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Any quad owners willing to help me with an issue with my 660 Raptor?

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by glockguy, Oct 30, 2011.

  1. glockguy

    glockguy Albany Oregon Well-Known Member

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    So Iv got a buddy who's wanting to sell me hes 660.. had me take it out for a test ride to make sure everything was in good working order... this bike starts with just one push of the button (better then my 06 450er lol) anyways rode it for about an hour and came to a straight stretch in the road and i gave it full throttle shifted and then poof.... it dies.... it still turns over sounds its turning over normally... just wont fire up... i changed the plug... and still nothing... it did try to fire twice for a second... but then died...

    a few weeks ago he flipped it and hurt himself pretty bad busted his collar and gave himself a concussion... only visable damage it did was bend the handle bars. but a little adjusting with the screws an its fine now... after it sat for about 15 mins he started it up n rode it back to the truck..

    From looking on line iv found it could be the follow things:

    Coil
    Starter clutch
    or a bad CDI (whatever that is lol)
    Stator (again no clue what this is)

    also could be a gas flow issue? when i pulled the old plug it had fuel on it... which if i remember right that means its getting fuel.....

    I pulled the plug to see if its getting any spark and to replace it and i didnt see any spark... put the end of the plug against the block and no spark not even a little one...

    Also Im no mechanic so im just guessing on all this google is my friend lol
     
  2. deadeye

    deadeye Albany,OR. Moderator Staff Member

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    Did you do the spark test with the new plug? If it is turning over the starter clutch is good, the CDI is the electronic ignition box, and the stator is similar to a alternator but internal. Make sure you have spark or not with another new plug by using the ground to head method you did. I would also inspect for any loose electrical plugs as well as check the fuses. If you do have spark before trying it again try cranking over a bit without the plug to allow fuel present in the cylinder to be reduced also try some (not alot) starting fluid spray in the air inlet before cranking next time.
     
  3. Mark W.

    Mark W. Silverton, OR Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    If the problem is intermitent and started right after a full throttle burst. My guess is a bad CDI it's possible you some how over loaded it and it over heated and shut down. After the 15min cool down while you messed with it. Allowing it to start back up.

    I would try to duplicate the same conditions again. If the shut down happens again I would pull the plug touch the threads to the head and try turning it over. If you see spark its most likely not the CDI if you don't see the spark it is MOST likely the CDI. And a replacement of that part would be the way to fix it.
     
  4. dirtbag

    dirtbag clackamas or Member

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    this is a clasic need for a valve adjust . they tighten up when they get hot and gain clearance when they cool aka metal growth due to heat . 660 raptor is a easy valve adjust - no shims needed . pm me if you need more help
     
  5. glockguy

    glockguy Albany Oregon Well-Known Member

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    It turns over just fine sounds like it normally would if you were gonna start it up...

    I did do the spark test with the new plug as well as the old...

    Mark- the bike does NOT start at all... it shut down yesterday and will NOT turn back on... it did get a spark twice and then died... didnt even start all the way up...

    Would the valves really cause there not to be any spark?
     
  6. orygun

    orygun West Linn Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    If the valves are too tight that would not affect the ability of the bike to spark. (not that you should ignore the valves, especially if the bike's not been maintained properly)

    No spark would either be a defective CDI box or even just a loose or bad connection. If you have access to a shop manual for the Raptor it should give you the info needed to test the CDI. Other than that, pull the plastic and check all of the connections, even to the point of un-hooking, looking at the pins (contacts), and re-hooking all of the connections for the ignition system.
     
  7. dirtbag

    dirtbag clackamas or Member

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    if it will not turn over you have blown the fuse back at your starter relay due to over cranking and pulling to many amps thru the start circut . if battery is to low you mite not see spark due to high amp draw to the starter under cranking . the starter pulls more power out of your electrical system than any other thing and when battery is weak or wont take a good charge spark is hard to find . tight valves can be compared to a potato in the tail pipe gag . if the motor cant breath it wont want to run . when valves get tight they will hang open causing a loss of compression , mabey not a total loss but enough to make for a hard start . the 660 has a built in compression release in the cam there for it is very hard to get a true compression reading due to the way it functions . but it is very easy to unscrew the caps on top of the head and check the lash to find out .
     
