Oops! Too much blue loctite.

[teflon6string]

Yeah, I overdid it.

I put too much Loctite 242 Threadlocker on a screw holding a loose front sight on my pistol. It's the blue Loctite we're supposed to be able to work with again later. Right?

Not so much. Went to replace the sight tonight and didn't expect to rip the tips off 2 screwdrivers. The screw remains defiantly frozen where I put it 2 weeks ago. I'm afraid to try more and booger it up.

Heat? Solvent? Acetone? Face paint, chanting in tongues, dancing around a fire and rattling chicken bones?

Wow!

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[Velzey]

Heat gun a few inches away to 425 or 450 degrees and it will come right off!

 

[MountainBear]

Even a hair dryer MIGHT do it if you don't have a heat gun. Remember, a little dab will do ya...

 

[Sgt Nambu]

Fireing till the barrel heats up sounds like more fun to me! Only takes a little dot of the loctite!

 

[G1GRANDEUR]

use soldering iron to heat it up.

 

[Stomper]

You can use a small butane torch to gradually heat the piece up until you can turn the screw, or see the lock-tite liquify/bubble up from the joint.

I used this method on my semi-auto Weatherby shotgun to remove the mag-tube from the receiver that used thread locker from the factory. Go slow and apply just enough heat to get it moveable and not discolor the finish. (if that's an issue)

 

[Simonpie]

I agree on the heat. I don't believe the quantity of loctite is an issue. Once the gaps in the threads are filled, adding more doesn't do anything.

 

[Norwestr55]

use soldering iron to heat it up.

This, right on the head of the screw.

 

[MountainBear]

I agree on the heat. I don't believe the quantity of loctite is an issue. Once the gaps in the threads are filled, adding more doesn't do anything.

A small amount of loctite will fill a few threads along the length of the screw (which will do what it's supposed to do), versus a larger amount which will fill ALL the engaged threads along the length of the screw (which will do more than it's supposed to do)...

Friction is a bubblegum...

 

[Medic!]

Instructions on the container? For disassembly, shear with standard hand tools and remove with methylene chloride. In rare instances where hand tools do not work because of excessive engagement length, apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 482°F (250°C). Disassemble while hot.

 

[teflon6string]

Instructions on the container? For disassembly, shear with standard hand tools and remove with methylene chloride. In rare instances where hand tools do not work because of excessive engagement length, apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 482°F (250°C). Disassemble while hot.

No instructions for removal, only for applying it. I've used this same tube of loctite on countless sights, scopes, rails, etc., and it never stuck like this.

Reading what's readily available online about methylene chloride, I'd probably need a medic if I wasn't careful with a filter mask and gloves. Never did see what brand of product I might buy if I wanted to get some. Approaching 60 fast, I'm really sorry now for all the 100's of projects I did when I was young and indestructable (stupid), breathing paint, solvents, stripper fumes, exhaust, red-lead, and undoubtedly asbestos dust from brakes, tile deck tearouts and overhauls on Navy ships.

Will start with the pistol inverted in a soft vise and heat the screw with my mega-watt solder gun. Wish me luck, I'm going in...

 

[Redcap]

No such thing as too much loctite.

 

[stmcelroy]

Recommended For

Use on metal fasteners 1/4' (6 mm) to 3/4' (19 mm) in diameter such as bolts on small engines, swing sets and furniture

The screws we're using this on is so small I'd expect that has something to do with being less than easy to remove.

 

[Silver Hand]

No offense but, Your tools are crap. Go buy a better screw driver. Blue lock tight leaves Harley parts along the road side.
It is not the bond you are struggling with except for the excessive torque that was applied during the initial installation of the parts. You need a real bit to get it apart, Try Snap-On Professional tools and you might learn something. A soldering iron works well on red lock tight,. You over tightened the threads so much they are about to strip, the same screwdriver you used is work softened and is now useless. Professional tools make all the difference.
- Silver Hand

 

[Silver Hand]

use soldering iron to heat it up.

BLUE ?

Silver Hand

 

[teflon6string]

BLUE ?

Silver Hand

Yup, blue.

What a relief. Heat was the ticket (and gentle patience).

I turned the pistol upside down and applied a LOT of heat with a high-watt soldering gun (wishing that I could see melted loctite dribbling out but knowing I wouldn't). Got it nice and hot, then backed out the stubburn screw, simultaneously twisting and tapping with a light hammer.

I'm just glad the screw (which was also starting to shred a bit) was stronger than my cheapass screwdrivers, which I'll replace this afternoon for a small fraction of what I'd pay a gunsmith to dig out a boogered screwhead.

I've used blue loctite successfully on guns, motorcycles and machinery forever. Point well taken about the amount. I guess I don't need much on tiny parts. More like a dot.

Thanks for the useful advice fellers!

 

[mjbskwim]

Touch the screw to the locktite not apply the locktite to the screw.

I had a rear sight screw that wouldn't come out but I had just mounted the scope and didn't want to apply heat with a small torch. So I used my impact driver and a small hammer. Borsforth steel barrel don't ya know.
It came out perfect.
I will relay the solder gun trick to my buddy too.
Thanks for the tips

 

[Velzey]

I deal with stuck screws all the time (blue locktite) on fine threads. Its the locktite and NOT the excessive torque. Not a single Snap On screwdriver in my professional gunsmith shop! Snap On doesnt make screwdrivers for gun related work. Or they didnt when I was looking!!

 

[jbett98]

Guns have hollow ground screw heads. The slots are square not tapered like common household screws.
Brownell's sells a fairly inexpensive screwdriver set that fits the most common firearm screw heads.
Nothing worse then seeing a nice firearm all buggered up with the wrong tool.

 

[Silver Hand]

I deal with stuck screws all the time (blue locktite) on fine threads. Its the locktite and NOT the excessive torque. Not a single Snap On screwdriver in my professional gunsmith shop! Snap On doesn't make screwdrivers for gun related work. Or they didn't when I was looking!!

I agree using Snap-on in general was a poor example in this case, Although I have been fitting screw drivers to firearms since the 1960s, they were - every one, a quality tool to begin with and many dozens have been custom fitted for there use. Heat is required on the firearms I have serviced with red locktite. I personally have not had a problem in general with any disassembly using blue locktite, at least that I can remember but my memory is not what it once was. The fact heat helped as it does in many cases {involving stuck threads} even where no adhesive was applied is a common solution. Professional quality tools require much less effort in all cases.
Also, I was working in a gun shop and built from parts my first custom double barrel 12 gauge in 1967. A shop in NY owned by Doc Bart.
I was later told 'but have never confirmed' he was credited for shooting the first Bic pen with a rifle through a pine board and writing the word BIC, Wile making the statement wrights first time every time.
It was the first successful grease pen [ball point] ever accepted in the USA.
Silver Hand