Help fixing a cracked stock?

[etrain16]

If you can drill a hole from inside the cutout area, I would try and pin it along with some glue in the crack.
I have used bamboo skewers as the pin material as it's got a grainy surface and is a real tough material.
Pick a drill bit with a slightly larger diameter and drill a hole from inside the cutout diagonally across the grain near the end of the stock.
Don't drill out the other end unless you don't care about appearances. I use a syringe type applicator for injecting glue into the hole.
Gorilla glue is a great adhesive but reacts to moisture when setting up, so any moisture present will make it expand considerably out of the joints.

This is what I was thinking. In my work with wood (such as building/repairing slingshots) in the past, to fix a damaged fork, and to make it as strong or stronger than the original wood, I would drill it, pin it and use 2-part epoxy for the repair, likely with a little bit of wood dust (from sanding, the same color as the wood being repaired) mixed in the epoxy. Seemed that type of repair held up best under stress. But what @jbett98 recommending regarding drilling and pinning is exactly what I was going to recommend. It will make for a very strong repair.

 

[rdb241]

Gorilla clear glue and then sand it flat.

Little hard to tell how bad the crack is but gorilla glue will bond wood really well.

My thought when I saw this thread. I would add that they make a thinner Gorrila Super Glue. I would very gently try to open the crack ever so slightly and use the above super glue. Don't be afraid to fill the crack well. So it will run down into the crack. Then use a wood clamp. Wipe of the extra glue. Let dry and sand. I have laminated many wood things using Gorrila Glue and I think it works better than Elmer's glue. I have yet to have a repair fail. Dressers, chairs, picture frames, you name it.

 

[clearconscience]

So I glued and clamped with gorilla wood glue (actually had some laying around) and then put the first coat on. Just put the forst coat of poly on the cob grip, and first coat of stain on the buttstock.

I'll post some better photos when I'm done

 

[11Charlie]

So I glued and clamped with gorilla wood glue (actually had some laying around) and then put the first coat on. Just put the forst coat of poly on the cob grip, and first coat of stain on the buttstock.

I'll post some better photos when I'm done

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That turned out great! nice job.

For future reference they make glue syringes. They make things like this really easy to get the glue where you need it and then clamp. they are cheap and a one time use so it doesn't matter which glue you use in it. Again nice job it looks great.

 

[clearconscience]

This is how it ended up so far. I ended up not liking the stock and sanded it down again, filed it a little and stained, then poly again.
Have a couple more coats to put on but I'm pretty happy with it

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

That's a really good look, i like it.

 

[Velzey]

Looks great!
I am a gun smith and this is how I repair stocks that are broken in the wrist area.
I always always always pin a crack repair in the wrist area. Stocks take allot of abuse.
Any type of wood glue deteriorates after a while and cracks and crumbles. I don't like it!
I use clear slow cure epoxy, drill it (for a pin) from the bottom up into the cracked part, separate it as much as I can and use a heat gun on it, get it hot and start applying the epoxy. Let it thin out and seep in. I use a small fleet of dental picks to get the glue way in there.
The pin, should be .010 smaller than the hole (or so). Also make the pin so it sits .062 or so below the surface.
Once the epoxy is thoroughly spread press it together, slather the pin with epoxy and slide it up in place. Clamp it all and wipe off excess. Then let it set for a day or two.
I then remove the buttplate, take a 3/32" hole punch and remove a plug. Then fit the plug into the hole over the pin.
Sand, stain if needed and finish.

Simple.

Below is a pic of the type of punch I use to make a plug.

 

[11Charlie]

Looks great!
I am a gun smith and this is how I repair stocks that are broken in the wrist area.
I always always always pin a crack repair in the wrist area. Stocks take allot of abuse.
Any type of wood glue deteriorates after a while and cracks and crumbles. I don't like it!
I use clear slow cure epoxy, drill it (for a pin) from the bottom up into the cracked part, separate it as much as I can and use a heat gun on it, get it hot and start applying the epoxy. Let it thin out and seep in. I use a small fleet of dental picks to get the glue way in there.
The pin, should be .010 smaller than the hole (or so). Also make the pin so it sits .062 or so below the surface.
Once the epoxy is thoroughly spread press it together, slather the pin with epoxy and slide it up in place. Clamp it all and wipe off excess. Then let it set for a day or two.
I then remove the buttplate, take a 3/32" hole punch and remove a plug. Then fit the plug into the hole over the pin.
Sand, stain if needed and finish.

Simple.

Below is a pic of the type of punch I use to make a plug.

View attachment 370557

Thats good info thanks for sharing Velzey

 

[11Charlie]

@clearconscience Stock looks great! Can't wait to see the complete shotgun.

 

[etrain16]

Looks great!
I am a gun smith and this is how I repair stocks that are broken in the wrist area.
I always always always pin a crack repair in the wrist area. Stocks take allot of abuse.
Any type of wood glue deteriorates after a while and cracks and crumbles. I don't like it!
I use clear slow cure epoxy, drill it (for a pin) from the bottom up into the cracked part, separate it as much as I can and use a heat gun on it, get it hot and start applying the epoxy. Let it thin out and seep in. I use a small fleet of dental picks to get the glue way in there.
The pin, should be .010 smaller than the hole (or so). Also make the pin so it sits .062 or so below the surface.
Once the epoxy is thoroughly spread press it together, slather the pin with epoxy and slide it up in place. Clamp it all and wipe off excess. Then let it set for a day or two.
I then remove the buttplate, take a 3/32" hole punch and remove a plug. Then fit the plug into the hole over the pin.
Sand, stain if needed and finish.

Simple.

Below is a pic of the type of punch I use to make a plug.

View attachment 370557

That's very similar to how I learned to do it from some experienced wood workers, glad to hear it is a process favored by Master Velzey! I like that butt (stock) plug idea. And the heat gun idea is new to me, I'll have to try that next time.

 

[clearconscience]

So this isn't perfect, but I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. When I started looking into a Shotgun this is what I imagined and it became reality.
Thanks for all the help NWFA community!

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

That's a very distinctive look, not what i would have imagined, but i love the colouring and finish on the wood, nice one.

 

[Stomper]

What, no provisions for a bayonet?!

 

[11Charlie]

So this isn't perfect, but I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. When I started looking into a Shotgun this is what I imagined and it became reality.
Thanks for all the help NWFA community!

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If it functions and you like it thats all that matters. I happen to think it turned out great.

 

[Joe13]

I'm very impressed man!

I'd like a shotgun like that looked like that for sure.