  8. 74sporty

    74sporty metro portland Active Member

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    ok, i'll give my two bits too.

    im leaning more to an electrical problem then a mechanical problem. before you take off your heads, check your circuits.

    your obviously not getting volts to the plug, so the coil is not sending ... but is the coil getting power?

    make sure you have a good charge in your battery and if you got a volt meter, you can check the circuit from the coil to the cdi.

    if that reads 13v then your getting volts to the coil, but its not sending... replace it. but if it doesnt read 13v then its not the coils fault because nothing is sending the coil power.

    circuit test the cdi to the fuse box. if this reads 13v then that would mean the fuse (the one you already checked and know is good) is sending power to the cdi, but the cdi isn't sending to the coil. which means the cdi is bad. easy peezy

    you can even diagnose it from the power side first, starting at the fuse box.
     
  9. glockguy

    glockguy Albany Oregon Well-Known Member

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    i guess ima have to go out an get a volt meter...
     
  10. chowser2

    chowser2 seaside Member

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    got to raptor forum or modded raptor
     
  11. Mark W.

    Mark W. Silverton, OR Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    No Spark it is either the coil, the power to the coil, spark plug wire, or most likely the CDI, IMHO And if you have no spark then that is the reason it won't start nit that its not possible for another problem to appear at exactly the same time on a running engine. JUST Highly improbable
     
  12. bruzer

    bruzer Grants Pass, OR Well-Known Member

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    My first thought is the wires to the kill switch got damaged during the flip over. If the handle bars were bent it could have possibly messed up the wires and they are now grounding out the coil. I realize that it was running after the flip but sometimes wires have a way of waiting or intermittently causing trouble. Good luck,
    Mike
     
  13. glockguy

    glockguy Albany Oregon Well-Known Member

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    If the kill switch is in the off position it will not turn over even with they key on
     
  14. glockguy

    glockguy Albany Oregon Well-Known Member

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  15. 22many

    22many PNW Well-Known Member

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    If it is the stator then don't buy a factory yamaha stator. I spent years racing in the atv world and have done my share of wrenching on them. Factory yamaha electronics suck. Often times we would get stators direct from yamaha only to be left with a $400+ bill and a stator that is not putting out the power that it should.

    Before I switched to a strictly race ignition I've had good luck with Ricky stator stators. A lot cheaper than factory yamaha parts also.
     
  16. orygun

    orygun West Linn Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    Looked into Ricky Stator Stators and heard nothing but good reports. You can probably fix your Raptor for a lot less than with a new Yamaha part.
     
  17. glockguy

    glockguy Albany Oregon Well-Known Member

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  18. 22many

    22many PNW Well-Known Member

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    Honestly, I would stick to a new stator of good quality. In my experience, stators will still work but that doesn't mean that they are any good. My very first stator problem was very tricky to diagnose. The bike would run great until you went uphill and then it would cut out. After weeks of going through the fuel system, I turned to the electrical system. New coil, same problem, new wiring harness, same problem, bought a factory new stator, and it fixed it. 2 months later, I had pulled the cylinders off the bike to do some more porting. Took it for the first ride and top end was cutting out. Took the bike to my buddies atv shop and put it on his dyno. The bike would only make a certain amount of hp and then cut out. My friend knew what I had gone through with the whole stator problem so he pulled his Ricky stator off his bike and put it on mine. Instant 20hp gain and the bike sounded great!

    Another friend bought a 03 banshee when it was new back in 03. Ran great stock. When he went to add some power (pipes, porting, carbs) same thing happened. He figured he would do it cheap and buy a used stator off of eBay. Guess what? Same problem. He eventually went with a aftermarket stator ( can remember who's) and the bike ran great.

    I've been around enough yamaha atvs to see that their electrical systems are hit or miss. One of my bike I have now has the factory stator in it ( and it's a 96) and it's still going strong. But if it ever goes out I'll be replacing it with a Ricky stator.


    Trust me, a little bit more money, but do it right the first time.

    The link you posted to Ricky stators site looks like all you need. Be sure to tell them the year of your bike to get the right connectors. Another thing, if you get the wrong connections don't cut the end off the stator and splice it! Send it back and get the right one! I can go onto a whole other story about people splicing wiring harness and having electrical problems.
     
  19. dieselben47

    dieselben47 yamhill/mcminnville Member

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    MAKE SURE THE WOODRUFF KEY IS NOT SHEARED ON THE CRANK CAUSING THE FLYWHEEL TO SLIP. IVE SEEN THIS PROBLEM ON RAPTORS A COUPLE TIMES.