Electrical power inside safe

[2A2Dend]

I want to add a couple plug-ins inside the safe. I thought about using a small power strip. My only issue is having to cut (not a deal breaker) the power cord so it can be ran through the access hole in the back, then use butt connectors (or solder and shrink wrap) to get it back together. I've never thought very highly of splicing like that. If anyone has a better solution,

I'm all ears.

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[66PonyCar]

Cut the male plug from the outlet strip. Thread the cord through the hole in the back of the safe. Then use a male electrical plug which you can buy at Home Depot. You don't need to splice wires just screw them into the terminals in the plug.

 

[2A2Dend]

You don't need to splice wires just screw them into the terminals in the plug.

I got a few on hand. Those are a little overkill, but doable.
I may stop by the hardware store to see what other options I have.

I really hate to do it for a neat package. Considering the cost of materials, I could make something similar (just won't be as purdy) for less than $10. Stack-On Electrical Cord Accessory Kit SPAE-1401 - Miscellaneous Safe Accessories

 

[etrain16]

As an electrician, I would strongly advise against the butt-splice option - it would be our last choice in the field - more susceptible to failure. Much better option to put a new cord cap on as 66ponycar suggested.

If I were doing it, I would buy some SO cord at Home Depot, set a 4" square electrical box in the safe, install some GFCI receptacles with an industrial cover and call it good. That way I could run the length of cord I wanted.

 

[ThePhonMan]

Home Depot also has some right-angle male plugs now that have the cord exit the plug from the side so they sit more flush when plugged into the wall. That's what I used for my safe.

 

[2A2Dend]

@etrain16, I feel what your saying. I think the same way. The dang stuff made specifically for safes is rediculous expensive

 

[etrain16]

@etrain16, I feel what your saying. I think the same way. The dang stuff made specifically for safes is rediculous expensive

Yes, it is. I was fortunate in that my safe came pre-wired, so no drilling, etc.

 

[2A2Dend]

The hole and trim kit are already there. I just need to get the juice inside.

 

[2A2Dend]

Juice is ran in series using shallow, single gang boxes (one standard w/grnd receptacle. One plug for Golden Rod, one plug for 12v converter)
Now comes the fun. 12v LED lighting.

I researched LED (cool white) lighting to the point I'm frustrated.
Materials needed

Total length needed is 30ft +/- (x2). The more LEDs/ft the better.
A 12v power source is needed.
Motion sensor (PIR) is preferred.
Plug connectors are fine. I can solder as well.

I'm open for suggestions fellas
Thanks

 

[Stomper]

The hole and trim kit are already there. I just need to get the juice inside.

Boy HOWDY.... that is one RIPE target of terminology that I could POUNCE on right there....


But I'll just settle for a....



That's what she said.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

You can't go wrong with the reels of LED's sold on Amazon, cheap, bright, overkill in most cases

I have two things i'm missing for my lighting, power anywhere near the safe (need electrician) and the adaptor for the 12v, i bought my LED's a couple of years ago, all the reels now have power bricks.

 

[2A2Dend]

@Stomper

We're fresh out. Check the motel down the street. LOL

 

[Stomper]

Can't... no black light to conduct a prelim on the bedding!

 

[2A2Dend]

Check the cat-walk!!

 

[2A2Dend]

After plenty of research on the subject of lighting, I bought these items. Cost was a little over $50
LED Strip Lights
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WQFP3AO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power Supply
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K71VMCW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Corner Connectors
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DM7F052/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Inline On/Off Switch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FT4RBBM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

You might like this option instead of or as well as the inline switch

IR Proximity Sensor On-Off Switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H28RK4...UTF8&colid=W4SAAA0A9CML&coliid=I1KY20Q76WQDKC

 

[Joe13]

As an electrician, I would strongly advise against the butt-splice option - it would be our last choice in the field - more susceptible to failure. Much better option to put a new cord cap on as 66ponycar suggested.

If I were doing it, I would buy some SO cord at Home Depot, set a 4" square electrical box in the safe, install some GFCI receptacles with an industrial cover and call it good. That way I could run the length of cord I wanted.

Only thing I would change is to put the GFCI on the outside of the safe (in the wall outlet) just incase for some strange reason the wire wore thru and electrified the whole safe.

And probably just glue a power outlet strip inside.

 

[Joe13]

I have a 4,000 lb safe that has 8" of steel on every single side, top and bottom...

Every time I recharge the dehumidifiers I think about adding power but then decide against it lol.

 

[2A2Dend]

@F2CMaDMaXX
I knew I forgot something. Darn it!

 

[2A2Dend]

I have a 4,000 lb safe that has 8" of steel on every single side, top and bottom...

Every time I recharge the dehumidifiers I think about adding power but then decide against it lol.

Rent a mag-drill