Desperate Times: 357 SIG

[AMProducts]

Typically when I retool dies like that, I'll take a carbide chip cutting tool, and do my best to eyeball a radius on the mouth and then I'll start with 200 grit, followed by 400 and then 600. 600 is about the finest you need to go with most die projects, bullet making dies can be another story.

If you need to work inside the die one trick is to make a "lead lap". Find some lead wire, and with the die in the lathe put the lead wire into the tailstock put some valve grinding compound on it, and then put some cutting oil in the die, and at slow speed force the lead wire into the die, be sure not to overgrind!

This trick works really well on steel dies that have brass buildup and are scratching cases.

 

[misplacedtexan]

So this is what my brass is looking like now. This is after running through the Lee 40 "undersized" sizing die. If I don't size before hand it shaves the entire case. I'm hoping when the bulge buster shows up, it will eliminate the shaving...

If not, I'm going to shave the last bit of the inside of the die off inside so it stops shaving.

 

[misplacedtexan]

Problem solved!

Someone, not sure if this forum or thehighroad.org, mentioned the chamfer still having sharp edges. 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper, power drill (to spin die), and 15 minutes later no more shaving, shoulders set back, brass chambers!

ABOUT TIME

 

[AMProducts]

it was me, post #21 on this thread

 

[bballer182]

We posted exact same time on post #19 and #20. Same basic idea.

 

[misplacedtexan]

Everyone gets a shiny star and a pat on the back for the ideas!

 

[TheGameMaster]

I have read about some RCBS dies for 357 SIG being too tall for the shoulders. But my set works great. I run the brass through my Lymann 10mm sizer first without the decapping pin in, then the RCBC sizer/decapper/expander, then after they are all loaded I run them back trough the RCBS sizer die without the decappjng pin in. It works great for me. I have a Lee Factory Crimp die for 357 SIG, but its worthless as even the smallest amount of crimp kills your neck tention and causes set back. It was a waste of money and time as I have had to pull and reload every round I have ever used it on.

 

[XSubSailor]

FWIW-

I have a 5 station Hornady LnL and this is my die setup for 357Sig

Station 1: Redding TiC 40S&W sizing die (Redding's surface finish from their Titanium Carbide dies can't be beat). This carbide die eliminates the need to use size lube.
Station 2: Hornady 357Sig sizing die w/ decapping pin removed...to bump the shoulder and neck size.
Station 3: PTX and powder charge
Station 4: Hornady 357Sig Seating Die
Station 5: Lee 357Sig Factory Crimp Die...reluctantly, but the only way I can consistently prevent setback.

 

[misplacedtexan]

The RCBS dies worked great UNTIL I added a second pistol in 357 sig. My M&P has a longer chamber than the XD does, and the dies were not setting the shoulder back enough, or at all.

Had a local shop lathe off .050 on the base, chamfer the new edge.
Chucked the die in a drill, and held some 600 grit paper to it for 10 minutes. Glass smooth finish, works like a new die.

RCBS still denies their product was out of spec...even when I linked them with all the cases I've found (which wasn't hard to find a handful). Think I'm going to start seeing more red on my bench and less green