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I don't think the copper colored grease that Glock puts on their firearms in the factory is the same as copper colored anti-seize.
maybe its not? i was just sayin i put copper anti sieze where the factory grease is. :D

from a post before it showing locktite c5a is the glock grease which is copper anti sieze.
 
I clean it off. I hate anti-size.
You get around that stuff and the next thing you know, it's on your fingers. The tip of your nose. Your left ear. And finally your pecker before you notice it's spread. :D

I only put it on my Glocks right before I sell them.
You know? So I can tell prospective buyers ''I only shot two mags through it''. :s0140:
 
I use Locktite's high temp stainless steel anti-seize # LB 77164 for my .22 Sparrow suppressor.
I coat the inside of the removable baffle and clam shells to help with the lead fouling cleanup.

henkel-loctite-nickel-grade-gray-1lb_431x431.jpg
 
1911s run wet. Glocks run dry. Well almost.

Too many people that haven't read the manual overlube their Glocks. 3 drops of oil are all that is required:
1. One drop of superlube spread out on the metal slide rails.
2. One drop of Remoil with Teflon on the barrel.
3. Most importantly, one drop of oil at the trigger bar/connector junction per Figure 14 in the manual above :). I like to use Tetra flouropolymer penetrating gun grease here and under the barrel lug since it doesn't attract dirt.

I examine my Glock 34 after every shoot, but it rarely needs the barrel cleaned because I only shoot copper plated or jacketed. (I learned the hard way, with my first Glock, about polygonal barrels and a complete stoppage of my Glock 19 after months of shooting with Lasercast silver alloy boolitts. :rolleyes:)
 
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I clean it off. I hate anti-size.
You get around that stuff and the next thing you know, it's on your fingers. The tip of your nose. Your left ear. And finally your pecker before you notice it's spread. :D

I only put it on my Glocks right before I sell them.
You know? So I can tell prospective buyers ''I only shot two mags through it''. :s0140:

Only reason I know for sure it wasn't over a mag or two is besides the grease not being fully there (like a fresh application) the barrel has no signs of marring and the barrel hood doesn't even have slide wear yet. It was in pretty much a brand new state except for a little copper that you can see was working it way off. The dude who sold it didn't like how 10mm felt in his wrist.
 
I can't shoot 10mm cuz of my arthritis. But I did see a vid showing how the Glock flexes and compared to all-metal 10mm pistol may have less perceived recoil?
 
Im sure in about 20 years ill be in the same boat. Goddamned 82nd airborne took my body and my soul lol. For now at least when it comes to my shooting recoil is all relative to my experience with the gun. I'm sure after some range time I'll be just as proficient with this as I am with any other of my weapons I edc. At least till I get that Sig p320 rx compact in from back order ;)
 
I've heard from most that it's best to leave it.
In the Glock armorers course they said to leave it until it wears off if possible and then when it is all gone maintain normally. They said it's the best thing to break it in (if you actually believe a flock needs to be broken in).
I have no reason to argue with the corporate Glock guy so I leave it for at least the first few trips out unless it rains or something and I really need to or wanna clean it.
 
the GSSF armorer at their matches have told me numerous times, that 'too many people over lube their Glocks'.

In normal use, I've never seen my own Gl*cks ever need more than minimal any kind of care. In fact, they sort of redefine what the entire concept of 'cleaning' really is.

There are a very few points that need but a touch of lube now & then. Check the factory manual & you'll be surprised how little ANY maintenance care (compared to such as 1911 models) any Gl*ck really needs.
 

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