M1903A3 sporter value

[Ura-Ki]

Thanks for that info. I'll offer lower and see what happens. It has the commercial beuhler two position safety which is nice but also eliminated the bolt lock feature. Do you have any tips on what else to look for to help ID a good conversation?

I like to see bolt mods like a polish or machine turning, good bolt handle mods that look professionally done, and any well done engraving adds to the overall desirability!
Beyond that, really nice stock designs of the classic no scope era in really nice walnut or one of the exotics, especially with the white spacers and Onyx forend and grip, as well as butt spacer, name brand iron sights if fitted, and the bolt stop still functional. A known quality barrel, especially with such things as sling swivel band and even stepped in a nice tapper ( Not the Mil Spec stepped) and If equipped with a scope, one of the really nice tip off mounts would be super desirable, or the really slick and fancy dove tailed mounts along with a period scope, especially the higher end optics like a Redfield, Leupold, Weaver, or one of the euro brands like Zeiss, Lica, or Swarovski! Obviously, all that adds up to a very nice ( and spendy) Rifle, but well worth it!

Here is my Stoeger built 1903!

 

[skywag]

Is it a famous gunsmith...........or.......Bubba?

 

[PNW Partisan]

Is it a famous gunsmith...........or.......Bubba?

Unknown. The shop Acquired it in an estate sale. It has some berry well done components like the hot blued barrel and action and parts. Stainless polished bolt, extractor, bolt body, and handle. Down tuned bolt handle that seems fitted to stock. The walnut stock is good. The barrel itself looks extremely clean and is a 2 groove with minimal wear based on the gauge. The holes for the scope look straight. I'm guessing maybe "competent" gunsmith did the work. Doesn't look bubba'd? Screws aren't all marred up. It has a buehler installed safety that works. Trigger was what I would expect for military surplus.

 

[CLT65]

A well done sporter, put together by a someone who knows what they're doing, is a thing of beauty. A friend has one that, as I recall, was put together for his father back in the '50s or early '60s. It was built by a well-known master gunsmith, and it's become a legend in the family. His grandkids talk about "Grandpa's Mauser", and it's taken plenty of game over the years. It's a tackdriver and a family heirloom.

About 20 years ago I was talking to his son-in-law, also a friend of mine. I had just bought a couple of Turkish Mausers at Big 5 for $50 each, and was showing them to him. He got excited, thinking he'd go buy a $50 Mauser and have a gunsmith turn it into a work of art like his father-in-law's.

Unfortunately I rained on his parade a bit, when I started adding up just how much it would cost to pay a good gunsmith to rebarrel and reblue it, replace, fit, and finish the stock, turn down the bolt, drill and tap for scope mounts, etc.... I told him that if he wanted a beautiful one-of-a-kind rifle to pass down to his kids someday, it would be worth it, but if he just wanted a deer rifle for hunting season, an off-the-rack modern Remington/Winchester/Savage/Ruger would be significantly cheaper and easier. He ended up picking up a really nice used Model 700 Remington 30-06 for $450, complete with a Leupold 3-9x scope.

 

[PNW Partisan]

One more question for y'all. I had read on the CMP website not to use ammo above 50,000 CUP. I'd this true?? So it would eliminate some of the 180gr loads and other loads on the high end of the load data?

 

[Ura-Ki]

One more question for y'all. I had read on the CMP website not to use ammo above 50,000 CUP. I'd this true?? So it would eliminate some of the 180gr loads and other loads on the high end of the load data?

That's going to depend entirely on the recievers build date! I have run near max with nary an issue in all of mine. Still, it pays to pull a scope and mount if your not sure and check the SN for the dates it was made! Pretty much anything built after '43 should be fine, but still check to be sure!

 

[JRuby]

Only low numbered 1903 are questioned as to thier heat treating recommending the low pressures. It is my understanding that 1903a3's are not subject to this rule. I load my 03a3 to modern levels and have done so with a half dozen plus rifles.

 

[PNW Partisan]

That's going to depend entirely on the recievers build date! I have run near max with nary an issue in all of mine. Still, it pays to pull a scope and mount if your not sure and check the SN for the dates it was made! Pretty much anything built after '43 should be fine, but still check to be sure!

Thanks for that! I figured it was a liability thing. I know this one's receiver was built in November 1943 and barrel in September 1943.

 

[PNW Partisan]

Only low numbered 1903 are questioned as to thier heat treating recommending the low pressures. It is my understanding that 1903a3's are not subject to this rule. I load my 03a3 to modern levels and have done so with a half dozen plus rifles.

I read a bunch about the low serial number ones from heat treating, but it was weird to come across that from CMP about all M1a and 1903s/A3s

 

[JRuby]

I read a bunch about the low serial number ones from heat treating, but it was weird to come across that from CMP about all M1a and 1903s/A3s

I was not aware of this. I have not had this issue when reloading for these rifles. Maybe it's wise to treat these old rifles with a bit of respect.

 

[Ura-Ki]

Most factory loads for the .30 U.S. 1906 are way under pressure, precisely for this reason! The Garand wasn't made for those kind of pressures, and, the known issues with the early 1903's sealed the deal for lawyer proof loads! It's part of how the mighty .300 Win Mag got so popular, with the mighty Aught 6 down loaded so much, it sure seemed like a winner, until some one with a later 03 hand loaded to full pop, then the Mighty .300 wasn't such a Champ anymore!

 

[Mark W.]

