Polymer 80 glock lemons

[StacattoP]

Do it right the first time watch Marinegunbuilder!

Actually the first frame that I messed up was because of marine gun builder he use a Dremel in his video to drill a perfectly straight holes try the same thing and boogered it up bad

 

[TTSX]

Or you could just figure out for yourself how to fix it right. You'll learn a lot more without having your hand held

 

[Knebel]

I actually saw what you are saying (just finished one). For me it was nothing that a whack with a hammer couldnt solve to get the pin through.

 

[DirectDrive]

There is a giant thread on AR15.com on building the Polymer 80
Lots of tips and tricks.

I'm in it and here's one of my tricks to keep your drill bit perpendicular with the Polymer 80 jig.
It's a "jig on a jig" and it works.
Make the legs long enough to span across the entire Polymer 80 jig.
Glue the drill jig up as true and as square as you can the night before.

The drill bit is in a random location to show the technique.

Another good trick is to make up "slave pins"
A slave pin is used to align parts out in front of the actual pin.
With Polymer 80 you are working with 3mm and 4mm holes and drill bits.
When you are done drilling your holes to the best of your ability, make slave pins out of your two drill bits that came with the kit.

To do this you chuck up a drill bit in your drill motor and spin it against a fill or Dremel cutting wheel.
Cut off the spiral portion of the bit making the pin as long as possible.
Form a point as you run this "poor man's lathe".

Assemble your lower and if you have any trouble with pin alignment (metal in the way as mentioned above) put oil on the slave pin and tap it in like you would the normal pin.
Get the slave pin slightly below the surface of the lower and then drive the actual pin behind the slave pin.
The actual pin will "chase" the slave pin out the other side while it keeps everything aligned for the actual pin.

I couldn't get my pins through without the slave pins.
No extra over-drilling, no wallowed out pin holes just nice, clean holes with tight pins.
If you do the "over-drilling" as mentioned in this thread, you are risking having trouble with "pin walking".
This is where pins back out during firing because of loose fitting pins.

When I got the pistol put together, I could barely rack the slide.
Polymer 80 said to keep the slide dry and rack it repeatedly until is loosed up.
Terrible advice from Polymer 80.
The answer was to use an engine builder's break-in lube....a light grease used by automotive engine builders.
Microlon and Lubriplate #105 are two good ones. I used Microlon.


LWD - Lone Wolf Distributors sells small tubes of Microlon.

 

[arrowshooter]

Im sorry but are you sure you can build a firearm if you cant fix "a tiny bit of metal in the way that prevents the pin from going through"?

Hmmmm let me see..........I didn't mention the "tiny piece of metal" rail insert, but I did say the "trigger housing" which sits inside of the "tiny piece of metal" rail insert. With the PF45 you need to grind away part of the trigger housing on the left side so that it sits inside the PF45 frame correctly per Marinegunbuilder's video.

 

[DirectDrive]

Hmmmm let me see..........I didn't mention the "tiny piece of metal" rail insert, but I did say the "trigger housing" which sits inside of the "tiny piece of metal" rail insert. With the PF45 you need to grind away part of the trigger housing on the left side so that it sits inside the PF45 frame correctly per Marinegunbuilder's video.

I haven't built the large frame yet, but I've seen where builders used the wrong Trigger Mechanism Housing and it was a giant No-Go. (standard frame - short frame mixup)
When I looked into it you need to be using the TMH for a G20SF/G21SF (short frame) which is Glock part number 5406.

The Polymer 80 large frame is based on the Glock Gen 3 SF (short frame). Short Frame means shorter reach from backstrap to face of trigger. Glock also had a standard reach frame which was longer and didn't fit some people.

The correct TMH should contain ejector #8196-2. These are all marked, but you might have to pull out the ejector to read it.
The ejectors pull straight out of the TMH.

 

[arrowshooter]

Correct. Part number 5406 (5357) with the 8196-2 ejector.

 

[DirectDrive]

Correct. Part number 5406 (5357) with the 8196-2 ejector.

What is (5357) ?

 

[arrowshooter]

5357 is the Original Glock part number and is the number molded into the revised part number 5406.

 

[DirectDrive]

5357 is the Original Glock part number and is the number molded into the revised part number 5406.

I have various TMH's and even within the same lot they will have different numbers cast in.
Those numbers are mold numbers and are 5 digits and don't correspond to anything.

