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Oh I didnt know that. Are you talking about the old Carving or the new Kiesel?
Both, depending on the model. On some of them without the retention bar, they tried to engineer an angle into the headstock. Unfortunately they didn't use a steep enough angle to have the strings contact the whole surface of the nut and the strings were raised off the back edge. Then, when you cranked down the locking pads, the strings went sharp.
 
Both, depending on the model. On some of them without the retention bar, they tried to engineer an angle into the headstock. Unfortunately they didn't use a steep enough angle to have the strings contact the whole surface of the nut and the strings were raised off the back edge. Then, when you cranked down the locking pads, the strings went sharp.
I cant stand the sound of the 80's Kahler vibrato. They're good for what they are but not for seasoned playing. Rhandy Rhoads invented the Line 6 amp.... :s0140:
SERIOUSLY!
 
Good to know. So its not gonna mute if the saddle triangular base is in the opposite ?
Sure you can, it's just that the string will likely not be sharp. Also, if the intonation is moving around when palm muting, you may want to add a drop of blue lick tote to the threads in front of the and back of the saddle on the adjustment screws. If that doesn't fix it, it could be a problem with crappy tuners or an improperly cut nut.
 
Dour your LP's G and D strings not return to proper pitch after bends? If so you may need a little nut work.
Honestly the frame of the bridge feels so thin even when the saddle sits and slides when you and YES the string gets trapped at that angle. and feels like the saddle (not the post) is rocking back and forth... Or maybe moving side to side. Its not holding the tune right.
 
Honestly the frame of the bridge feels so thin even when the saddle sits and slides when you and YES the string gets trapped at that angle. and feels like the saddle (not the post) is rocking back and forth.
It very well may be. Also, a high quality bridge with a set screw to lock the bridge on the studs helps a lot too. Got a pic of the guitar? Headstock and bridge area?
 
But I'm gonna do what you said and mess around with the saddle so I can get my feet wet on the Les Paul setting techniques while I'm trying to figure out the replacement saddle along the way....
 
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My 1980's Stratoblaster. My friend Donny (a hell of a guitar player) help me build this back in '87. So much road wear for this guitar is been around. Its so magical that this guitar never ever goes out of tune. The setting of the bridge is slight less on the high E and I learned how to play with it throughout the years. Now when I use a normal guitar its throwing me off...
I had the chance to meet and jam with Trevor Rabin at the studio in Burbank. I have to get it inked man.... :s0119:

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That's even better! Oooh man wraparound adjustable bridge = Sustain!
I'm sold on that setup. That's like a Steve Steven sound on a Gibson... ehemm Chibson! :s0047:
I recognize the bridge on your guitar. The Chibson clones are actually made in the Epiphone factory. If you take the bridge off it will probably say Epi on the bottom of the tail piece.

A Gotoh would be a good way to go. You can reverse that saddle, but you have to take the wire off to do it. And, when yo\u do, all of t\he saddles will fall out unless you are really careful. An American ABR one won't retrofit as the hole spacing is different.

Did you buy it off AliBaba?
 
Sure you can, it's just that the string will likely not be sharp. Also, if the intonation is moving around when palm muting, you may want to add a drop of blue lick tote to the threads in front of the and back of the saddle on the adjustment screws. If that doesn't fix it, it could be a problem with crappy tuners or an improperly cut nut.
Those are all gonna be replaced. I'll get an ivory nut too. or close.
 

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