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Desperate Times: 357 SIG

Discussion in 'Ammunition & Reloading' started by TheGameMaster, Feb 21, 2013.

  1. TheGameMaster

    TheGameMaster Portland, OR Member

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    DO NOT DO THIS!!!! DO NOT DO THIS

    That said; I've been loading .38 cal. berrey's bullets into, reformed for 357SIG, .40 S&W brass using Federal Magnum small pistol primers, using 6gr. of Bullseye powder. It works for me in my LWD conversion barrels in my Glock 29 and Glock 27. No bullet set back with those .357 plated bullets and fairly accurate at 50ft.

    lBUT DO NOT DO IT! DO NOT BE ME!
     
  2. ridnjon

    ridnjon vancouver wa Active Member

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    What are you missing?
     
  3. P7id10T

    P7id10T Cedar Hills Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    Believe me, I won't. My CZ75 in 40smith does the job very well. :cool:
     
  4. gehrheart

    gehrheart fidalgo island Well-Known Member

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    Seems like way much work..
    Ill stick with my 45.

    Good luck!!
     
  5. quneur

    quneur Mukilteo, Wa Member

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    Too bad you're in Portland. I have a box of Winchester white box of 357 Sig I mistakenly bought at Wallmart. It was the only 357 box behind the counter so I immediately told the sales person, "I'll buy it!" Walked out the store, took a peak and noticed it said Sig and not Mag.

    They wouldn't accept returns on ammo.
     
  6. P7id10T

    P7id10T Cedar Hills Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    I have some 357 sig brass you can have for a cup of coffee....
     
  7. XSubSailor

    XSubSailor SW WA Active Member

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    I am fat on .357Sig reloading components...I use 122g cast lead bullets and 7.5g of Power Pistol. I bought a ton of 357Sig brass for $6/100 about a year ago (mostly speer w/ some win).

    It's the cheapest caliber I reload other than 9mm. My cost to reload a box of 50 is $4.72.
     
  8. misplacedtexan

    misplacedtexan Beaverton, OR Active Member

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    shoot, I'm having trouble getting my brass sized down enough to fire in my XD after it goes through my S&W. Still waiting on a lee factory crimp die/bulge buster to see if that solves the issue.
     
  9. AMProducts

    AMProducts Maple Valley, WA Jerk, Ammo Manufacturer Silver Supporter

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    Try running it through a .40 S&W carbide sizer first...
     
  10. bballer182

    bballer182 Molalla Active Member

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    ^^^this
     
  11. P7id10T

    P7id10T Cedar Hills Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    Texan, if you have a case bulge at the bottom, post a picture please. I usually sort out the bulging ones.
    Does your M&P have an unsupported chamber, ala Glocks?
     
  12. misplacedtexan

    misplacedtexan Beaverton, OR Active Member

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    I'm assuming the MP does not have the supported chamber, and its not really noticeable by eye. I think my problem lies in the MP has a loose chamber and my XD has a tight chamber. XD's are apparently known for having pretty tight chambers. The MP shot brass is .425-.426 around and some factory I have that loads is at a .420
     
  13. AMProducts

    AMProducts Maple Valley, WA Jerk, Ammo Manufacturer Silver Supporter

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    If you suspect a tight chamber issue... when you're re-forming the brass, the walls of the casing will thicken as you constrict it. The way to check this would first, take a loaded round and check the thickness of the cartridge at the neck, here's the saami spec:

    http://www.saami.org/PubResources/CC_Drawings/Pistol/357 Sig.pdf

    If it is thicker, using a ball micrometer: Amazon.com: RCBS Vernier Ball Micrometer: Sports & Outdoors
    can help you find the thickness of the neck wall, if it's too thick (probably) you will have to thin it out, the two popular options are neck turning, and reaming. On the up-side McMaster-Carr has reamers of every size in steps of .0005" if that size is less than 1"

    McMaster-Carr

    To determine reamer size, I would take a real .357 sig case, measure the inside after sizing, and ream to that dimension.
     
  14. AMProducts

    AMProducts Maple Valley, WA Jerk, Ammo Manufacturer Silver Supporter

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    If you suspect a tight chamber issue... when you're re-forming the brass, the walls of the casing will thicken as you constrict it. The way to check this would first, take a loaded round and check the thickness of the cartridge at the neck, here's the saami spec:

    http://www.saami.org/PubResources/CC_Drawings/Pistol/357 Sig.pdf

    If it is thicker, using a ball micrometer: Amazon.com: RCBS Vernier Ball Micrometer: Sports & Outdoors
    can help you find the thickness of the neck wall, if it's too thick (probably) you will have to thin it out, the two popular options are neck turning, and reaming. On the up-side McMaster-Carr has reamers of every size in steps of .0005" if that size is less than 1"

    McMaster-Carr

    To determine reamer size, I would take a real .357 sig case, measure the inside after sizing, and ream to that dimension.
     
  15. misplacedtexan

    misplacedtexan Beaverton, OR Active Member

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    Empty brass doesn't even chamber. Brass OD is below SAAMI specs UNTIL the last 1/8th inch of the cartridge. That last little bit is keeping the XD from going into battery.

    Tried a 40 S&W undersized sizing die, but it doesn't reach that bottom bit. Going to use the bulge buster because it will push the entire brass casing through the die. Hoping that solves the problem.
     
  16. AMProducts

    AMProducts Maple Valley, WA Jerk, Ammo Manufacturer Silver Supporter

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    Depending on what sizing die you are using, IIRC some of the RCBS sizing dies when you remove the plug that holds in the decapping assembly you can push a casing completely through, you just need a mandrel to do it with. Alternatively, you can simply drill out the top of the die. I would recommend doing it on a lathe, but a drillpress would work if you had a stable vice and used low speeds and lots of oil.
     
  17. misplacedtexan

    misplacedtexan Beaverton, OR Active Member

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    I actually spent quite a bit of time going back and forth on it today. I'm actually thinking it's not bumping the should back far enough. RCBS dies are apparently known for this....it's new to me though. Going to swing by a machine shop tomorrow and have them take .050 off the bottom of the die. Should set the shoulder back far enough then.
     
  18. misplacedtexan

    misplacedtexan Beaverton, OR Active Member

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    Did the .050 shaving on my RCBS sizing die. Brass chambers. BUT now I think I have burrs on the leading edge of the die. Heading back down to the shop to see if they can bevel the leading edge some. It's actually shaving some brass off the bottom 1/8th inch of the cases that go through it. I have a Lee 40 S&W sizing die, so all I need out of my 357 sig die is to bump the shoulder.

    And ideas on polish the inside of the die to remove the burrs? I'm thinking some super fine wet/dry sandpaper maybe...1000 grit or higher?
     
  19. AMProducts

    AMProducts Maple Valley, WA Jerk, Ammo Manufacturer Silver Supporter

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    Typically when I retool dies like that, I'll take a carbide chip cutting tool, and do my best to eyeball a radius on the mouth and then I'll start with 200 grit, followed by 400 and then 600. 600 is about the finest you need to go with most die projects, bullet making dies can be another story.

    If you need to work inside the die one trick is to make a "lead lap". Find some lead wire, and with the die in the lathe put the lead wire into the tailstock put some valve grinding compound on it, and then put some cutting oil in the die, and at slow speed force the lead wire into the die, be sure not to overgrind!

    This trick works really well on steel dies that have brass buildup and are scratching cases.
     
  20. bballer182

    bballer182 Molalla Active Member

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    Replace the decapping stem with some all thread. Chuck it in a drill and use some 1000 grit. Then polish with a dremel and buffing wheel and jewlers rouge