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Hi there. Happy to have just found this great site.

I've just started reloading (9mm luger, .45acp, and .223) and have a question about the safety of reloaded ammo. My Glock manual specifically says not to use it in my G21, and I've read stories online about exploding Glocks.

How do I know what guns can shoot reloaded ammo safely? And what about Glocks make reloaded ammo unsafe?

I'm looking into getting a Browning Hi Power in 9mm and a Colt 1911 .45, would those be safe guns for reloaded ammo?

One more question: how many times can you reload a handgun case before the length gets out of tolerance and needs to be trimmed?

Thanks for your help
 
Please make sure if you're reloading for a GLOCK and using the stock OEM barrel you only use jacketed bullets!!! No Lead.

I would strongly recommend you surround yourself with some resources, videos, books and/or classes. Or try to link up with a buddy who can be your reloading mentor. There is much more to this than most people realize. It isn't difficult but there are some fundamentals you need to master and having access to someone might be of value.
 
I have reloaded and shot thousands of rounds through both of my Glock 17's, Glock 35 and Glock 24. I shoot IDPA and USPSA competitively. Never had a KB. I know a handful of guys that shoot lead out of their Glocks as well with good results. They are a pain to clean with the Poly barrels, but stay on top of leading and you will be okay.

You just want to make sure your cases are properly sized all the way down and elimiate the "glock bulge". Chamber check your ammo and you'll be fine.

Go to Glocktalk and do a search, plenty of good archived discussions on the subject there. But I agree, the best bet is to have someone mentor you and explain some of the things to watch out for. Reloading pistol ammo is not rocket science, but you have to be attentive, some attention to details, patient and somewhat mechanically inclined.
 
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Here are a few "Must Know's" to reloading...

1. Your reloading "enviornment" must be clear of any distractions, it's best if you are alone and NOT rushed.

2. Important "must have's":
a. A good reliable and readable Powder scale that will read GRAINS.
b. Calipers (digital is best, doesn't have to be very expensive)
c. reading lamp.
d. A "rock solid" work bench. You should be able to hop on your bench and do the "Irish Jig".
e. Bullet Puller

3. Before seating a bullet, make sure there is powder and the correct amount. When in doubt, measure it. Simple, but very important.

4. Reloading manuals. Some manufacturers have online data. You can contact most manufacturer and they will send out free catalogs with most common calibers.

5. Go slow, quality over quantity.

6. When in doubt, pull it out. If you have any doubt about your powder charge in a finished ammo, it only takes a few minutes to pull the bullet and double check the charge and reseat.

7. Know your specs, and how to obtain the desirable results: Crimp, OAL & Powder charge are among the most important to tailoring quality, safe ammo.

8. Good case prep is invaluable. Clean and dry brass of the same caliber. (those darn .380's and .45 Wincleans)

This list is not comlete, just some things off the top of my head. The hardest part of reloading, is making the deicision to do so, and commiting to buying the equipment and dedicating the time to do it rite.

There are not a lot of common caliber auto fired pistols you cannot reload for. I shoot with a number of guys in competition that shoot glocks and reload.
 
have a system. I prime them and put in holder primer up, charge them move to another holder mouth up, seat and crimp move to another holder primer up again. Works for me, if interupted i know were each round is in the process. Lead bullets are suppost to be a no-no with polygonal rifled barrels. measure case length with calipers to verify that it is in specs before starting the process.As far as a safe gun goes not wishing to start a war i'll just say that i personally prefer a steel gun over one made of a plastic composite.
 
We do reloading as a private tutorial only...it all depends on what the indivdiual wants to learn...reloading set up, equipment, bulk ammo, precision ammo, black powder, black powder metallilc cartridge etc.
 
Regarding GLOCK the OEM barrel is not rifled like a traditional rifling...it was designed for jacketed bullets sized to bore dia. Lead bullets are usually one to two thousands over bore dia and designed to be engraved by the lands/grooves of traditional round barrel equipped with rifling. Since a GLOCK barrel doesn't have traditional lands/grooves and is not round it leave lead deposits in the barrel. This is why you hear people at the range say "when you shoot lead in these barrels they are a "bugger" to clean." The barrel is trying to tell us something and that something is these deposits increase pressure. The more lead left behind the higher the pressures. I've seen case separation and obvious signs of pressure with the primers when the owner of the firearm was totally oblivious...when I ask them about this they say "oh, it has always does that!"

In a nutshell shooting lead can potentially increase chamber and bore pressures.

Anyway there is a whole cottage industry of aftermarket barrels with traditional rifling for those who do want to shoot lead.
 
A good safe way to start would to use a Lee Loader very easy to use and great directions on its use. You can also find great YouTube videos.

I started with a lee loader... I had a continual problem of primers exploding when I tried to seat them. The Lee loader is very advanced loading tool, and it's use in the hands of the amateur will likely result in personal injury, beyond a very few exceptional cases (old farts loading low pressure cowboy cartridges, who clearly know what they're doing) this tool is not even worth consideration. Besides, it seems the OP already has loading gear.

Personally, I tend to disagree with the cautions against using lead bullets in glocks, with the caveat that the barrel should be kept clean. This includes modifying the normal barrel cleaning routine to include a lead stripper and vigorous use of a brush.

Nearly every manufacturer out there, warns that using reloaded ammo is dangerous and voids the warranty. However this is not because the gun will not shoot reloads, but because reloading is inherently dangerous, and there are far too many amateurs in the field today with the current dearth of ammunition available on the market.

Diligence and caution are the name of the game when it comes to reloading and shooting reloaded ammo. Don't reload 500 rounds of ammo without testing it first, reload 5, when that works, refine the process and load another 5, once you are regularly producing 5 perfect rounds, now you can load 500 at a whack. Even I have gotten caught loading up 200 rounds of ammo that barely cycle, or have some other kind of deep flaw.
 
No lead in a Glock is a myth. But I don't care, I don't own one.

Straight wall pistol brass doesn't get longer, it gets shorter. Trimming is a rifle thing. I think. I've never done it.

You'll probably lose pistol brass long before it wears out.
 
Maybe doing something wrong when using the lee loader, I've loaded thousand rounds or more for a few different guns and never a problem with the primers exploding. You might of and a bad loader.
 

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