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Glocks are like V8 engines, they will run without lube, but not for long. A decent oiling prior to first use will get them going properly, it is important to oil the little connector at the back, it is the point of highest friction in the gun. A little on the barrel, the top inside the slide, a little on the rails and you are good. That copper stuff is there to break in those parts in the event there is a tiny burr that the factory missed. I used to be a police instructor many years ago, we oiled them prior to transition classes then proceeded to fire 1000 rounds or more without cleaning again. I never saw one go down after being oiled a bit. I did, however, see a couple that failed to fire when the connector was dry.
 
yeah so I recently delved into this and workers inside the Glock plant say it is indeed the loktite C5A and that its actually the silica in that anti seize that "polishes" the frame tabs perfectly to each individual slide. That's mainly why they used such a unorthodox lube. Personally I left mine on for about 200 rounds cleaned it all off. I use sentry solutions dry moly lube on all my babies. And I've heard Glocks in particular are known for leaving a "moon" wear pattern on the top of the barrel where the slide rubs against it. Occasionally where appropriate I use "CRC synthetic brake grease" you already trust your life to it every single day in your car so why not trust your life to it. In your EDC.. it's a blend of PTFE particles, graphite, and Moly the three slickest substances known to mankind. Don't remember what the base stocks are though. Can be looked up in the ol' msds.

Good luck;)
 
Even if you use gold stippled grease. It's still a Glock. Probably gonna run.

I've been using Tetra gun grease lately and it stays in place nice, cleans up easy and seems to keep wear down. Grease the parts that slide oil the parts that move. On my pistols anyway. Never had a problems with just CLP , but just trying something else and liking it. Anti seize is good stuff and stays in place a long time. Steel sparkplugs in an aluminum block to prevent galling use anti seize. A bit thicker than I use on my firearms.
 
Even if you use gold stippled grease. It's still a Glock. Probably gonna run.

I've been using Tetra gun grease lately and it stays in place nice, cleans up easy and seems to keep wear down. Grease the parts that slide oil the parts that move. On my pistols anyway. Never had a problems with just CLP , but just trying something else and liking it. Anti seize is good stuff and stays in place a long time. Steel sparkplugs in an aluminum block to prevent galling use anti seize. A bit thicker than I use on my firearms.
Off topic.. but since you said it, you should never EVER use any lubricant on spark plugs. If they are galling something else is wrong.. anti seize isn't the answer. Besides grease on the wire boots so they don't weld on over time. Anti seize on spark plugs WILL result in over torquing. Or if you go by the typical 1/16 turn it will probably work itself out due to reduced friction. They have built in anti seize and need clean metal to metal contact to wick the heat away from the plug..

I've heard Brian Enos slide glide is the undisputed king of pistol grease but it's not cheap and a bit too nice for a Glock. Lol. More for guns that actually need it like your higher tolerance race 1911's and such.
 
Also I'm about to drop a new trigger in this G29 tomorrow. Took it shooting a few days before. While I have it dismantled for the trigger drop in should I give it a detail clean in the frame area? Or just remove the current trigger and put in the new one and lube at the points stated above?
 
I have heard different arguments to this, but I trust you guys more.

I have a G29 I'm bringing to the range on Friday and it still has the copper grease from Glock in the guts of it.

Before I go to the range I usually lube the barrel of my firearms the night before and let it sit for the next day.

Should I pre lube this barrel as well? Should I give it a normal cleaning before?

Note the gun was used when I bought it but only had a mag or two ran through it.

Ive also heard that I shouldn't clean the copper off until it comes off its self?

The military in me makes me clean my fire arms after every session, but I know Glock has its own virtues people like to follow. Any thoughts?
Leave the factory grease until it wears off. DO follow the Glock lube instructions in the owner's manual - see page 46 at: https://us.glock.com/documents/gun_maintenance.pdf
 
You've obviously never owned a 5.4L V8

Drpepper says
Off topic.. but since you said it, you should never EVER use any lubricant on spark plugs. If they are galling something else is wrong.. anti seize isn't the answer. Besides grease on the wire boots so they don't weld on over time. Anti seize on spark plugs WILL result in over torquing. Or if you go by the typical 1/16 turn it will probably work itself out due to reduced friction. They have built in anti seize and need clean metal to metal contact to wick the heat away from the plug..

