knob on the handle became painful after while; I had to cut a short length of rubber hose to slip over it. That didn't relieve the handle-turning situation. I've mentioned the following before. It probably isn't the best system for trimming, but I adopted the simple Lee collet trimmer. I chuck the lock stud (with shell holder) into a DeWalt cordless drill which is lying on its side on the bench. I trim with my right hand, hold the trigger of the DeWalt with my left. Then I chamfer and deburr with the little RCBS "rocket ship" deburring tool while the case is still in the shell holder. The repetitive motion inherent to this process starts to be felt after lengthy sessions. What I'd like to get is something with a three way cutter. That is, trims, chamfers and deburrs all in one go. They're out there, I just haven't gone the distance to get something like that. Yet.
 
I'd have to say for me, steel dies for straight walled pistol cartridges. Once I went carbide, I never looked back!

I did the same thing initially. Then I discovered that some carbide pistol dies leave a ridge or ring in the web of the case. Especially any case that has some taper to it, with 9mm Luger being the most prominent example. Thickness of case material from brand to brand seems to matter in this issue as well. So then I had to backtrack and re-purchase steel dies for those occasions when I wanted to use them. So now I commonly have at least one set of each. Since different brands sometimes have different features, it isn't unusual for me to have two or three die sets for a given cartridge and I have been known to mix brands while working with that cartridge.

I think with the passage of time, the manufacturers are getting better at making carbide (and titanium nitride) rings in sizing dies that fit cases better.
 
RCBS trimmer

Not that it was a bad design, my hands couldn't take the constant turning. Even with drill attached, it wasn't enjoyable. Replaced it with the Frankford and have been happy since.
I'll agree. That frankford arsenal prep center really helps a lot. I was just using mine a little bit ago...

I guess I don't have much to complain about, except for the RCBS powder tricker like someone else mentioned. It came in the reloading kit I bought, I used it for years, but knew I wanted something better. Eventually I replaced it with a home made heavy brass trickler that is much more stable and works like a dream... Other than that, not much else to complain about.... Just keep things simple and buy good quality stuff that will last a lifetime and you'll be just fine..
 
Some people like a particular tool while others don't. If RCBS tools were as bad as some say, then they'd be out of business! Fortunately, they aren't!!!:):):)
 
...the RCBS powder tricker....

I hated how mine skittered around too, it's far to light. So I drilled a couple of small holes near the bottom of the base and inserted a stiff wire (coat hanger I think). Then I turned it upside down and filled the lower cavity with lead poured right out of my casting pot.

The wire holds the lead in place, it's worked since the '70s.
 
i started out with an RCBS JR2. i still have it. i dont like the on press priming system. i hand prime for rifle bigger than 5.56... actually, most of my reloading from 5.56, 300blk and ALL of my pistol is done on my progressive press...its priming system works well. anything larger that requires 'more' attention to detail gets loaded on my single stage(6.5grendel,30-30, 308,30-06,300wm.
 
I'll kick this one off.



Oh, I can't forget this one. The RCBS Little Dandy power measure. It takes steel rotors with pre-set cavities drilled into them. I don't know how many different rotors there are, about 30 I think. You use a chart to determine which number rotor drops a given amount of powder. Theoretically, you could use multiple rotors and do multiple passes in powder dropping to get a given charge of your choice. Which is some trouble considering the change from one rotor to another. The cost per rotor is relatively high. If you reload a lot of different cartridges and bullet weights, you can have a lot of money in rotors. If you are a target shooter who shoots one load and only one load, might make more sense.

I got the Little Dandy measure as part of a package deal of used stuff. It came with two rotors; I was tempted by it, so bought several more rotors. My use of it has been very scanty. The powder chart for these is updated once in a great while, but is always out of date because new powders come along (you can through your own experimentation determine correct rotors for charge weights of your powder of choice). Now my Little Dandy sits, unused and unwanted. This is one item of reloading gear that I happen to know is close to wasted money. Resale value is very low. Which says a lot about its utility.

I like the Little Dandy, look at the powder -rotor chart and pick the next bigger one and am set more often than not. I've found I can charge 100 cases with the Little Dandy in less time than it takes to adjust my other measures.
RCBS Rotor Set2.JPG
There are 28 rotors, numbers 1-26, and 0 as well as 00.
 
RCBS trimmer. I'll buy new brass before I use that machine again.

Very briefly (Less than 24 hours) owned an RCBS hand priming tool. Instructions say you need to lube with oil ever few hundred primers. Seeing how primers and oil don't get along, I returned it and bought another make & model.

I have a RCBS hand primer that I use for everything. I didn't know you were supposed to lube them.
 
I hated how mine skittered around too, it's far to light. So I drilled a couple of small holes near the bottom of the base and inserted a stiff wire (coat hanger I think). Then I turned it upside down and filled the lower cavity with lead poured right out of my casting pot.

The wire holds the lead in place, it's worked since the '70s.

I'm too cheap for those. I use an index card with a fold down the center. If the charge is too heavy, I scoop a little out. If the charge is too light, I knock a couple of granules in with my tweezers.
 
I like the Little Dandy, look at the powder -rotor chart and pick the next bigger one and am set more often than not. I've found I can charge 100 cases with the Little Dandy in less time than it takes to adjust my other measures.

I like my Lil' Dandy too, especially for small pistol charges. I wish the rotors were not so expensive, but then I've only purchased the ones I need for my loads and I do watch for them used.

I record the rotor number with my load data and have found that I can "double" for some loads. For example I have a .38 Special load that uses Rotor #8 and a .44 Mag load that uses Rotor #8 dumped twice. That way I don't need to have a separate rotor and I don't need to switch rotors in the middle of charging cases (which would be a real mess).

I visually check each case with a flashlight for powder level before seating bullets. I can charge a case every 3 seconds once they are all standing upright in a loading block.
 

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