Need Help Identifying 40 cal Projectiles - Need Reload Data

[washagonian]

Bought these 40/10mm projectiles form a member. He thought they were Berry's, but couldn't remember.

I've spent the morning researching and checking every projectile manufacture I could come up with, but have not been able to find an exact match.

Hoping those of you with more reloading experience can assist me with either:

1.) identifying the manufacturer so I can better research reload data
AND/OR
2.) Make a recommendation of a similar projectile (e.g., X-treme, Winchester, Sierra, ???) where I can easily find published reload data.

PROJECTILE DESCRIPTION

• Caliber: 40/10mm
• Dia: .400
• Length: appx .583
• ID of HP: appx .130
• Weight: 165 gr
• Material: Copper plated
• Bullet Type: Flat Point (truncated) Hollow Point; copper cuts are inside the mouth only, no cuts running down the exterior sides
• Base: Concave

Berrys does have a similar projectile in their catalogue, but it is not a HP.

NOTE: not sure I got the projectiles in the original shipping container, but that might be the case. Anyway, the origin address is:

HDP P.O. Box 2974, Mission, KS 66201.

I tried researching the address (thought it might be Hornady), but no luck.

Thanks in advance for any help.

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[2Wheels4Ever]

I was thinking it could be montana gold, but it doesn't quite match. Hopefully this can narrow it down a little.

 

[oremike]

Any 165gr hardcast or plated data would be a good place to start. Just be sure you build them to fed and plunk test. For powder start with a start load and work up. For the plunk test start long and work down.

 

[Pepe-lepew]

Use lead or plated bullet load data in the same weight. Lead bullets are very similar to plated. Using lead data errors on the side of caution.
Most load data uses a firearm or test barrel that does not match what you have. Just like two similar bullets. It really is only suggestions and why most everyone says to start low and work up.

 

[Gomer]

Appears to be a plated bullet as opposed to a jacket. Nothing wrong with plated other than the manufacturers usually say that you shouldnt push them past something in the area of 1500fps (depending on manufacturer) or the velocity may cause the plating to come apart. Ive shot a ton of plated stuff and preferred them over plain lead, keeping my fingers and barrel cleaner. Ive never had an issue with the plating coming apart with velocities as high as 2000fps out of a Marlin lever carbine. I'm sure some may do it, but Ive never come across a plated bullet manufacturer that published specific data for their bullets. If they are indeed plated, most manufacturers will recommend data that is similar to plain lead loads for a place to start. The thickness of the copper on plated bullets is rather thin, usually somewhere in the .005" to .010" so you can probably cut into the copper with a knife fairly easily to confirm if its jacketed or plated. Oh, and again, if it is plated, my experience is that the hollow point is likely intended to reduce the amount of lead bouncing back off of steel targets as opposed to expansion. Hope that helps

 

[Local Loader]

They look like they could possibly be Speer, X-treme or sig v-crowns. Start with a light load and work up if you're planning on using them is the best advice you could get without knowing who made them.

 

[washagonian]

Thanks everyone for the feedback.

I've got a pretty good recipe for these projectiles and will work up from the bottom.

These are just target rounds; don't need velocity or even super-accuracy for that matter. Just want pills to shoot and the price I got them at was right.

Everyone have a safe and enjoyable Thanksgiving.