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69 gn Matchking 223 loads
- Thread Starter Key-Hay
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Sierra's Accuracy Load for that bullet is 25.3 grains of Varget- so far, this has worked well for me. If your shooting these out of an AR or other semi-auto I'd strongly suggest using a small-base die....but just give it a few hours and some other know-it-all will post something completely opposite!
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- Thread Starter
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I've decided to go with SB dies. The purpose for these are to use in my Bushmaster DCM for Highpower matches. I bought a 500 ct box of the Moly coated and want to startloading them.
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24.4 grains of H4895 and a CCI small rifle primer did wonders for me. It's a stick powder so it's wise to throw a charge just short and trickle up to the desired amount. As always, work your way up to any load to avoid excessive pressure.
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My load uses Win. 748. Shoots little groups out of my tan spr. JPG
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+1 on varget. I love that powder it has always been a performer for me. Also +1 on small base dies, this is a must for reloading cartridges for any semi-auto.
I usually back of a bit from the book. Unless you are trying for maximum range, the higher velocity tends to aversely affect accuracy if all other conditions are equal. However, with the length of these bullets you need a fairly quick twist with a decent velocity to get them to stabilize properly.
I usually back of a bit from the book. Unless you are trying for maximum range, the higher velocity tends to aversely affect accuracy if all other conditions are equal. However, with the length of these bullets you need a fairly quick twist with a decent velocity to get them to stabilize properly.
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Again, small base dies are not a must for semi-auto. You'll just wear out your brass quicker by over-working it. I have been loading for my semi-autos for a long time and do not own one small base die, an impossible feat according to your assertion.
Varget is a great powder for 69 gr. SMK.
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I also use varget with all my .223 stuff. Performes very well.
I was told that moly is very hygroscopic, so if you don't use a good solvent and clean your barrel very well and pretty often, the residue will draw moisture into your barrel and form rust eventually.
I was told that moly is very hygroscopic, so if you don't use a good solvent and clean your barrel very well and pretty often, the residue will draw moisture into your barrel and form rust eventually.
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- #10
Even if the barrel is chrome lined? Shooting out of a Bushmaster DCM.
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I also like varget with the 69g matchkings. I shoot them out of my savage 26" bull barrel with a 1:9 twist. I am still messing around with it but, so far it looks like my gun likes about 25.1 to 25.3 grains.
This load with this gun are more accurate that I am, so it is hard for me to tweak it much more
This load with this gun are more accurate that I am, so it is hard for me to tweak it much more
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chrome-moly vanadium (The DCM barrel) is very tough and resists wear, but If I remember right, chrome-moly vanadium is just a different alloy of steel. I believe it is only slighty more noble than say 302 or 304 stainless steel. It is still a steel alloy and can rust.
Cleaning an AR tyre rifle is super super easy, just spend the 10 minutes after a days shooting and you wont have to worry about it rusting.
Maybe someone with alot of knowledge in metals will see this and chime in one way or the other. I could be wrong, it's happened before!
Cleaning an AR tyre rifle is super super easy, just spend the 10 minutes after a days shooting and you wont have to worry about it rusting.
Maybe someone with alot of knowledge in metals will see this and chime in one way or the other. I could be wrong, it's happened before!
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It gets cleaned after every shooting session.
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It is good to pay the insurance early and use small based dies. A semi beats the brass up, and you will be replacing brass after 6-8 times fired or earlier depending on how hot your loading it. SB dies help with getting that round into the chamber. I use a case gauge anyway, and have had no failure to chamber issues. Piece of mind anyway. JPG
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The only way a semi beats up brass any more than a bolt is if you are putting under sized cartridges in the chamber. Then the brass has to expand more to fit the chamber and you strain it more yet by squeezing it further than necessay in a small base die. Do you think a looser chamber fit is better or worse for consistancy and accuracy? I can see using them if you are mass producing ammo for sale and don't want to take a chance on an unhappy customer, i.e. loading for the lowest common denominator. One of the reasons I reload is to make more accurate rounds for my personal firearms. That's why I neck size for my bolts.
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Alfack,
I have been shooting Highpower for over 25 years. Please feel free to post some pictures of your groups out of ANY semi auto at 300, or even the 600 yard line. Lets not even talk the long, (1000yards). I bet that if you took 10 Highpower shooters that ALL use small base dies, and 10 of your non small base die buddies, and had a shoot off you'd be shocked at how accurate they shoot and have no failure to chamber issues, unlike your 10 buddies.
Not trying to cause a pissing match, but you should think about the saftey of you throwing out your wisdom on the internet. What if this guy was asking about an M1A and he used your advice on using a non small base die, and had a round go off with the bolt slightly out of battery? Which has happened more times than it should, by the way. Say he blew his gun up, at the minimum. I bet you wouldn't even say your sorry, would you.
I have been shooting Highpower for over 25 years. Please feel free to post some pictures of your groups out of ANY semi auto at 300, or even the 600 yard line. Lets not even talk the long, (1000yards). I bet that if you took 10 Highpower shooters that ALL use small base dies, and 10 of your non small base die buddies, and had a shoot off you'd be shocked at how accurate they shoot and have no failure to chamber issues, unlike your 10 buddies.
