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Thank you for getting back to me.
There are a couple of things I was trying to help with.
I jumped in when you wrote that you were working on accuracy.
For years I have known that swaging creates a small problem with
accuracy. When I saw the picture you posted of the round that did not go off but the primer did it was perfect in that it showed the dark pattern of what happened. If the round had gone off, the brass would have hit the face of the bolt and flattened the brass around the pocket and the prof
would have been lost. I guess as a bench guy I am to much of a perfectionist. It comes with that sport. The thing about cutting the brass is you only have to do it once in the life of the brass and it does not mess with the concentricity of the pocket. The tips are not expensive and can be used by hand or drill press. I too am working with 223 trying to get more precision out of a round that was never designed for my kind of of accuracy. Also working with the N140, N135 family and some ball powder. If I can help please don't hesitate to ask. I sure don't know everything, but been doing it a bit longer than the average bear.
 
A pole on the National Match Competition Forum lists the 7 1/2 Remington as the #1 primer used by competitors.
The Rem. 7 1/2 are by far the most popular primer for Highpower rifle competition shooting. The 77 SMK and
24.1 of N140 is a popular load that I have been using for several years now. I would agree with others about
the flash hole plugged or a bad primer. It does happen. I have never had a bad 7 1/2 Rem. primer but had some
Winchester large rifle primers fail.
Different strokes for different folks. I'm glad you've had good luck with them. My go-to primer is CCI. I used Winchester for many years, started having the occasional piercing issue with those so quit buying them.
 
I don't own a tool that can cut out the crimp,
I've used one of those little "rocket ship" shaped deburring / chamfering tools sold by RCBS. Chucked into a drill press. There is just enough metal on the butt end shaft for the chuck to grab onto. Easy does it. The deburring tool cuts the edge off the original crimp.
 
I figured out how to make deburring easy: Note that there are threads
in the hole. They are just the size of a 223 neck. when the 223 goes into the hole the threads grab it so it does not try to twist. Run at low RPM
Hole is lined up with the cutter, perfect every time.

IMG_0216.jpg
 
That looks like a nice setup. Especially the part about not having to grip each case securely and hold them in consistent alignment. I ordered this RCBS tool and should have it in a week or so.
 
I figured out how to make deburring easy: Note that there are threads
in the hole. They are just the size of a 223 neck. when the 223 goes into the hole the threads grab it so it does not try to twist. Run at low RPM
Hole is lined up with the cutter, perfect every time.

View attachment 1789469
Question?....Does that cutter bottom out in the primer pocket? Cleaning it in the process? I use a swage because I'm leery of cutting more, or less than needed, from the pocket rim lessening the metal in the side of the pocket.
Casual off-bag shooter here.
 
That looks like a nice setup. Especially the part about not having to grip each case securely and hold them in consistent alignment. I ordered this RCBS tool and should have it in a week or so.
I used to use one of these...

THEN, I stumbled on a lightly used RCBS case prep center...
1703694555419.png

Oh man, my fingers and wrists thank me. And the tools in the other one work on it just fine.
 
Hi Mike,
I took a picture of what it does. You can go to deep and cut the bottom
but you don't want to, it does not take much to cut just enough without
touching the bottom. I set a stop on the Miller I have an electric stiff metal
Bruch that cleans the pockets. Some cases need a little more depth than others due to the factory crimp.

IMG_0224.jpg
 
it does not take much to cut just enough without
touching the bottom.
I don't like the idea of removing metal from the primer pocket. And "Cut just enough" is an unknown until your pressing a primer into the pocket. I dealt with some .223/5.56 that had just a bit left of the crimp. I don't care much for that. :s0002: It might even take less time to cut those crimps out? I guess being the plain old shooter looking for a good group, dinging steel, and just playin' around I don't really see how the swage is going to make less accuracy? But hey, if you see a reason you get better accuracy at those crazy distances? Go for it! I may be at that stage one day, who knows?!
 
I find that a Dillon swager followed up with the cutter on my RCBS case prep station keeps me happy.
After processing several hundred mixed fired rounds with the swage I notice very little difference when hand priming a couple hundred rounds. Just the slight difference that I've come to feel is normal when priming any mixed, fired, processed brass.
 
I use a RCBS prep station too. I run a primer pocket uniformer on the prep station. Every piece of brass is
run through it after trimming. To prevent a high primer that can cause a slam fire that can destroy a rifle.
1703781770862.png
I also use this carbide chamfer tool. Works a lot easier than the one it came with.
1703781918763.png
I find that a Dillon swager followed up with the cutter on my RCBS case prep station keeps me happy.
Same here, Dillon swager then the RCBS prep station with the primer pocket uniformer.
 
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