Factory vs home rolled ammo

[fstdraw]

I don't normally buy expensive "Target Grade" ammo. I did purchase some 55 and 69 gr. .223 Winchester Varmint X/Matchking HPBT Target ammo. I'm going out in the morning and set up a 50 yard target and a benchrest and compare this to my own 70 gr. and 55 gr. loads. Is this a good way to compare mine to their's?

I'm doing this to compare my .25 reloads to the $2.00 factory loads. I'm probably going to use my BCM RECCE and a 1-4 power scope. Suggestions are appreciated.

Thank you.

Read More

 

[RVTECH]

Is this a good way to compare mine to their's?

Well, no other way to do it than with an actual side by side shooting test.

Just make sure you equate all of your shooting similarly, IE rest, hold trigger pull and use the same style target for both rounds.

I'll be interested in seeing your results !

 

[3MTA3]

If you work up loads for your rifle, then you will likely get better results with the hand loads. Otherwise, the factory rounds will likely work better. Interested in what you find.

 

[Longwalkhome]

Every component you use in the ammo you assemble comes from a factory. You assemble it to fit your needs while the factory assembles ammo to fit everyone's general use. Given everything works as it should there can be great satisfaction in building your own personal load.

It's a great hobby, one of the best.

 

[3MTA3]

Every component you use in the ammo you assemble comes from a factory. You assemble it to fit your needs while the factory assembles ammo to fit everyone's general use. Given everything works as it should there can be great satisfaction in building your own personal load.

It's a great hobby, one of the best.

I feel more "connected" when I use my hand loads, the same with fishing when I use a pole I built or home made lures. Definitely enhances the experience for me.

 

[Longwalkhome]

I feel more "connected" when I use my hand loads, the same with fishing when I use a pole I built or home made lures. Definitely enhances the experience for me.

If a man likes the hobby he can learn a great deal of useful habits loading your own. Like the guy that ties his own flies you build ammo for what you intend it to do. A lot of pride comes from being able to shoot better while making your own ammo.

 

[deadeye]

I don't normally buy expensive "Target Grade" ammo. I did purchase some 55 and 69 gr. .223 Winchester Varmint X/Matchking HPBT Target ammo. I'm going out in the morning and set up a 50 yard target and a benchrest and compare this to my own 70 gr. and 55 gr. loads. Is this a good way to compare mine to their's?

I'm doing this to compare my .25 reloads to the $2.00 factory loads. I'm probably going to use my BCM RECCE and a 1-4 power scope. Suggestions are appreciated.

Thank you.

As RV said equate your shooting between the two and also let the barrel cool and clean it between as well. I have a feeling yours will run better ( I wont say the old standard of running rings around the factory cause we wouldnt want that).......

The Federal Gold Medal Match 69gr hp was what I used for deer when I hunted with a Bushmaster heavy barrel and it could do a five shot group in a dime size @100yrds. The tactical police and target federal were the same just packaged different IMO. Not a problem replicating it with my loads just have to use a trickler and good scale with proper components.

 

[RVTECH]

I have a feeling yours will run better ( I wont say the old standard of running rings around the factory cause we wouldnt want that).......

And with any luck they WILL run better.

I rarely have the option to compare factory ammo with my own as there are typically no factory rounds that are similar to what I normally reload - so all I can relate to is the accuracy of my own loads however I can honestly say I have never experienced factory ammo to ever be better than my reloads - regardless of caliber or load.

 

[deadeye]

And with any luck they WILL run better.

I rarely have the option to compare factory ammo with my own as there are typically no factory rounds that are similar to what I normally reload - so all I can relate to is the accuracy of my own loads however I can honestly say I have never experienced factory ammo to ever be better than my reloads - regardless of caliber or load.

Same here. My plinkers for 44mag using Xtreme's / blue dot and just the Lee auto disk measure are like match ammo compared to winchester, remington etc. and a heck of alot cheaper. Found that out using marlin lever and Ruger deerslayer while sighting in. Mainly go for consistency on hits too, havnt found a 243 55gr factory that goes 4,000fps for that comparison either......LOL. Even my levrolution 30-30 will most likely be better but I wont waste the money or time trying to find that unicorn right now, just making my own.

 

[P7M13]

Home rolled vs. factory is a no-brainer.
I never thought tuning loads for pistol was necessary until I ran out of Titegroup and tried a bunch of different powders and loads in my 45.
Recently worked up 6 load groups of 40 S&W, 5.8 to 6.8 gr of Autocomp under a 170gr FP at 1.125 OAL.
All shooting done offhand at 25 yards (TCGC Pistol Range, 1st berm). The standouts were 6.4gr and 6.6gr, targets shown.
The rest looked like spatter paint.



If I add up *ONLY* the cost of what I paid for the components, these rounds cost ~14¢ apiece.
Edit to add: I used to use Power Pistol for my 40 and 10mm but like an idiot, traded it away for SRP. I find Autocomp is almost a 1:1 equivalent load weight-wise, but waayyy dirtier.