 

[Knebel]

I bought a random parts kit for a g17...

 

[DirectDrive]

Pro Tip for anyone with a Glock or Polymer 80 9mm double-stack that has ejection issues...
Sometimes a simple ejector change will fix this.
There are 3 9mm ejectors..
Gen 3 - #336
Gen 4 - #30274
Gen 5 (some) - #47021

In my experience the #47021 is the best.
To get it you order TMH #47208 (Trigger Mechanism Housing)
1) Pull out the #47021 ejector (the Glock ejector pulls straight out of the TMH)
2) nstall the new ejector in your TMH
You must use your original TMH

If you are dyslexic, use caution when working with these part numbers !

 

[DirectDrive]

I bought a random parts kit for a g17...

Good luck with the generic parts kit.
For best results use Genuine Glock parts for the small parts kits.
And yes, it's an Easter Egg Hunt to find the genuine parts.

 

[arrowshooter]

I have also found that OEM Glock parts is the best way to go for me. I tried a Lone Wolf trigger group in a PF940/G17 build and it would not hold the rest, but the OEM Glock TG was perfect.

Maybe this will help explain the PF45 TMH issue:

P80 PF45 Trigger Housing Fix

Polymer 80 PF45 Trigger Housing Mechanism problems are wide spread in our build community. This Marine Gun Builder Blog Exclusive video will illustrate how to permanently resolve the issue and get your PF45 spitting freedom down range PRONTO! Below is a video tutorial that illustrates how to do...

www.marinegunbuilder.com

When I "adjusted" the first two it would leave the pin hole in the trigger housing rearward into the rail/frame pin hole, and when the pin was inserted the front of the TMH would rotate up. I have the proper fix/"grind" worked out, but am now waiting for TMH's to come back in stock that are not $50.

 

[Pandaz3]

I almost bought a Polymer 80 kit, but getting all the parts and adding it up, why not just buy a new Glock? The 'Ghost' part of the build is not a draw to me, I thought I might be able to get better components like a AR build. No you just pay a price for ill fitting parts. I have a order in for a Gen 5 G-22 now. It will all work to 'Perfection'. Plus trying to find '40' parts is hard too. I need another 'nine' like I need a extra hole in my head.

 

[SectionChief]

I almost bought a Polymer 80 kit, but getting all the parts and adding it up, why not just buy a new Glock? The 'Ghost' part of the build is not a draw to me, I thought I might be able to get better components like a AR build. No you just pay a price for ill fitting parts. I have a order in for a Gen 5 G-22 now. It will all work to 'Perfection'. Plus trying to find '40' parts is hard too. I need another 'nine' like I need a extra hole in my head.

Not concerned with or interested in having an unserialized (Ghost) gun so I haven't built any 80% lower, however I have bought many Polymer80 100% (serialized) frames and built fully functioning pistols with the exact parts I want. The 18 degree grip angle Polymer80 frames are way better for me ergonomically than 22 degree grip angle Glock frames.

In my P80 100% (serialized) assembly, I install Glock OEM parts as much as possible but the things that are not Glock OEM where likely going to be changed out anyway if I bought a stock Glock (i.e. Apex Trigger, Faxon Threaded barrel, Jagerwerks Optic Cut Slide, Dawson Precision Suppressor Height Sights, 3.5# connector, etc.). When I do it this way I get exactly what I want and not a bunch of removed unused parts, that we all have boxes of.

 

[arrowshooter]

"Ghost" is not the draw for me either, I just like to build stuff from a pile of parts. It's like rebuilding an engine and having it start up with the first turn of the key, HEAVEN!

 

[Certaindeaf]

"Ghost" is not the draw for me either, I just like to build stuff from a pile of parts. It's like rebuilding an engine and having it start up with the first turn of the key, HEAVEN!

Is it building something if you only have to drill a hole?

 

[Pandaz3]

I was unaware of the serialized parts that puts a new spin on it for me. I have assembled many AR's with my own chosen components and that was the hope for a new Polymer 80 build. I will look again.

 

[Pandaz3]

Is it building something if you only have to drill a hole?

No but assembling something is still called a build in the AR world and I do have Poly and Aluminum raw receiver blanks for AR's but there you have to hog out the fire control cavities so more than these handgun dealios.