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Recently I've had the thought of getting a 1-6/1-8 x24.
Vortex was a thought, to potentially replace?, not sure, my EO & 3x magnifier.
I've had the EXPS series (3-2/3-4) sold me long ago. The only thing I do not like, the added weight/bulk of the inline magnifier. May as well have a scope? Not necessarily. Depends what you want from your optic array.
 
It all depends on what you are after in an optic.
I had stopped shooting rifles for a few years and when I got back into it I was pretty surprised that I was no longer able to see targets that well at 100 yards. Forget about 200 yd +
I fiddled with a RD and magnifier on my AR15 and sold it off.

I have 3x9 scopes on bolt actions and could have just slapped one on my AR and called it a day.
I tried a Primary Arms 1x8 ACSS scope on my SR762.
On 1x I can see clearly and have a sharp chevron aiming point. This works better for me over a red dot due to Astigmatism. And I can clearly see milk jugs on 1x at 200 yds.
Works for me..

What also works for me is to crank it to 8x, leave the front cover closed and use it occluded.
Anything farther than I can normally see clearly, just pop open the front cover and it's a modern day miracle, I can see again.
I've only been to about 300 yds but the BDC seemed to work on a 9" round plate with Federal 168gn.
I suppose if you want to be precise, you could look at your handy dandy chart and twist the turret a bit as well.
For myself using the BDC past 300 yds would most likely be a waste of good ammo and I would just adjust it as needed.
The ranging works well also which is handy if your target is say 18" or so wide and about 5"10" tall.
At 100 yds a 9" round plate just fits in the inner circle.
As per the instructions I zeroed it .5" high @ 100 yds using Federal 168gn.

I put a PA 1x6 on my AR15 as well. Works just like the other with a 100 yd zero using 55gn.

For the type of rifles and what I use them for this works out for me.
If I was to do it over I would have gotten ones that have a motion activated reticle instead.
But again, for as much as I use them a battery once a month or so isn't that bad.
 
PSA has a combo deal on the 1-8x24 StrikeEagle, so I picked one up.
I'll put the 2-7x33 leupy back on my hunting rifle.
 
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Straight up cheep 3x 30mm on my coyote killer. No muss no fuss. Makes those 12 foot to 200 yard shots (when I get busted) as simple as it gets. The 12 footer is when I really learned the importance of having both eyes open for quick acquisition. It does have a BDC. Don't really see myself needing it for those ranges.
 
I run a Trijicon 1-4 Accu-Power. The glass is very good, can use it well into dusk and dawn.

I keep wondering if I should have ponied up for that scope. That Vortex LE/.Mil discount is hard not to look at. I've been kinda meh on Vortex, but this seems like it fits my needs ok. But I still wish I had the money for the Trijicon.
 
My .02...

You are looking to spend anywhere from $150. - $1500 (Simmonds to Swarovski) for a scope, but you are trying to match the optic to a $25 - $250+ mount (no-name to Sphur) mount.

I would recommend looking on what your expectations are for what you want to do with the rifle. After you know what you want to do with the rifle and cartridge, pick an optic and do not short change quality to save a couple of bucks. After picking your optic, get the mount that fits your optic within what you want to spend for the features that work for your application.

Do not gimp your setup simply you have a mount and want to build a platform around that. Rifle and cartridge are number 1, optics/sights are number 2 and accessories like mounts, bipods, bayonet lugs/chainsaws are number 3. If you find an optic that works with the mount, well and good. However, if you find the perfect optic for you, buy a perfect mount for it, not the other way around.
 
My .02...

You are looking to spend anywhere from $150. - $1500 (Simmonds to Swarovski) for a scope, but you are trying to match the optic to a $25 - $250+ mount (no-name to Sphur) mount.

I would recommend looking on what your expectations are for what you want to do with the rifle. After you know what you want to do with the rifle and cartridge, pick an optic and do not short change quality to save a couple of bucks. After picking your optic, get the mount that fits your optic within what you want to spend for the features that work for your application.

Do not gimp your setup simply you have a mount and want to build a platform around that. Rifle and cartridge are number 1, optics/sights are number 2 and accessories like mounts, bipods, bayonet lugs/chainsaws are number 3. If you find an optic that works with the mount, well and good. However, if you find the perfect optic for you, buy a perfect mount for it, not the other way around.

Agree with you totally. Until a local guy threw the mount my way. Its an American Defense QD scout mount in 30mm. Considering most of the low powered scopes that are available for the AR market come with 30mm tubes, I knew it wouldn't be an issue finding a decent scope that fit my needs that also had a 30mm tube. I'm not generally a scope-on-an-AR guy, so as long as it won't shake lose and lose its zero or fog up, I'm good.

I'd spend a grand on a scope for a hunting rifle, but not an AR. I'm into hunting rifles, ARs are just tools. I'm actually thinking of ditching the scope already and going back to a red dot.
 
Its less about light and more about increments of travel for the reticle. Bigger tube=more clicks.

If the scope doesn't have one-inch scope guts. Many of them do. I've never run out of travel when zeroing a one-inch scope that was mounted properly. You can get a 308, not the flattest shooting cartridge in the word, out to 600 yards no problem with a one inch scope tube.
 
I ordered my SE on 9/11. PSA is slammed with orders. Still has not shipped.
In my case, the SE is a stepping stone. I can always revert backwards to a Comp M4, if the eye-box plays out as expected. Meaning "shadowed"
 
If the scope doesn't have one-inch scope guts. Many of them do. I've never run out of travel when zeroing a one-inch scope that was mounted properly. You can get a 308, not the flattest shooting cartridge in the word, out to 600 yards no problem with a one inch scope tube.
Cheap ones use 1" guts, and are probably 30mm so people aren't buying rings as they upgrade.
That makes more sense to me, bottomed out or topped out. Not much need in the middle for a scope under 6x.
On a 1-6 its reasonable to want to use 3x or 4x, but 1-4x you're most likely gonna use one or the other hence the idea of a 1x/4x. But the psu has POI/POA issues IICR, elcan doesn't but its over 2 grand.

IMHO, I just use a fixed 3x or 4x. Not as light as a red dot but lighter than a lvpo.
 
Cheap ones use 1" guts, and are probably 30mm so people aren't buying rings as they upgrade.

On a 1-6 its reasonable to want to use 3x or 4x, but 1-4x you're most likely gonna use one or the other hence the idea of a 1x/4x. But the psu has POI/POA issues IICR, elcan doesn't but its over 2 grand.

IMHO, I just use a fixed 3x or 4x. Not as light as a red dot but lighter than a lvpo.

I'll never use anything between 1 and 8 in this scope. I'm not real big on variable power scopes in general, but I like the versatility in this situation to have an illuminated scope that will be on 1x 95% of the time.
 

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