80% lower finished

[70cyclone]

If I didn't have a CNC mill in my shop that's the jig I would use
I also drill the safety and trigger pin holes first since I find it usually eliminates the need for deburring the inside where its really hard to reach with anything.

 

[Caveman Jim]

While we're on the topic of 80% lowers, I bought an Anderson last year here and while I really like the flared mag well I just truthfully don't like the open trigger guard. I bought two Noreen 80%ers for the enclosed trigger guard but the mag well is not flared as well as the Anderson.... SMH
I do digress that all three were under $50 each so that tells the tale...

 

[Diamondback]

We use these

We used these cool little doodads called cogsdills at Boeing (or bloeing as I call 'em) it's basically a round bit/shank that holds a carbide shaper/scraper and will QUICKLY deburr inside and blind holes. Google it. I'm sure there's pictures. I think cogsdills is the maker.

These guys?
Products : Cogsdill Tool Products

And oh by the way, it hasn't been "Boeing" ever since the McDonnell Crime Family bought our company with its own money in the merger between Harry "I Can Replace Everyone Here In 24 Hours" Stonecipher's pecker and Phil Condit's arsepipe.

Follow-up question to you guys who mentioned drilling the pin-holes first so milling the FCG pocket deburs 'em automatically: Think that'd work for deburring the trigger hole too?

 

[70cyclone]

I'm sure it would help, I didn't think about the trigger slot since I don't drill it at all.

 

[x2ndxall]

If I didn't have a CNC mill in my shop that's the jig I would use
I also drill the safety and trigger pin holes first since I find it usually eliminates the need for deburring the inside where its really hard to reach with anything.

I have this and have used it. It does a very nice job. But, as I only build for fun, I prefer to use this.


Pre-drilling makes good sense. But, as I find drilling to be the least fun part, I'd rather just clean it up after. It's faster also. The extra drilling must suck.

I should add that Andy (5D) has mad customer service skills.

 

[Caveman Jim]

I have this and have used it. It does a very nice job. View attachment 352946 But, as I only build for fun, I prefer to use this.
View attachment 352948

Pre-drilling makes good sense. But, as I find drilling to be least fun part, I'd rather just clean it up after. It's faster also. The extra drilling must suck.

I should add that Andy (5D) has mad customer service skills.

Yes he does!!!

 

[Dr Prepper]

These guys?
Products : Cogsdill Tool Products

And oh by the way, it hasn't been "Boeing" ever since the McDonnell Crime Family bought our company with its own money in the merger between Harry "I Can Replace Everyone Here In 24 Hours" Stonecipher's pecker and Phil Condit's arsepipe.

Follow-up question to you guys who mentioned drilling the pin-holes first so milling the FCG pocket deburs 'em automatically: Think that'd work for deburring the trigger hole too?

Yes Sir! Thems the ones. Sounds like the place only now it's Mcgurneys "I'll still be here, and they'll still be grovelling" asshat that openly rebuked the people that made that place run. It was almost funny coming back from strike and seeing the mountains mistakes the managers made screwing up the "7maybe7" we had to rework. That program was SOOO F'd. So much so they won't even make any $ on it till the 1000th+ plane (if they are lucky) but somehow they burry the mountains of debt and draw a loan from the Ex-Im bank. And then report profits to the shareholders. Lol.
There NEEDS to be more books on this topic...

 

[Diamondback]

OT: Ya wanna know how bad it is? I grew up in a Heritage Boeing household, and as a kid the only place I would have rather worked was the Skunk Works--not Lockheed, specifically Kelly Johnson's shop. Now... if my choices were between taking a position there or being shot in the head, bring on that bullet.

 

[Dr Prepper]

While we're on the topic of 80% lowers, I bought an Anderson last year here and while I really like the flared mag well I just truthfully don't like the open trigger guard. I bought two Noreen 80%ers for the enclosed trigger guard but the mag well is not flared as well as the Anderson.... SMH
I do digress that all three were under $50 each so that tells the tale...

Do what I did and buy Anderson's closed trigger 80's... Plus they are forged! Best of all worlds. I haven't seen them in stock though since last father's day (2016 of course) and they were on sale + free shipping. Email/or leave a "message" in thier "reviews" for that product. I asked for more not too long ago and was told "we are focusing on our open trigger products" IMO if I made closed trigger products I wouldn't make open ones AT ALL! These things are unobtainium now. Glad I stocked up..

 

[5D Tactical]

@5D Tactical I was the guy who contacted you about a review here, but looks like I was beaten to the punch!

