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my wife is getting me a set of 40 sw dies for christmas. I am pretty excited about it. I have only reloaded for my rifles. I have done some research on diffrent loads for this round. just wanted some feed back from my friends here. I already have about a thousand rounds of brass that I saved. so short of bullets , powder, and primers I will be ready. I all ready know about the buldge factor, Just wondering about any tips, or favorite loads , Thanks
 
Read your loading manual(s). Pick a low to mid power lload and build a few to check function. Learn what it takes to operate your action for a minimum. Go up from there and find a good shooting load for you. Some bbls don't like lead, thinking Glocks, all like jacketed. Plated often ends up inside your bbl, see what your pistol "likes".
 
One thing to watch for in 40 S&W, especially if you use "Range Brass" is to look for a "muffin top" bulge near the case head. A standard sizing die won't remove this and it can cause the slide to not go fully into battery on some pistols.

There are "Bulge Buster" dies that do a great job from Lee and others. They use a ram to push the case through the die from the bottom which forms the case to a uniform dimension from base to mouth. '40's, 10mm's, and .45acp can all have this depending on the pistol they've been fired in original.
 
thanks for all the great advice. Not that there is anything wrong with range brass. I usaly try to stick with my own brass. I will be geting a bulge buster die. I have a G 23. so that is a definate need. I have been thinking about getting a after market barrel to. that way I can try loading cast. Man this Is a addictive Hobby.
 
I really like Power Pistol for my .40 S&W. Maintains velocity, tightens the groups, less felt recoil. Some seem to hate it as it has a rap for lots of muzzle flash. I have not noticed that problem. But then I have not shot at night with it.

Get a case gage. I used to size all the way through with a bulge blaster, but find it is usually not needed. You can pick out the ones that do by sight. Good luck and enjoy.
 
Lots of graet responses thanks guys, I dont remember the oal for 40 sw of the top of my hesd. but i think its around 1.3 or some thing like that. olydemon that is a very good point. but I would hope those that do reload would look that info up be fore the first round is made. but then again everyone doesnt operate with the same level of safety. I for one am safe to a extreme, I dont want to get hurt or hurt anyone else via a mistake. Not to mention I cant aford to replace my hand guns. Take care
 
Lots of graet responses thanks guys, I dont remember the oal for 40 sw of the top of my hesd. but i think its around 1.3 or some thing like that. olydemon that is a very good point. but I would hope those that do reload would look that info up be fore the first round is made. but then again everyone doesnt operate with the same level of safety. I for one am safe to a extreme, I dont want to get hurt or hurt anyone else via a mistake. Not to mention I cant aford to replace my hand guns. Take care


The thing I have recently learned is that OAL varries alot through the different books and manuals. Also, Depending on the gun one OAL might work fine one might not. For example, my Kimber eats round nose just fine at OAL 1.25-1.265, but hornady 185gr XTP stuck at the OAL 1.225 as listed in the hornady book. So I had to load at 1.20 to keep the bullet from sticking in the barrel fit test. This meant taking the hornady data and adjusting the formula back. I dropped back a full grain and went up from there.
 
OAL's will vary from bullet to bullet. This measurement has two purposes. First is safety and is specified as a minimum in most books where a specific bullet is used so there is a minimum space for the powder charge. Too little space and too high a pressure might be achieved, causing the wrong end of the cartridge to become a flying projectile. The second is to insure the round won't jamb on the beginning of the rifling before the case is fully chambered causing the slide to not go into battery. In a revolver the max OAL is specified to make sure the rounds aren't too long to keep the cylinder from rotating.

Unless you are using the EXACT BULLET that the load was developed for, and are using a different brand or configuration, the book OAL is rendered somewhat meaningless. I load the longest OAL that will reliably cycle through my firearms when loading for pistols. For rifles the max length is determined more by accuracy and is a whole different story.
 
180gr berry's flat point, 5.4gr WSF 1.125"

That is my pet load. Soft shooting definitely not full power, and really accurate out of my G22 and G23. I tried AA#7 and i found that it was a super dirty powder, although i might have been loading it too light for complete burn. I have never bothered with a bulgebuster. A lot of reading on other reloading forums chalks the bulgebuster up to gimmick items. The way i figure it the less work you put into a case the longer it will last. And i have never had a problem with my bulged cases running thru RCBS carbide dies then back into my gun.
 
