Bottle Brush Those Brass Necks....

[Larry243]

Thank You!
I will check into it...
Larry243

 

[orygun]

I tumble cases first and after decapping, I use an RCBS powered case prep tool. One of it's "stations" is the rotating nylon brush for the inside of the case neck that's too convenient to not use.
By stating "wire brush" I assume the OP means bronze or stainless. I might give that a try on some cases compared to the nylon to see if it works better without causing any damage because it's being used on a powered tool. I'm not going back to doing it by hand!

 

[orygun]

Imperial Dry Neck Lube Convenience Pak - MPN: 07200

It's got small ceramic media about the size of #9 shot in it, you just dip the neck in and done.

View attachment 412015

That looks like a great idea!

 

[Caveman Jim]

I have a nylon bristle brush mounted in one of the stations on my Lyman Case Prep machine and it gets used. I have no idea if it makes any difference at all but I like to have clean cases.

 

[Larry243]

My opinion is...
Nylon should work just as well. I use Nylon on my Barrels instead of brass and they always check clean with patches also. I think it is all about what cleans it to the base metal....
Larry 243

 

[Member 34319]

Not that anyone needs anymore reloading gadgets, but the op is correct whee starting the neck had a lot to do with consistency. So if your so inclined there is this.

Hornady Lock-N-Load Neck Turning Tool - MPN: 041224

 

[Larry243]

Thank You,
I am a big Hornady product lover and have been for many years. Although I do use some RCBS stuff, Hornady just does a great job on most products. I use there comparator for everything. Because I am also a big lover of my 6.5 Creedmoor, I do use and shoot Hornady products exclusively except for primers.

Regarding the Case necking issues, I am a firm believer that the retention of the bullet should be in direct contact with the Brass, an not with burnt powder residue or lube.. I have proven to my self through shooting through my Chronograph the bullet ballistics stay closer when they are all cleaned the same. Of course powder has to be very precise. I have no explanation why my groupings are closer, except that retention and bullet release some how does....
Thank's for the neck turning info!
Larry243

 

[Member 34319]

Thank You,
I am a big Hornady product lover and have been for many years. Although I do use some RCBS stuff, Hornady just does a great job on most products. I use there comparator for everything. Because I am also a big lover of my 6.5 Creedmoor, I do use and shoot Hornady products exclusively except for primers.

Regarding the Case necking issues, I am a firm believer that the retention of the bullet should be in direct contact with the Brass, an not with burnt powder residue or lube.. I have proven to my self through shooting through my Chronograph the bullet ballistics stay closer when they are all cleaned the same. Of course powder has to be very precise. I have no explanation why my groupings are closer, except that retention and bullet release some how does....
Thank's for the neck turning info!
Larry243

Neck expansion plays a part in where the bullet meets your lands. If your loading to your chamber's lands or not, consistent expansion of the neck plays a part in how the projectile starts its movement forward into the rifling. If your internal neck it gunked up with junk it won't expand uniformly on the side it has a bunch of junk. If the wall thickness is off, it won't expand uniformly. Key is to have wall thickness as close to uniform as possible for all your ammo to be as close to the same as possible for repeatable results.

 

[Larry243]

Yep but,
I set all my ammo up will bullet jump off of the land about .015. I do not like the bullets Ogive setting on the lands, because is is restricted because of small loading issues. I us my comparator and set to the Ogive and not the OAL dimension. All my die setters are setup for pressing for the Ogive dimensions. Bullet OAL vary for to much to rely on them to consistent. I'ts ok for factory loads, but not for precision hand loading...
I sure do agree with you on wall thickness. When they stretch to much.... They are done!
Inspection is the secret for sure!
larry243

 

[DizzyJ]

Imperial Dry Neck Lube Convenience Pak - MPN: 07200

It's got small ceramic media about the size of #9 shot in it, you just dip the neck in and done.

View attachment 412015

That's the stuff I use.

 

[Larry243]

Neck expansion plays a part in where the bullet meets your lands. If your loading to your chamber's lands or not, consistent expansion of the neck plays a part in how the projectile starts its movement forward into the rifling. If your internal neck it gunked up with junk it won't expand uniformly on the side it has a bunch of junk. If the wall thickness is off, it won't expand uniformly. Key is to have wall thickness as close to uniform as possible for all your ammo to be as close to the same as possible for repeatable results.

I agree with you Reno 100%. Wall thickness and uniformity is the real Key!
I say you are SPOT ON !