Welcome aboard! Your profile says "Silver Vendor," so if Joe hasn't got you fully set-up yet he's got you well into the process.

Thanks!

Welcome! Great to have you here. I've got your jig on my short list of items to buy. I'm impressed with the quality of your product.

Thank you, let me know if you have any questions.

That's great Andy, we always welcome new vendors and I am stoked to have been a part of getting yous guys here.

I started #2 today!!!!! I'm gonna have to build a lot of guns, this is too fun!!!

View attachment 352700

That's a happy customer right there .

I agree on all points, but mostly the video. Watched and studied it several times and figured that another cave man besides you could do it. I'll have mine it about a week. Bought the router on Amazon.

Thanks for your patience and let us know if you need anything.

 

[70cyclone]

Pre-drilling makes good sense. But, as I find drilling to be the least fun part, I'd rather just clean it up after. It's faster also. The extra drilling must suck.

there's no extra drilling...unless I am missing something.
I use hellfire armory's jig since it makes a great fixture for the CNC. I made some clearance alterations to it so it fits forged lowers as well.

 

[The Heretic]

What lowers does this jig NOT work with??

 

[5D Tactical]

What lowers does this jig NOT work with??

Our jigs, both the AR-15 and AR-308 are guaranteed to fit all metal 80% lowers. Our AR-15 jig also fits all AR-9 80% Lowers, and the AR-308 jig will work with the Genesis CNC Armalite pattern AR-10 80% (the only Armalie pattern 80% that we know of). Most polymers will fit, but some will not.

 

[The Heretic]

Okay thanks. Not really interested in polymer lowers right now.

I had the New Frontier lower recommended to me, but on reading about it found that some jigs won't work with it.

I have not decided which 80% lower I want to start with but your jig sure has some features I like, especially the fact that the tool bit does not touch the jig (from what I understand), and that I can get the AR-10 kit to make it work with AR-10 lowers too.

 

[Diamondback]

The Tennessee Arms Liberator is one reported to not fit, best guess is that some polymer buffer towers are reinforced too thick to it in the available space. @5D Tactical Anything in your experience either way on this?

 

[5D Tactical]

Okay thanks. Not really interested in polymer lowers right now.

I had the New Frontier lower recommended to me, but on reading about it found that some jigs won't work with it.

I have not decided which 80% lower I want to start with but your jig sure has some features I like, especially the fact that the tool bit does not touch the jig (from what I understand), and that I can get the AR-10 kit to make it work with AR-10 lowers too.

Yes, other jigs will not fit some popular 80% lowers, one commonly being the New Frontier. Our AR-15 jig will fit their AR-15 and their Glock style AR-9 lower.

The Tennessee Arms Liberator is one reported to not fit, best guess is that some polymer buffer towers are reinforced too thick to it in the available space. @5D Tactical Anything in your experience either way on this?

I believe you are correct, that is one of them. The extra meat around the buffer extension is typically the reason.

 

[x2ndxall]

there's no extra drilling...unless I am missing something.

Well, it's the reason there's no need for deburring the inside, drilling all the way through before milling, instead of just the walls after. I know it doesn't seem like much, but cleaning it up is literally a few seconds' work.
But I guess you wouldn't have to drill all the way through. I think I'll try that next time (if I get a next time).

 

[Diamondback]

I believe you are correct, that is one of them. The extra meat around the buffer extension is typically the reason.

Followup: Is it possible to arrange to have the buffer-tower slot cut a little bigger to clear poly towers at time of order, or is it always a matter of having to do multi-step shipping? Or, if lower-in-hand is required--and I'd understand if it is--could you hold the order there and have me either ship the lower from here or have it drop-shipped from the manufacturer straight to your site as "me C/O you"? (I'm trying to save us *both* a few bucks on shipping. )

 

[70cyclone]

I am curious about the polymer lowers. Have any of you guys built one and really given it a workout? How do they hold up?
I have considering building one, just to say I did, but have been concerned about them holding up.

 

[Diamondback]

@70cyclone I haven't started any of mine, but all-polys like EP Armory I'm not coniddent in for much more than lower-stress use like dedicated hosts for .22LR uppers. (I bought the ones I have because at $20 a pop, I'd rather screw up cheap ones learning to work machinery that actually mangle anything good.) Metal-reinforced-poly like Tennessee Arms I might consider for pistols and lightweight builds, but I'd still wanna watch the total weight and *really* try to keep the gas as close to "just enough to reliably cycle with intended load" as possible.