The low serial number thing is with 1903 Springfields is below approx. #800,000 for Springfields and Rock Island at exactly 285,507

NO 03A3 has anything to do with this.

The rifles in question were made before March 1918. My Springfield is 779,XXX and has the improved heat treating but not the Newer Nickle steel they went to after #800,000 etc. so it gets nothing more then hunting pressure loads. Afterall that is what it did for almost 80 years between being made and me buying it SO I am not worried about shooting it. By the way almost twice as many Rock Islands failed per 100,000 made then Springfields.

I have read General Julian Hatcher's complete investigation report on the Springfield Rather then try to remember all the details this paper is the best I have found to explain the whole thing. https://m1903.com/03rcvrfail/

Take note the Marine never stopped using their low serial number 1903's until replaced by M1 Garands during WWII

I am not telling anyone they are safe or not only giving info.

As to that scope being just some cheap Tasco I have that same Tasco World class 3X-9X on my Rugar M77R (MY deer rifle) and have for almost 35 years. That scope has never fogged and never lost its settings. I am sure there are better scopes heck I own some but that is a DAMN good scope for a hunting rifle IMHO

 

[PNW Partisan]

Thanks for that info Mark! I don't chance crazy high pressure loads when loading, but I just want to make sure I'm not missing something. I was aware of the heat treatment issues, but am glad to hear it shouldn't be an issue in later Guns. I agree there should certainly be a degree of respect when using these older units, but if I'm going to field it, I also want it to do what I need (e.g. shoot capable loads). Glad to hear others aren't concerned about it but aware.

 

[ilikegunspdx]

Sporterizing destroys the value Imo.

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• ilikegunspdx
• Aug 13, 2022

 

[Mark W.]

I get a kick out of the guys that make the comments about how sporterizing a 1903 ruins its value. No one is talking about doing that to a Military trim rifle now. Most were done either between the wars or after Korea into the 60's SO 60 years ago. Worrying about the value past it in its current condition is silly. If the rifle is well built the bore in good shape the stock fits and looks good then its a good work horse hunting rifle. If you compare that to one of the plastic versions from Savage or one of the other companies that make inexpensive rifles then this is easily worth $400+

 

[solv3nt]

I get a kick out of the guys that make the comments about how sporterizing a 1903 ruins its value. No one is talking about doing that to a Military trim rifle now. Most were done either between the wars or after Korea into the 60's SO 60 years ago. Worrying about the value past it in its current condition is silly. If the rifle is well built the bore in good shape the stock fits and looks good then its a good work horse hunting rifle. If you compare that to one of the plastic versions from Savage or one of the other companies that make inexpensive rifles then this is easily worth $400+

I think the point is more that it would be worth $800+ if it weren't sporterized, not necessarily that the owner/perspective owner destroyed the value.

 

[PNW Partisan]

I get a kick out of the guys that make the comments about how sporterizing a 1903 ruins its value. No one is talking about doing that to a Military trim rifle now. Most were done either between the wars or after Korea into the 60's SO 60 years ago. Worrying about the value past it in its current condition is silly. If the rifle is well built the bore in good shape the stock fits and looks good then its a good work horse hunting rifle. If you compare that to one of the plastic versions from Savage or one of the other companies that make inexpensive rifles then this is easily worth $400+

I concur. I wouldn't take a original configuration rifle now and sporterized. But since it's already sporterized, I'm assessing the "value" of purchasing and using. Look at similar controlled round feed options or ones with solid actions, I think the Sporters seem like a good option. For me, as long as the action is solid and can take the normal full power loads. I'd be happy. I certainly want a good bore and straight screw holes and functioning safety/trigger. As I go up in cost (eg $800-$1000) I start to think about another Model 70 or a Ruger M77, but for the $400-$500 range. The 1903a3 Sporters have always piqued my interest.

 

[thorborg]

I usually buy things I want to play with, not profit, collect, preserve, so I look at them according to what I am willing to pay, and add any possible loss to depreciation.
Having followed the prices listed in SP Fjestad's blue book of gun values for many decades, my experience has been;
If I'm selling, good luck finding a buyer for that price.
If I'm are buying, good luck finding a gun for that price.
All in all, if that rifle is in very good operating condition and your a hunter, it seems in good shape, tell them 400 and to keep the scope .
But I would not chide you for paying 500.
(scope's gotta go))

 

[PNW Partisan]

Thanks Thorborg. I do hunt pretty hard here in the coast range. I have my stalking rifle which is a tikka T3X compact in 308. This would drift over into my elk gun and also something that I know my kiddo will appreciate as he gets older. I have the family heirloom pre-64 model 70. I'd field it but honestly. It's so heavy at 8.75lbs with no scope. I have a synthetic stocked M70 as well. So this fills my "wood and steel" itch from what I can see. I just need to make sure I don't over pay.

 

[Andy54Hawken]

At one time when such things were more common , cheaper and private sales easier...
I would buy have azzed re-modeled / sporterized rifles...and re-work them into rifles that I liked.

It was a good way to practice gun repair and re-finishing skills...learn about rifle actions and the like.
I always used to scratch my head at the comments of :
"You ruined a rifle".
Hmmm...I took a badly done sporterized job and turned it into something better / nicer..or took a rusty mess of parts and a dirty ill fitting stock...and gave it a new life.
Yet many of those same guys will go ga ga over a custom hot rod that ain't anything like the stock car it is based on.....
Andy