 

[ron]

I have spent a lot of time accuracy testing AR rifles. First I think you should try 100 yards with your 4X scope.
Use a big enough target you can see it well no mater what distance you use. Some types of powder do not
play well with others. After switching from different powder loads it may take several rounds to settle down
and shoot well. That is why cleaning between change of loads is important. Shoot your best ammo out of
a hot barrel you will see the group size open up. I have found different barrels prefer different bullet types.
Factory Match ammo will shoot well in some or maybe most ARs but not all. All the rifles I have tested, 20"
with a 1/8 or faster twist prefer 77 SMK over the 69 SMK. I have tested a couple different 1/9 ARs that
shoot the 69s sub MOA.

 

[Koda]

I don't normally buy expensive "Target Grade" ammo. I did purchase some 55 and 69 gr. .223 Winchester Varmint X/Matchking HPBT Target ammo. I'm going out in the morning and set up a 50 yard target and a benchrest and compare this to my own 70 gr. and 55 gr. loads. Is this a good way to compare mine to their's?

I'm doing this to compare my .25 reloads to the $2.00 factory loads. I'm probably going to use my BCM RECCE and a 1-4 power scope. Suggestions are appreciated.

Thank you.

I would chrono them both and compare standard deviations and accuracy at 100yds instead of 50. Im curious what the reason is for comparing your reloads to factory loads?

 

[fstdraw]

I'll try 100 yds as well. I will clean between bullet and powder changes. I've got all day so time is not an issue. This type of therapy is clean and drug free.

Every round of .223/5.56 I load (too many to remember) I'd like to think could save a life with it's dependability and accuracy. Or take a bit of small game if needed. I want definite proof I'm doing it correctly. I'm no spring chicken, so better late than never. I want to leave good recipes for my children to follow.

I tend to use H335 and BL C 2 for 90% of my loads. Plunkers for sure but with a nose for the 10 ring.

 

[Koda]

I'll try 100 yds as well. I will clean between bullet and powder changes. I've got all day so time is not an issue. This type of therapy is clean and drug free.

Every round of .223/5.56 I load (too many to remember) I'd like to think could save a life with it's dependability and accuracy. Or take a bit of small game if needed. I want definite proof I'm doing it correctly. I'm no spring chicken, so better late than never. I want to leave good recipes for my children to follow.

I tend to use H335 and BL C 2 for 90% of my loads. Plunkers for sure but with a nose for the 10 ring.

I dont think I would compare your handload to a factory load then. In my experience factory ammo is all over the place with accuracy, Ive had low end budget factory ammo shoot more accurate than premium "match grade" ammo I paid good money for.
If you want to know if your handloading correctly, then just compare it to your expecations and needs for that round. If you might varmit hunt with it, then I would look for 1MOA accuracy or better as a baseline.

 

[fstdraw]

Koda, good point. With most of my reloads I expect "clay Pigeon" accuracy at 100 yards, that's what I get. I'd really like to develop a good 200 yard 70 gr. load, I'm on my way to doing that. For tomorrow's testing, I'm only doing a comparison of my average loads vs Winchester's $2.00 shells. I will do my level best to keep all perimeters equal.

 

[oremike]

Rather than shoot a bunch of different factory ammo to find the load I want I buy one box of factory ammo to get the scope close to zero and get a benchmark. Then build the load to the rifle and to do what I want it to do.

 

[RedRover]

Accuracy is really about replication and repetition. Obviously, every round being as unvarying as possible to maintain a narrow standard deviation...

Rifle barrels have a certain harmonic when firing a projectile. This slight wave produced causes the muzzle to oscillate. Less so with a heavier (bull)barrel.

The key to fine tuning accuracy(rather consistency); the bullet is exiting the muzzle when it is as it would be at rest. Slightly faster projectile, the muzzle might be slightly low in the vibration cycle. Slightly slower projectile, and the muzzle might be slightly high when the bullet exits the crown. Now of course, sighting in one's optic, it will be dialed so that POA lines up with POI related to the particular ammo load one is using. Yet, If the pressures are widely variant, the groups will invariably open up.

This is where finding that unique harmonic signature is key. Sure one can get fortunate and find a factory ammo batch that jives, but generally a load has to be customized for every unique barrel. One's own custom load that has been paired with a rifle and then replicated to near perfection will almost always be more consistent than a factory load; where even match-grade loads may have looser tolerances.

 

[kmk1012]

Koda, good point. With most of my reloads I expect "clay Pigeon" accuracy at 100 yards, that's what I get. I'd really like to develop a good 200 yard 70 gr. load, I'm on my way to doing that. For tomorrow's testing, I'm only doing a comparison of my average loads vs Winchester's $2.00 shells. I will do my level best to keep all perimeters equal.

Just curious where you're going to test them. I'm headed out with some testing to do myself at FCGC, I'll be there with a couple "mufflers" too. Hope to see you there in the early afternoon if that's where you're headed.

 

[BigGame]

If your choice set is between hand loading or buying factory, test against factory as you suggest and see which meets your accuracy threshold. If you're looking to build the most accurate possible, compare your hand load results against your own expectations tempered by what you hear from other hand loaders building similar loads.

Your question gets to the core of why people hand load. Some want the most efficient route to a reasonable load and then the search is over. Others enjoy continuously tinkering to explore possible outcomes. Your call.

 

[Longwalkhome]

It's a study and trial process that brings a lot of satisfaction when you get good groups. A good tool is a chronograph to compare velocities to group size. I have used a cheap Crony chronograph for decades to check new loads and it's saved so much guessing about how close to factory velocities you are.

Have a great day.