The thing I have recently learned is that OAL varries alot through the different books and manuals. Also, Depending on the gun one OAL might work fine one might not. For example, my Kimber eats round nose just fine at OAL 1.25-1.265, but hornady 185gr XTP stuck at the OAL 1.225 as listed in the hornady book. So I had to load at 1.20 to keep the bullet from sticking in the barrel fit test. This meant taking the hornady data and adjusting the formula back. I dropped back a full grain and went up from there.

I could be wrong but doesn't the hornady book say 1.125-1.135? I know for sure Winchester says 1.125" for 200gr-135gr and 1.120" for 120gr.
 
I never understand why people give load data without OAL? I'm very new to reloading 9mm and .45acp, but I do know not to take a formula from a forum, let alone one without an OAL.
An OAL is also a function of the bullet lenght and would also require to provide the exact bullet mfg and model. After all, the load is only a starting point, a general guideline. Any reloader knows he/she will have to do his/her homework, check the reloading manuals, verify if the load is safe for his/her chosen reloading components and firearm.
 
I could be wrong but doesn't the hornady book say 1.125-1.135? I know for sure Winchester says 1.125" for 200gr-135gr and 1.120" for 120gr.


For the Hornady 185gr XTP their most current book shows OAL: 1.225". I dont own the book, but have a clear photo of it on my phone that I reference. Maybe they changed the data from an older edition?
 
Here's my 2 cents:

I shoot lead bullets...either 170g LFPs from MBC, or 180g LRNFPs from Dardas Bullets.

I've used the following powders: Unique, Bulls-eye, W231, and Power Pistol...I've settled on Power Pistol for consistency and its clean-burning characteristics when loaded above mid-range loads.

As far as bulge-busting, I've tried the EGW-"U" die, Redding's GR-X die and a CasePro 100. The EGW die worked but undersizes the case and causes a noticeable bulge when the bullet is seated. The GR-X die works great, but is about $70. The CasePro works best, but costs $650. I use my Case-Pro for all my 9mm, .40/.357Sig, and .45ACP brass. If you decide NOT to correct the base bulge, expect occasional mis-feeding and extraction issues on most autoloaders...a case gage is helpful in detecting bulged cases that may not be visually identified beforehand. IMO, correcting the bulge is just part of the cost of producing reliable .40S&W reloads. It's also a valid reason to pick a different caliber for your favorite pistol. I'm geared up for it and I also love .357Sig and the ability to simply exchange barrels, so I has 357Sig barrels for all my .40S&W pistols...and it's rare to find someone who can afford to shoot a lot of 357Sig without reloading....but I digress.

OALs are similar to 9mm (approx 1.125 for FMJ) because the cartridge was designed to be that way (in fact, many 9mm magazines work fine with .40S&W ammo, the only difference being capacity and the exact shape of the spring follower). Don't go under the min. OAL for a given load or rapid jumps in pressure can occur, especially in this cartridge.

As far as dies, I prefer Redding Ti Carbide sizing dies because of the mirror finish they produce, and Hornady seating dies because of the extended seating sleeve that improves the ease and straight seating of the bullet as well as the gasketed seating stem that makes minute adjustments easy. I also prefer a separate taper crimp die because I use lead bullets, but they are not really required for jacketed/plated bullets.
 
For the Hornady 185gr XTP their most current book shows OAL: 1.225". I dont own the book, but have a clear photo of it on my phone that I reference. Maybe they changed the data from an older edition?

OK, I'm working with the 7th edition. the newest is the 8th.

And FWIW i haven't have a single Failure to load or Failure to extract/eject in any of the 3000+ rounds i have loaded and fired in the G22 or G23.

@XSubSailor
I too love the 357sig. Just a $100 barrel and you're off to the races with the sig.
 
I'm not sure what's meant by bulge busting - someone mentioned at the top and some at the bottom. I'm familiar only with the bottom bulge. The Lee bullet seating die has a carbide ring that goes clear to the base and will take out any bulges and make the casing round all the way down.

Glocks have a micro-groove barrel and I hate shooting lead bullets in them. I used to cast, and if I was going to shoot lead in one of my Glocks I'd buy an aftermarket barrel like a Lone Wolf that had regular lands and grooves.

I know. Some people are going to tell me they've been shooting lead bullets just fine in a stock Glock. It still isn't a good idea.
 
My youngest son who is 8 yrs. old is my little loading buddy, He gets to run all my rifle cases through the de prime and cleaning stages. I think He is more excited about reloading for my glock than I am. I might haft to get a 357 sig barrel. but one step at a time.
 

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