JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
Yeah, i hate to be the bubblegum here, but as @No_Regerts said, get that thing *cleaned*

The pic you show of the frame, is filthy! and honestly, the slide looks like it could be hiding all sorts of crap in there.

When you said you oiled it, do you mean you just added oil? Any second hand gun you have problems with, you need to actually clean it out, *then* you can oil it.

Had a similar problem with my Sisters used P226 - same/similar problems, only looked about as dirty as your pics, but once it was fully cleaned out, not using oil, then oiled properly, it ran fine.

Repeatedly adding oil on top of carbon/crap will result in this.
 
The gun should come configured from CZ as decocker and the picture you showed is with the manual safety installed. So the guy did swap them out likely.
Ditto on the cleaning as others have mentioned as it looks very dirty to me also however if this has in fact been altered it is possible it was done incorrectly.
Reason I mention this is a couple years ago I was looking into modifying my CZ 75 BD to a 'B' style with a safety and after researching it discovered its NOT just a matter of swapping some parts. While certain changes can be made to the CZs if not done correctly it can result in functioning problems. I dropped the idea completely.
 
Also in the pic of you holding the frame the lower right corner area looks like it is 'chewed' up with missing material from the frame. Is this the case or just a very dirty area or poor pic quality?
The reason I ask is this is an area where attempts can be made to try to alter or eliminate the the firing pin safety and again if not done properly can permanently damage the gun.
 
Guys, the P07 Duty uses the same Omega system as the current model. Going from decocker to safety is the easy swap, take out the lever and spring, slide the safety lever in its place. Not sure you could screw it up if you tried :rolleyes:. Agree about dirty, though, amazing what a bath can do.

I would also suggest pulling the firing pin, both to inspect it, and to make sure everything is squeaky clean in there. Take a close look at the FP retaining pin, too. I got a used Duty about a month ago, switched it from safety to decocker, only have a few hundred rounds through it so far, but it's been flawless, and the trigger is excellent. Good luck getting yours sorted, they're outstanding pistols.

Dave
 
All great suggestions. I'd also degrease the whole thing in case its gooped up and the firing pin is being inhibited. The pencil test mentioned before can help detect that. Another possibility is a weak hammer spring. Maybe the firing pin hole or the pin itself has a burr?

My own question is whether the cartridges are actually fully chambering properly as it does look dirty.

That thing looks like the underside of the old seepy 307ci Chevy motor in my '69 3/4 ton pick-up! What kind of person sells a gun to someone that's that dirty? :confused: Name him so we can razz him some! :)

Get a can of Brake-Clean and shoot it in there. Do you have access to a compressor? Blast it with air after, and then oil.
 
Sheesh, if you insist on using brake clean, please use non chlorinated, otherwise it'll start eating the metal structure.

Anyway, clean clean clean :)
 
Sheesh, if you insist on using brake clean, please use non chlorinated, otherwise it'll start eating the metal structure.

Tell me about this ^^? I've used it a time or two on my stainless 1911. It not a regular thing I've done. Iv also used WD40 as a solvent, then used the compressor to blow it out good. Hesitant to use carb cleaner for fear it would attack plastics. Poly coating on CZ metal?
 
A few more questions I forgot to ask last night.

Was the hammer dropping on an empty chamber, in other words did the gun short stroke and not chamber a new round? Or was it dropping on live rounds that were not going bang?

Do you have any pictures of the rounds that did not fire? Are there good primer strikes? Light primer strikes? If you push the firing pin safety by hand and then the firing pin, does it pass through the hole in the slide properly?

I totally forgot the pencil test like prior mentioned. This is a great way to test for firing pin to primer detonation strength.
 
Tell me about this ^^? I've used it a time or two on my stainless 1911. It not a regular thing I've done. Iv also used WD40 as a solvent, then used the compressor to blow it out good. Hesitant to use carb cleaner for fear it would attack plastics. Poly coating on CZ metal?
Bad Mike, you must use at least a $50 an ounce gun cleaner specifically for tactical gun tactics operations cleaning.
 
Bad Mike, you must use at least a $50 an ounce gun cleaner specifically for tactical gun tactics operations cleaning.

Fat Chance! :D I was just reading a long thread on The Firing Line re: Brake Clean. Consensus there would say no harm as long you're not spraying on, say, you plastic stocked old .22 rim fire rifle. Or other plastics. And as dirty as the OPs gun looks?
 
Funny Reno ;)

@Mikej , i just tried to find the reference for you, but i don't have time and can't find it at the moment. Short version, only ever use non chlorinated on your gun metals.
I wouldn't trust *any* auto parts cleaner on any plastics, PERIOD.

Personally, i like my $50/oz cleaner, it's the boutique in me :p Seriously though, i do like MPro7 cleaner, it doesn't eat my hands, it doesn't cost too much, it leaves a layer to stop flash rusting and the chemicals won't try and simulate mustard gas.
 
Fat Chance! :D I was just reading a long thread on The Firing Line re: Brake Clean. Consensus there would say no harm as long you're not spraying on, say, you plastic stocked old .22 rim fire rifle. Or other plastics. And as dirty as the OPs gun looks?
No way, you mean products design to keep a machine as complex as an vehicle with tons of moving parts and various metals, is good enough for a moderately complex machine with a lot less moving parts primarily made of the same metals?;)

Anyways I've derailed enough here.
 
Well I'm sure looking forward to seeing if a good cleaning of the slide, inside and out, cures the problem.
 
Sounds like you will likely be able to get it figured out, with lots of good suggestions provided here. But if not, give CZ a call. They have been helpful when I have reached out to them, and taken good care of me if there was an issue I couldn't address myself.
 
My question is - who doesn't tear apart a used firearm they acquired and clean it before shooting it. To me this is a safety issue. This is the height of laziness. Unless I know the person well it is well worth my time to examine it well before i take it shooting.
 

Similar threads

  • Locked
Replies
0
Views
355
  • Locked
Replies
3
Views
398
  • Locked
Replies
0
Views
361
Replies
7
Views
867

Upcoming Events

Centralia Gun Show
Centralia, WA
Klamath Falls gun show
Klamath Falls, OR
Oregon Arms Collectors April 2024 Gun Show
Portland, OR
Albany Gun Show
Albany, OR

New Resource Reviews

New Classified Ads

Back Top