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I recently purchased a new Glock 43x. First time I took it to the range I put 100 rounds through it and experienced 2 light primer strikes. The next time I went I brought 2 different kinds of ammo and again experienced light primer strikes. I lubed up the rails after that but when I took it back out with a different brand of ammo I again had a light primer strike. One think I've noticed is i can feel a slight hitch in the slide when I'm shooting occasionally. This doesn't always result in a light primer strike, but occasionally it does. Every round that I have had a light primer strike on I put back in the gun and it would go off the second time. The Gun is still entirely stock with no after market parts yet. Bought this gun to be my new CCW but as of now there is no way I'd trust that thing for that. If I can figure out how to post a picture on here I will of a round that went off and one that had a light primer strike. One thing I've noticed is all the rounds that have had a light primer strike have been off center where as every other casing that I've picked up has been dead center. I'm not new to guns by any means but I am new to Glocks. Is this a common problem and what would be potential solutions?
 
Here are a light primer strike and a normal strike side by side

IMG_4114.jpeg IMG_4115.jpeg
 
@Jacan4 read through this thread from a few years ago. We had the same problem. Lots of BS in the thread but some useful info as well. Short version; Glocks will fire Out of Battery and since its a Glock no one cares.

https://www.northwestfirearms.com/threads/glock-43-fires-out-of-battery.272106/
Great. Not quite the answer I was hoping for. Did you ever get that gun running right? If I can't get this gun to run reliably then there is no way I will be keeping it. The FTF rate is ridiculous for a ccw or any gun for that matter.
 
Great. Not quite the answer I was hoping for. Did you ever get that gun running right? If I can't get this gun to run reliably then there is no way I will be keeping it. The FTF rate is ridiculous for a ccw or any gun for that matter.
It probably can be fixed, but not by screwing around with it. Glock should take a look at it and replace whatever out-of-spec parts. A bad ejector can cause this, for instance.
 
On a brand new glock... I've seen this before... and have a sneaky suspicion. The bottom line... if it's not going to work for you, it just won't, but before I went through all the hassle of sending it back to glock I would have someone else do some test firing and see if they can duplicate the light strike. If so, and you're not comfortable diagnosing the issue, then warranty's are there for a reason.

On another note, you didn't mention if you did any after purchase use of products or such(?) A full teardown cleaning might might cure it... including pulling the channel liner for inspection.

Like I said though... I have a suspicion and would have someone else test fire and confirm the light strikes are mechanical before moving forward with anything too involved.
 
Keep running ammo thru it. 200-400 rounds to break everything in

Clean the gun . Full tear down . Clean the firing pin , channel liner and spring cups.

Then run the same ammo and see if the issue continues
 
Great. Not quite the answer I was hoping for. Did you ever get that gun running right? If I can't get this gun to run reliably then there is no way I will be keeping it. The FTF rate is ridiculous for a ccw or any gun for that matter.
Sadly, no. After the FFL she bought it from called Glock again and it was clear they weren't interested in doing anything about it it got tossed in a corner. I will get an aftermarket trigger assembly at some point and see if I can fix it, but it will never be a carry gun and isn't high on my priority list. It is a range toy and malfunction drill fixture.
 
I'd also check for any obstructions and/or lube/oil in the striker channel that could possibly impede the striker.
I agree with @spookshack about disassembly of the striker assembly, inspecting the striker channel and striker assembly and cleaning if necessary.

But I respectfully DISAGREE with @spookshack about lubing/oiling the striker channel.

Do NOT lube / oil the striker channel, nor reassemble any striker parts with oil residue on them. Channel and striker assembly parts should be DRY after you clean them and reassemble.

Yes - disassemble (if you're comfortable with that level of disassembly) and inspect and clean the components. If you run a solvent patch through the striker channel, then make sure you run enough dry patches through it until it is dry. Then do NOT oil or lube. To do so will result in an immediate and significant build up of carbon/powder/gunk on the striker assembly and in the striker channel. That, of course, will easily cause striker problems in quick order. It will also contribute to gunking-up the extractor assembly and possibly the firing pin safety plunger assembly.

Glock striker channels / striker assemblies are designed to NOT be lubed.

Glocks are, inherently, designed to run "dry", as opposed to many other types of firearms.

Consult your user's manual for what points on a Glock should be oiled.

Best of luck solving your problem. Hope it works out.

EDIT: I watched the Johnny Glock vid posted above AFTER I wrote this post. LOL. 🤣
 
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I personally would rather Glock fix it for free than spend $80 with of ammo breaking in a gun that shouldn't require break in. Since the frame flexes there aren't a bunch of steel parts trying squeeze past each other.

Having another shooter check for limp wristing is a good idea, though
 
On a brand new glock... I've seen this before... and have a sneaky suspicion. The bottom line... if it's not going to work for you, it just won't, but before I went through all the hassle of sending it back to glock I would have someone else do some test firing and see if they can duplicate the light strike. If so, and you're not comfortable diagnosing the issue, then warranty's are there for a reason.

On another note, you didn't mention if you did any after purchase use of products or such(?) A full teardown cleaning might might cure it... including pulling the channel liner for inspection.

Like I said though... I have a suspicion and would have someone else test fire and confirm the light strikes are mechanical before moving forward with anything too involved.
I have a different experience and take on this. Fully admit it's my bias but I've had too many , really stupid, warranty repairs ...and from reputable manufacturers.

If I buy a gun I fully expect it to function flawless with any ammo and by anyone. Im personally done with "troubleshooting" the manufacturers mistakes. The OP doesn't strike me as inexperienced shooter, so limp wristing is out.
I once tried to intentionally get a glock clone I build to jam, and couldn't. No matter how bad I held it, it never jammed. Same architecture, if I can build one Glock can too.

Glocks are popular because they work like that, anyone can shoot them and they run. Glock needs to own this one and fix it.
 

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