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Boots: PaleCheese is on the money with having two pairs of hunting boots for two different applications. One heavy set for the heavy hunting trips, and a lighter pair for the lighter excursions. I have never been disappointed with Danners, and with even moderate care, even the "high-dollar" Danners are actually far more economical than buying a boot of cheaper cost. I have a pair of Danners (they are most like the Rainforest, but 24 years ago, they called them something else). These boots are (as I said) 24 years old, and they have been to Alaska four times, and to Montana in October and December each year since 1987. They are still completely waterproof (with a heavy application of melted Huberd's grease at the beginning of each season, and a quickie application of cold Huberd's in camp maybe twice during the season). They are, as Gilletetip mentioned, of older manufacture, but a close buddy has a set of Rainforests that are about eight years old, and he is enjoying the same satisfaction as I have realized. From elk chasing in the Bob Marshall Wilderness to Dall Sheep pursuit in the Brooks Range, they are still going strong. Take care of them at least as well as your rifle (get the mud off them after the trip, grease as necessary), as they are at least as important as your rifle. Rocky Outbacks were my light boot for years, but they only go about 4 years with hard hunting. My light boot now is the Danner Jackal. Six years on this pair, and I will buy a new set in July. They get silicone spray instead of Huberd's as they are a glued-sole boot and not oil-tanned like a heavy Danner.
Insulation: go for the lightest Thinsulate offered in the boot you have chosen (or no insulation in the light boots). Invest in Polypropelene light socks (they are much like silk in the fabric), and a good pair of real wool over one pair of Poly will keep your feet warm even if you cross a creek and water comes into your boot from the top. The Poly will almost instantly dry even in a damp tent. The Poly also eliminates any possibility of a blister, no matter how hard and long you walk. In heavy snow or wet vegetation, wear your gaiters. If I hunted 75% of the time in heavy snow, I'd go for a pair of Schnees. Again, "expensive" at the outset, but economical in the long run. Elk guides in Montana swear by Schnees. They can be rebuilt more than once, and the guides are realizing 10 years or more out of them with heavy, heavy use and abuse.
Knives? DoubleCanine nailed it with Alan Warren for a locally made custom knife. Alan knows his steel, and creates beautiful pieces that will draw a comment from partners when you pull it to dress your kill. Buck has also researched steel correctly, and for a production knife, they can be easily sharpened, and hold an edge through a whole elk. Gerber uses a harder steel, harder to sharpen, but just might go for a couple elk in one season if you forget to sharpen. Schrade is also a good production knife with steel that you can work with. I carry a sharpener in my daypack, and I will quickly and easily dress the edge of my Warren or Schrade halfway through an elk just to get back that razor edge that makes things go so much easier. Cutting manila rope for horsepacking or whacking branches to make a good field-dressing site will take more out of an edge than animal hair. Meat and tissue should not affect any good knife steel to a noticeable degree.
You don't need a big knife for any big game hunting. I like a drop-point blade of about 4 inches for most work. In a pinch, I fully dressed and quartered a whole elk with the tiny blade of my Leatherman. Serrated edges are nice for rope cutting, but sharpening is problematic. Avoid them for animal jobs.
Insulation: go for the lightest Thinsulate offered in the boot you have chosen (or no insulation in the light boots). Invest in Polypropelene light socks (they are much like silk in the fabric), and a good pair of real wool over one pair of Poly will keep your feet warm even if you cross a creek and water comes into your boot from the top. The Poly will almost instantly dry even in a damp tent. The Poly also eliminates any possibility of a blister, no matter how hard and long you walk. In heavy snow or wet vegetation, wear your gaiters. If I hunted 75% of the time in heavy snow, I'd go for a pair of Schnees. Again, "expensive" at the outset, but economical in the long run. Elk guides in Montana swear by Schnees. They can be rebuilt more than once, and the guides are realizing 10 years or more out of them with heavy, heavy use and abuse.
Knives? DoubleCanine nailed it with Alan Warren for a locally made custom knife. Alan knows his steel, and creates beautiful pieces that will draw a comment from partners when you pull it to dress your kill. Buck has also researched steel correctly, and for a production knife, they can be easily sharpened, and hold an edge through a whole elk. Gerber uses a harder steel, harder to sharpen, but just might go for a couple elk in one season if you forget to sharpen. Schrade is also a good production knife with steel that you can work with. I carry a sharpener in my daypack, and I will quickly and easily dress the edge of my Warren or Schrade halfway through an elk just to get back that razor edge that makes things go so much easier. Cutting manila rope for horsepacking or whacking branches to make a good field-dressing site will take more out of an edge than animal hair. Meat and tissue should not affect any good knife steel to a noticeable degree.
You don't need a big knife for any big game hunting. I like a drop-point blade of about 4 inches for most work. In a pinch, I fully dressed and quartered a whole elk with the tiny blade of my Leatherman. Serrated edges are nice for rope cutting, but sharpening is problematic. Avoid them for animal jobs.