Not trying to cause a pissing match, but you should think about the saftey of you throwing out your wisdom on the internet. What if this guy was asking about an M1A and he used your advice on using a non small base die, and had a round go off with the bolt slightly out of battery? Which has happened more times than it should, by the way. Say he blew his gun up, at the minimum. I bet you wouldn't even say your sorry, would you.
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OK so Here's the back story. Have shot a few 800 Agg matched with Bimart Remington ammo and did OK. Would like to do better at the longer distances and was told the 69s do much better. So I got a box of 500 69 Moly coated (Got a good deal) So I trimmed the rem cases from last outing and tried chunking them thru my Dillon 550B just like the directions say (Found out from another thread that this is not ideal) SO I get to the range and the third round jams into the chamber so hard I ripped the belt on the case trying (unsuccessfully) to get it out. Luckily there was a well known club member with Guru status that was able to get it out. So I put my tail between my legs and went back to .38/.357/.45 loading and buying Bimart .223. Really want to figure out this rifle reloading cause I don't want to spend $20 a box for loaded 69 gn rounds. Besides theres the whole challenge thing.
Just looking for help.....Wasn't tryin to start any arguments.
I do have my eye on my neighbors SA NM M1A. It was his Dads and it has been to Camp Perry numerous times in the early 1960s with results! He says when he sells it I have 1st dibs.
Just looking for help.....Wasn't tryin to start any arguments.
I do have my eye on my neighbors SA NM M1A. It was his Dads and it has been to Camp Perry numerous times in the early 1960s with results! He says when he sells it I have 1st dibs.
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Jesus. I don't even know why I bother. Now you want to get all hypothetical on me. The M1 is the only gun I would say you need small base dies for. But if you read the topic header you might see that we aren't talking about the M1. As far as internet wisdom goes, I hate to see blanket statements that are false like "small base dies are a must for semis." FYI, I don't have reliability or feeding issues in any of my semis.
And, since you're being a dickhead about the whole thing by insinuating that I'm somehow a bad person:
let me throw this in:
A little irrelevant, but wow! Let me be the first to congratulate you. You're a legend in your own mind. You must be the only one who knows anything about reloading.
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Mikeli do you have a case guage? You may not have needed to trim them down.
Is your rifle chambered in 5.56 or .223? I know they're supposedly the same but the 5.56 rifles have looser tolerances and you've gotta have some odd problem to get a jam in them
what headstamp are your cases? How many loads in them?
I use Lee's and RCBS regular dies for my .223/5.56 reloading and never had a jam in the AR platforms.
I'm far from an expert with loading but it's pretty easy and fun to do and I've burned through thousands of .223 without a problem like that nasty jam.
Is your rifle chambered in 5.56 or .223? I know they're supposedly the same but the 5.56 rifles have looser tolerances and you've gotta have some odd problem to get a jam in them
what headstamp are your cases? How many loads in them?
I use Lee's and RCBS regular dies for my .223/5.56 reloading and never had a jam in the AR platforms.
I'm far from an expert with loading but it's pretty easy and fun to do and I've burned through thousands of .223 without a problem like that nasty jam.
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Ok, here is my assertion: IF YOU ARE USING PICK UP BRASS!!!!! SMALL BASE SIZE!!!!! WHEN IN DOUBT SMALL BASE SIZE!!!!
If you are shooting the same brass in the same gun over and over, for semi you can usually get away with a FL size die. If you are using a bolt gun, and keep using the brass over and over, use a neck sizing die.
I don't make a living pissing in your cheerios, I make a living making ammo. When I get 250K pieces of .223 brass in, that I am going to reload and send to some customer, the second I don't small base size will be the day his gun is dirty and will have all kinds of problems with my ammo. I also don't make a living giving excuses to customers, nor do I make a living replacing a lot of ammo that doesn't fit in the customer's gun.
A small base die does work the brass more, and will tend to work harden it faster. If you really want maximum life out of the brass, anneal it every two times you fire it. Frankly, .223 brass is so plentiful unless I really need the brass, I won't even bother picking up less than 100 rounds, because I usually have drums and drums of .223 brass.
If you are shooting the same brass in the same gun over and over, for semi you can usually get away with a FL size die. If you are using a bolt gun, and keep using the brass over and over, use a neck sizing die.
I don't make a living pissing in your cheerios, I make a living making ammo. When I get 250K pieces of .223 brass in, that I am going to reload and send to some customer, the second I don't small base size will be the day his gun is dirty and will have all kinds of problems with my ammo. I also don't make a living giving excuses to customers, nor do I make a living replacing a lot of ammo that doesn't fit in the customer's gun.
A small base die does work the brass more, and will tend to work harden it faster. If you really want maximum life out of the brass, anneal it every two times you fire it. Frankly, .223 brass is so plentiful unless I really need the brass, I won't even bother picking up less than 100 rounds, because I usually have drums and drums of .223 brass.