 

[Larry243]

Neck expansion plays a part in where the bullet meets your lands. If your loading to your chamber's lands or not, consistent expansion of the neck plays a part in how the projectile starts its movement forward into the rifling. If your internal neck it gunked up with junk it won't expand uniformly on the side it has a bunch of junk. If the wall thickness is off, it won't expand uniformly. Key is to have wall thickness as close to uniform as possible for all your ammo to be as close to the same as possible for repeatable results.

I agree with you Reno 100%. Wall thickness and uniformity is the real Key!
I say you are SPOT ON !
Larry243

 

[Jamie6.5]

Imperial Dry Neck Lube Convenience Pak - MPN: 07200

It's got small ceramic media about the size of #9 shot in it, you just dip the neck in and done.

View attachment 412015

I use #7-1/2 lead shot with powdered graphite in mine.
Just stab the case neck into it a couple of times, give it a tap on the edge of the container to knock off any excess, and it's lubed inside and out.

Works great and leaves no sticky or hard residue after shooting.

 

[Certaindeaf]

I use #7-1/2 lead shot with powdered graphite in mine.
Just stab the case neck into it a couple of times, give it a tap on the edge of the container to knock off any excess, and it's lubed inside and out.

Works great and leaves no sticky or hard residue after shooting.

Is that just for the fun of it or did you take the time to measure nermind

 

[Larry243]

I use #7-1/2 lead shot with powdered graphite in mine.
Just stab the case neck into it a couple of times, give it a tap on the edge of the container to knock off any excess, and it's lubed inside and out.

Works great and leaves no sticky or hard residue after shooting.

Well,
I will have to check it out...
Larry243

 

[Jamie6.5]

Well,
I will have to check it out...
Larry243

This guy does the same thing:
Inside Neck Lubrication

Sometimes it's possible to save a few bucks when reloading, but hopefully this won't become your main goal when making handloads. I filled this small bottle with about 5 or 6 ounces of #8 lead shot. Then I mix one tablespoon of powdered graphite into the shot. This inexpensive device helps lubricate the inside of your case necks with great results. Remember to clean the inside of your case necks first with a bore brush. After you do 20 cases, close the bottle and shake it a few times to redistribute the graphite. That supplies the right amount of graphite so you can just dip the neck inside, and give it a twist. This is a quick technique that works well, and it doesn't make a mess.

 

[Larry243]

You are the Man!
I love it, and what a great Idea. I like the fact that you can then just knock it against the edge to remove and residual amount. I am curious about one thing... What happens when you powder load? Why would the powder not get wiped off?
Hummmm!

 

[Vettewine]

Hey guys...Need to share

I have been a reloader for a few years, and enjoy bench shooting my .243 as well as hunting. I am very particular about loading, and spend extra time making sure my brass is clean, sized, and re-loaded with quality products so I can be assured good groupings and ballistics at the range weekly. I have been researching something that has proven to be well worth the extra effort for better groupings at the range.

Many guys, tumble, size and trim there brass when re-loading and do pretty good...But How many bottle brush the inside of the bullet necks before reloading. When a bullet is fired, there is some baked on residual coatings that will not tumble off when you tumble. The problem is that once you have resized you cartridge necks the coating is still embedded on the brass. This allows a small amount of cushioning that is not pure brass. The press fit process for the bullet is not exactly the same for each round, so the ballistics suffer a bit.

I had been shooting a specific bullet from Hornady for several years with pretty nice groupings... It is the
95 gr SST .243 bullet. I use the same powder and load data to get my 5 round grouping that is 1" to 1.25 with a standard sporting barrel at 100 yds.

The following process now allows me to shoot .875 to 1.0 groupings consistently.
1 Wire brush the case neck with the same brush as your barrel 2-3 strokes is fine.
2 Re-size and extract the primer in the case
3 Tumble until clean and shinny
4 Install new primer
5 Load Powder and Bullet using light anti sizing wax or fluids on external case only
6 The press fit will now be the same on all bullets.... no residual coatings inside exist on the case.

It sure works good for me!....
Larry243

I still use sized bits of walnut shells and they seem to make the necks come out clean as a whistle but I still run a SS neck brush through them as SOP so never had any trouble (so far).

 

[Larry243]

I still use sized bits of walnut shells and they seem to make the necks come out clean as a whistle but I still run a SS neck brush through them as SOP so never had any trouble (so far).

If you want them really shinny and clean....
Put in about 1 teaspoon of Nu-Finish car polish. This is not a wax, but a polish. It seals the surface and helps resist oxidation. They will come out sparkling bright and shinny. Tumble them as normal with your system. Just add the NU-Finish to the container. No wiping is required.
Good Luck,
Larry243