JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
Messages
10,374
Reactions
29,745
so I'm trying my hand at refinishing a wood stock for a 12ga and it cracked in about the worst spot.

Any suggestions?

IMG_6043.JPG IMG_6044.JPG IMG_6045.JPG
 
Try pry open the crack as best you can to allow some Elmers wood glue to penetrate the crack. Cinch the cracked piece back together with a clamp or maybe even a hose clamp in this case. Let it sit over night then remove the clamp and sand the wood smooth. It should make the crack disappear and maintain the integrity of the stock.
 
A gunsmith I used to work for many years ago used Two-Ton Epoxy (though I expect Gorilla or Elmers work fine too). Like old11bravo says, pry it open as best you can without making it worse; another trick is to used compressed air to blow the epoxy or glue deep into the crack. You want to get the glue into as much of the crack as you can.

If you don't have a good clamp handy a dozen wraps of electrical tape can work too. Careful not to dent the wood with the clamp.

That looks like a pretty easy crack to fix. When you're done and have it all refinished, you'll probably be the only one able to even notice the crack. I've repaired far worse and had them turn out pretty good. Follow up and post an after photo when it's done?
 
Try pry open the crack as best you can to allow some Elmers wood glue to penetrate the crack. Cinch the cracked piece back together with a clamp or maybe even a hose clamp in this case. Let it sit over night then remove the clamp and sand the wood smooth. It should make the crack disappear and maintain the integrity of the stock.
Any good wood glue will work if you can get it deep in the crack gorilla glue don't use the standard gorilla glue it expands when drying pro Bond gorilla wood glue
 
Have found that Urethane Tite Bond wood glue works really great except I do the gluing on such a crack with Vacuum Bagging and Tiny #72 drill bit holes from the area where the stock butts up to the metal, leaving them unseen when assembled.
First I steam the stock to open the cracks and get Moisture into the cracks which the Glue Must have to activate it properly.then Bag it and attach reservoir, then the vacuum sucks the activated glue into Every part of the crack, then, Tape applied heavily before the initial set will clamp the cracks back tight, let dry then sand, the Moisture even without ironing will raise small dents at the same time. Best of luck with your fix.
 
Wood glue or epoxy can be made to work it's way into the crack using a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and applied several times in succession. Just as the glue starts to tack up, apply some more, and repeat as needed! Bonus is clean up is super easy, and the finished stock will be as strong as before the crack!
 
I should have said this before but you probably know it already use only wood glue if you use something that is not made for wood it could cause more problems
 
I've repaired my Win 1897's stock with wood glue.

You might need to break off the "broken" piece. It's your call.

Anyway, blow out and flush out/clean out the crack (alcohol or acetone) and let it dry. Blow out the dust (again, if any) and apply the glue. I used Elmer's ProBond Wood Glue Professional Strength. With hand pressure I squeezed the pieces together and wiped away any glue that leaked out while it was still wet. Then, I used a plastic wrap (as a barrier) and a surgical rubber tube to wrap it all up very tightly. The surgical rubber band kept it under compression/pressure while the glue dried. IMHO, a clamp would be harder to work with as a stock isn't all that square. So, after the glue had dried, I removed everything and sanded off any extra pushed out glue and made the stock nice and smooth again (sanding and wiping off the dust with alcohol). Finally, I gave the stock several coats of BLO (boiled linseed oil).

BTW, I tried it once before with Elmer's white glue....learn from my mistake and don't do it with regular white glue.

Then...being that this was actually my second time around, I also broke off the cracked wooden pieces and reassembled them like a puzzle with glue between the cracks. Instead of just trying to expand the crack and inserting glue into the crack. That was my call.

BTW, I've heard that some glues "expand a lot" (Gorilla Glue). Because of that warning, I figured that the Gorilla Glue might actually expand in a smaller crack, making it bigger. That's not good. Besides, I had other future wood projects in mind for the Elmer's ProBond Wood Glue.

Anyway, you can pick what "glue" that you think is best.

Aloha, Mark
 
Last Edited:
Lol working with wood is such a pain in the A$$ it sucks when you get almost done and realize there's a crack or odd colors but it is something that we all can do then you will move to steal and aluminum and all that then for get about it Lol
 
If you can drill a hole from inside the cutout area, I would try and pin it along with some glue in the crack.
I have used bamboo skewers as the pin material as it's got a grainy surface and is a real tough material.
Pick a drill bit with a slightly larger diameter and drill a hole from inside the cutout diagonally across the grain near the end of the stock.
Don't drill out the other end unless you don't care about appearances. I use a syringe type applicator for injecting glue into the hole.
Gorilla glue is a great adhesive but reacts to moisture when setting up, so any moisture present will make it expand considerably out of the joints.
 
Yeah, I have a couple tubes of elmers wood glue I will try. All my clamps are at work I may go pick them up tomorrow.

I made the mistake of torching (for color) the stock that had been sitting in my garage all night when it was cold and I think that formed the split.
 
Either a slow-set epoxy or Titebond for a woodworker's glue (Titebond III is waterproof)
You can "sweat" epoxy into the crack with heat, like a hairdryer.
Make a spatula out of a plastic coffee can lid and force the glue into the crack if you are using Titebond.

Titebond is going to be more user-friendly.
A favorite slow-setting epoxy is Hobby Poxy...very strong and low odor.

Also, as mentioned above, you should force the crack open so the glue can flow in deep.
On you chopsaw, without cutting your fingers off, make a tiny wedge out of some hardwood.
You could also carve one with a knife.
Take the wedge and tap it into the crack in the area that will be covered by the receiver.
If you're feeling ghetto, just tap a small, flat bladed screwdriver in there.
If it won't open with light pressure, then drill some channels as mentioned above.

Apply glue, forcing it into the crack with the homemade spatula.
Remove wedge
Clamp overnight

(how I would do it, YMMV)
 
Last Edited:
I have refinished, redone, repaired a few stocks (I AM NOT A GUNSMITH) and it is a very satisfying experience. It is usually a winter project when shooting opportunities are more limited.
 
If you drill a hole like I mentioned in my first post, the glue you inject into the hole will spread outward along both sides of the crack from the center outward. Way easier then trying to spread the crack and try and to get the glue flowing inward.
 
Last Edited:

Upcoming Events

Redmond Gun Show
Redmond, OR
Klamath Falls gun show
Klamath Falls, OR
Centralia Gun Show
Centralia, WA

New Resource Reviews

New Classified Ads

Back Top