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Respectfully ...
Usually, (not always) it is better to gently tap in roll pins using the proper size roll pin punch. Building AR15 A1 rear iron sights was the most difficult. The dinky smallest roll pin punches will bend with use. Several are necessary. Cheap.
A medium ball peen hammer gently taps in the supported roll pins. Locking medical forceps. Cold blue fixes any roll pin bright peen marks. The springs and detents can be supported using fingers. A learned skill. The work is locked down.
Just me, (maybe only me) but I would not trust anybody else doing a barrel torque up job. I would remove the barrel and re do it my way. Consider all the bad things that can and do happen to uppers and barrel nuts with over torquing.
I suppose new type gas blocks are OK if they are made of steel and use the old type AR15/M16 barrel notches to install the gas block using the old type taper pins. Sometimes the OEM type stuff is the best for a reason. Military specification.
I am surprised the aluminum gas blocks installed with through bolts or sometimes just pinch bolts are even sold. How long will they last? Consider the gas temperature at that point of the barrel. Consider aluminum melting temperature.
We had lots of factory and shop made gages, fixtures and tools to do the builds. Having the proper tools and the knowledge to use them speeds up the build considerably. Indexing AR15 or M16 OEM barrel iron sights took the most time.
That pesky horribly designed M16/AR15 rear iron sight aperture had to be dead centered on the upper carrying handle trough with the build shooting dead center down the pipe right to left. Not hard to do but time consuming to say the least.
I am now old and cooted. Just passing stuff forward. Hope you do not take this wrong. Nobody uses iron sights today. Mostly optics.
Usually, (not always) it is better to gently tap in roll pins using the proper size roll pin punch. Building AR15 A1 rear iron sights was the most difficult. The dinky smallest roll pin punches will bend with use. Several are necessary. Cheap.
A medium ball peen hammer gently taps in the supported roll pins. Locking medical forceps. Cold blue fixes any roll pin bright peen marks. The springs and detents can be supported using fingers. A learned skill. The work is locked down.
Just me, (maybe only me) but I would not trust anybody else doing a barrel torque up job. I would remove the barrel and re do it my way. Consider all the bad things that can and do happen to uppers and barrel nuts with over torquing.
I suppose new type gas blocks are OK if they are made of steel and use the old type AR15/M16 barrel notches to install the gas block using the old type taper pins. Sometimes the OEM type stuff is the best for a reason. Military specification.
I am surprised the aluminum gas blocks installed with through bolts or sometimes just pinch bolts are even sold. How long will they last? Consider the gas temperature at that point of the barrel. Consider aluminum melting temperature.
We had lots of factory and shop made gages, fixtures and tools to do the builds. Having the proper tools and the knowledge to use them speeds up the build considerably. Indexing AR15 or M16 OEM barrel iron sights took the most time.
That pesky horribly designed M16/AR15 rear iron sight aperture had to be dead centered on the upper carrying handle trough with the build shooting dead center down the pipe right to left. Not hard to do but time consuming to say the least.
I am now old and cooted. Just passing stuff forward. Hope you do not take this wrong. Nobody uses iron sights today. Mostly optics.