I say

On the threads only. I have used anti-seize on many jobs not just spark plugs. Same on my bikes.

This is Permatex description for use. :eek:

AutomobileSuggested Applications: For easy removal of spark plugs, cylinder head and exhaust head bolts; apply to anchor pins on brake assemblies, u-bolts and spring bolts, hinges, gears, chain, sprockets and rollers.MotorcycleSuggested Applications: Axle assemblyHeavy DutySuggested Applications: Prevents seizing and galling of all metals on chassis and engines. Withstands temperatures up to 1600°F.MarineSuggested Applications: For easy removal of spark plugs, cylinder head and exhaust head bolts - See more at: Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant - Permatex
 
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You've obviously never owned a 5.4L V8
You are correct, I don't buy Ford POS's and that sounds like the most idiotic head design. I have to wonder what kind of person would support backwoods engineering like that..
And I seriously have to wonder why you would EVER KEEP anything like that. But nice assumptions.. I own a 1969 Pontiac 5.7L, a 98 Honda Civic that can very easily be tuned to make more power out of a 1.8 liter than your V8. I specifically pick my cars to be easy to work on.. I witnessed Ford's engineering years ago and will never buy one again.
Thanks for proving my point though.. because OBVIOUSLY if there was supposed to be anti seize on them...You think Ford woulda used it at the factory? They are a pita because there isn't supposed to be any. And its a sh*t design. So sell your pos and be done with it. Shouldn't defend a poop design.
But I've seen this so often and worked in so many shops were even the owners are so retarded that as a standard I don't ever let anyone work on my vehicles.
Good luck though. o_O
 
Drpepper says
Off topic.. but since you said it, you should never EVER use any lubricant on spark plugs. If they are galling something else is wrong.. anti seize isn't the answer. Besides grease on the wire boots so they don't weld on over time. Anti seize on spark plugs WILL result in over torquing. Or if you go by the typical 1/16 turn it will probably work itself out due to reduced friction. They have built in anti seize and need clean metal to metal contact to wick the heat away from the plug..

I say

On the threads only. I have used anti-seize on many jobs not just spark plugs. Same on my bikes.

This is Permatex description for use. :eek:

AutomobileSuggested Applications: For easy removal of spark plugs, cylinder head and exhaust head bolts; apply to anchor pins on brake assemblies, u-bolts and spring bolts, hinges, gears, chain, sprockets and rollers.MotorcycleSuggested Applications: Axle assemblyHeavy DutySuggested Applications: Prevents seizing and galling of all metals on chassis and engines. Withstands temperatures up to 1600°F.MarineSuggested Applications: For easy removal of spark plugs, cylinder head and exhaust head bolts - See more at: Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant - Permatex
I'm surprised they don't say you can use it for PB&J sandwich's you do get they are trying to sell the stuff.. back in the day they used to use stuff like that for those applications but nowadays technologies have improved (for the most part) and so have processes. I use anti seize alot, I have many different kinds.. tons of different extreme pressure and assembly lubes for use with presses and interference fits.
If you want to prove me wrong show where the manufacturer of the engine or the plug maker tells you to use anti seize.
 
I'm surprised they don't say you can use it for PB&J sandwich's you do get they are trying to sell the stuff.. back in the day they used to use stuff like that for those applications but nowadays technologies have improved (for the most part) and so have processes. I use anti seize alot, I have many different kinds.. tons of different extreme pressure and assembly lubes for use with presses and interference fits.
If you want to prove me wrong show where the manufacturer of the engine or the plug maker tells you to use anti seize.


What ever works for you. I and many good mechanics have been doing it for years. Just a dab will do. A little goes a long way.
You caught me off guard about greasing the boots and lubricant on plugs and the NEVER EVER do what permatex recommends. :D
 

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