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If the metal was properly blued there should be no smell left on the part once you rinse it off. The actual oxide layer has no smell, and that should be all that is left once the bluing process is complete (hot or cold bluing). The bluing agent really needs to be completely removed once the process is done, or else you will be left with some very undesirable extra oxidation over time. This could even potentially ruin the piece if there is enough agent residue left over. If the metal part still smells you really need to give it another good rinse. Use whatever detergent or neutralizing agent is recommended for your solution, then follow up with some proper clean water (something filtered or distilled, not regular tap water. Tap water can have impurities that could negatively react with the bluing agent and leave unsightly surface blemishes during the rinsing process). If done properly there should be no smell, at least until you put on some nice oil to soak into the new finish.

But you did say cold blue, which gives me some other clues. Cold blue is often used for touch up work, and some people do not fully disassemble the gun for such work. This leads to the possibility that some of the solution got into the wood or other nonmetallic components. If that is the case, and the solution is not able to simply be wiped off because it has soaked into the material, then, well, sucks to be you I guess? Not only can this be bad for any metal parts that come into contact with that piece, but the only real way to get rid of the smell is time. You could try soaking the part in something else to displace the blueing agent, but I have no idea how well that would work as I have never had to try it. Depending on the material (wood for instance) this could also be really hard on the part, potentially ruining it. You may just be stuck replacing the part that has the soaked in bluing agent.
 
Curious as to how you prepped it? If you used something like brake cleaner or other chemicals that may be working against you.

Hot water and baking soda after ?

Edit: you may try some frog lube. It smells pretty good and will provide protection as well.
 
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Thanks for the information and the support. I was going to do a small touch up on a side panel of a revolver, but I remember the smell of cold bluing is awful. I'm going to do more research on the prep work before I get started and do a test run as well.
 
Thanks for the information and the support. I was going to do a small touch up on a side panel of a revolver, but I remember the smell of cold bluing is awful. I'm going to do more research on the prep work before I get started and do a test run as well.
You definitely want to do a test run. If you cannot get an exact sample of the metal in question you should sand off a small spot under the grip or in another unnoticeable spot and test whatever cold blue you are planning on using to see how well it matches your existing finish. All cold blues are not the same; there are different formulas, different concentrations and sometimes even temperature and humidity can impact the final look of the process. Just because you have a "cold blue" factory finish and bought a product that says "cold blue in a can" does not mean your touch-up work will seamlessly blend with the existing finish.

That being said the process of cold bluing is pretty forgiving if you are using any of the common industry standard formulas and are following proper procedure. Some tips are to make sure the part fully disassembled and clean. As I said before lots of people do touch-ups without full disassembly, and while this can work, it also provides the most opportunity for screw-ups. I recommend against it. Take everything all the way apart, use brake-clean, acetone or whatever else you have that will scour grime off the surface without affecting the metal and then dry the part thoroughly. Use glove to handle the part while you are bluing (the oils from your fingers will impact the process and leave blemishes), and be ready to neutralize the process and clean the part before you apply the bluing agent. There is nothing worse than getting to the right matching finish only to realize the process is going past what you wanted while you look for your washing up tub.

For most products out there it should be a pretty simple job to wipe the bluing compound on the affected spot, wait for the oxide layer to match up by eye and then stop the process and clean the part. This way may not get you perfect perfect results, but it should get you close enough that people will not be able to notice unless you tell them exactly where you did the touch-up. If you are an absolute perfectionist, however, just be prepared to see the touch-up every time you look at the part. The only way to really get an absolutely perfect match is to chemically or physically remove all the bluing and redo the whole part at the same time.

Also, just because it needs to be said, don't do this to historical pieces. A huge part of their value is the wear they have acquired over a century or two, and "refinishing" them can destroy the monetary and historical value of the piece. Just leave it alone and enjoy the history you have in front of you.
 
Remember that cold blue smell....
Comes in handy at the gun show , when the seller says that the gun is excellent with the original finish....:eek: :D

To be clear...I have no issue with a re-finish or touch up....or even a complete overhaul of a used firearm.
I just expect honestly on the seller's part.
Andy
 
Also, just because it needs to be said, don't do this to historical pieces. A huge part of their value is the wear they have acquired over a century or two, and "refinishing" them can destroy the monetary and historical value of the piece. Just leave it alone and enjoy the history you have in front of you.
This, absolutely. I'd much, much rather have a gun with honest wear on it than cold bluing. Collector piece of not.

Comes in handy at the gun show , when the seller says that the gun is excellent with the original finish...
Yes, this was my very first thought when I read, "cold blue" in the subject line.
 
This, absolutely. I'd much, much rather have a gun with honest wear on it than cold bluing. Collector piece of not.
If it is not a historical piece I honestly do not care. I have some guns I have bubba'd just for kicks. But they are usually new makes or worthless trash. I have a few more in the safe waiting for the same treatment. If you want a gun with a specific look just go for it. Worst you can do is need a new gun.
 
Remember that cold blue smell....
Comes in handy at the gun show , when the seller says that the gun is excellent with the original finish....:eek: :D

To be clear...I have no issue with a re-finish or touch up....or even a complete overhaul of a used firearm.
I just expect honestly on the seller's part.
Andy

Well, hopefully you don't ask to smell the seller's fingers to confirm a suspicious piece….. they might not smell like cold blue!

;):D






I know, I know… how old am I? :rolleyes:







:s0140:
 
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