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When trimming cases there is normally a .010" range. Some books don't show the range. The Speer 14 book gives a "Trim To" number and a "Max Length" number. Max length is generally .010" over "Trim To".What is the +/- tolerances used when trimming rifle cases?? ( 3030 win ) is the current case working on..
What is shoulder bumping?? How is it done??
I'm using the Hornady lock-n-load cam-lock trimmer... any helpful hints on using this equipment??
If you're not roll crimping there shouldn't be any worries, unless your trimming so far below "trim to" length that itMy concern is, while trimming my cases I when under the 2.029 trim to size... I was wondering if I scrapped those cases..
Im currently just starting on a 30-30 handload , I trim mine to 2.030". Ive had the same question on tolerance, but while I not certain it will make a huge difference on the 30-30s accuracy I know consistency is the key with reloading any caliber. I try to hold +/-.002". My guess is that large variations in trim length would correlate to larger variations in neck tension, thus accuracy. Again, not certain how much this would affect accuracy in the 3030 lever guns but its still good to be consistent.What is the +/- tolerances used when trimming rifle cases?? ( 3030 win ) is the current case working on..
What is shoulder bumping?? How is it done??
I'm using the Hornady lock-n-load cam-lock trimmer... any helpful hints on using this equipment??
It's possible that the .30-30 in a lever gun will not need any shoulder bump. The lever action being similar to a bolt action, the case will expand and then spring back the slightest bit. Check a fired case in the chamber before sizing to see if the rim seats properly. I found in my Swede Mauser I didn't need any shoulder bump! Yay, less working of the brass! A gas gun, in my case an M1 Garand, I'm needing to bump about .002".Im currently just starting on a 30-30 handload , I trim mine to 2.030". Ive had the same question on tolerance, but while I not certain it will make a huge difference on the 30-30s accuracy I know consistency is the key with reloading any caliber. I try to hold +/-.002". My guess is that large variations in trim length would correlate to larger variations in neck tension, thus accuracy. Again, not certain how much this would affect accuracy in the 3030 lever guns but its still good to be consistent.
Shoulder bumping is using a FL die to size the location of the shoulder only, the idea is to minimize forming the case just enough to reliably chamber, thus increasing case life and accuracy. Take a fireformed case and measure its shoulder with a comparator gauge. FL size it normal and measure the difference, then back the die off in the press until your only moving the shoulder back about .003".
Do you mean neck size only? You want it to feed reliably, (more similar to a semi). I thought all neck sized rifle cases eventually will need the shoulder bumped back?It's possible that the .30-30 in a lever gun will not need any shoulder bump. The lever action being similar to a bolt action, the case will expand and then spring back the slightest bit.
In my case. What I found with my Swede Mauser was that a fired case would chamber with the very slightest resistance just before the bolt closed completely. If I recall correctly there was .003" difference between factory PPU-S&B unfired brass and my fired brass. So when sizing I have the die screwed out that little bit. That's sure going to help case life. Trimming is still needed of course.Do you mean neck size only? You want it to feed reliably, (more similar to a semi). I thought all neck sized rifle cases eventually will need the shoulder bumped back?
I would say it's possible? If the brass loses it's elasticity eventually? But considering the brass is snugged ever so softly up against the shoulder, how will it get to the point of needing a bump? Plus, the way the die is set when sizing, IF the shoulder needed bumping, it would get bumping.I thought all neck sized rifle cases eventually will need the shoulder bumped back?
I would say it's possible? If the brass loses it's elasticity eventually? But considering the brass is snugged ever so softly up against the shoulder, how will it get to the point of needing a bump? Plus, the way the die is set when sizing, IF the shoulder needed bumping, it would get bumping.