223 NATO Brass -how do u get rid of that &$€¥ primer crimp

[Greenbug]

These are not "swaging tools", they're reamers. They cut. A Swaging tool is a punch that is forced into the primer pocket to reform it, including the crimped area.

My bad, I meant to type primer pocket reamer, not swager. Just to clarify further I dont mean primer pocket uniforming tool either, you definately need the reamer tool for your application RemADL700.

 

[FWest]

CH4D :: Primer Pocket Swager & Priming Tool

I picked up one of these used and it seems to work well if setup properly. It takes a case or two to get it right and will do a pile in a few minutes.

 

[Kevatc]

CH4D :: Primer Pocket Swager & Priming Tool

I picked up one of these used and it seems to work well if setup properly. It takes a case or two to get it right and will do a pile in a few minutes.

How does this work? I'm thinking in terms of a Hornady LnL where all the important stuff happens when the ram upstrokes.

 

[FWest]

I use it in a single stage.

 

[Nwcid]

How does this work? I'm thinking in terms of a Hornady LnL where all the important stuff happens when the ram upstrokes.

It will not work. There is no where to mount the "pin" in this. You need to have a single shell holder mount on the ram for it to work.

 

[deadshot2]

CH4D :: Primer Pocket Swager & Priming Tool

I picked up one of these used and it seems to work well if setup properly. It takes a case or two to get it right and will do a pile in a few minutes.

I agree that this is a good tool. Only thing to watch for is cases with weaker extractor "rims". Since there is no backup anvil inside the case the what is effectively the rim on the case can be distorted. On the Dillon and RCBS tools the swaging takes place against an anvil so their is no pressure put on the other parts of the case. This might be an issue if more pressure is needed to form the desired radius on the mouth of the primer pocket.

 

[BBDartCA]

simple technique after the primers are removed Fast way to remove crimped primer pockets - YouTube

 

[bmgm37]

IMO that is a horrible way to do it...way to easy to remove to much material. If you remove to much material you lose support for the primer. Doesn't look to safe either. I have used the primer pocket readers that several manufacturers sell in a low rpm cordless drill, but these type bottom out in the primer pocket so you can't remove to much material..

 

[deadshot2]

What I can't understand is that swaging is so quick and easy, and it does the job the proper way without removing any material, why is everyone looking for another way? It isn't because they want something faster and easier, it's just that they're looking for a cheaper way. When you factor in all the damaged brass or even the possible collateral damage to the firearm then what's really cheaper?

If you don't need to process much brass, get the $20-$30 tool. If you have "buckets" get a Dillon Super Swage. That way you won't end up with a 1/4" hole in your hand.

 

[XSubSailor]

I agree that this is a good tool. Only thing to watch for is cases with weaker extractor "rims". Since there is no backup anvil inside the case the what is effectively the rim on the case can be distorted. On the Dillon and RCBS tools the swaging takes place against an anvil so their is no pressure put on the other parts of the case. This might be an issue if more pressure is needed to form the desired radius on the mouth of the primer pocket.

The RCBS swager works on the same principle as the Dillon super-swage (punch and anvil rod) and is only slightly slower than the Dillon once it's dialed in...I used mine to swage 400 pieces of .308 Win this weekend and it took me about an hour. You do need a single stage press to use it; however, most reloaders that deal with military rifle brass already have a single stage press.

 

[deadshot2]

The RCBS swager works on the same principle as the Dillon super-swage (punch and anvil rod) and is only slightly slower than the Dillon once it's dialed in...I used mine to swage 400 pieces of .308 Win this weekend and it took me about an hour. You do need a single stage press to use it; however, most reloaders that deal with military rifle brass already have a single stage press.

Agree that it's "almost" as good as the Dillon. I've noticed two differences that could be major for some users ( used one before I bought my Dillon). First, it's hard to get enough radius on some primer pocket "mouths" as it's hard to get enough "leverage" with the single stage press. Not an issue with some brass which is softer than others but on the tough stuff, it leaves another chamfer process to be done. Second is that I hate the way you have to remove the ram from the case. If it sticks you have to hit/slap the press handle to break the case loose from the ram. Can give one a sore hand after a while. The dillon uses a "Cam" that provides all the force needed to reform the primer pocket, radius and all, on the toughest brass, and remove the ram from the case, all with very little effort due to the mechanical advantage it generates. The RCBS tool isn't so much a problem of "Slower", it's just "harder" to use when using tough brass.

 

[WR Cartridge Company]

Fully processed brass that has been auto reamed is the finest brass available to reload with, if it will reliably feed at 3600 rounds an hour on my machine your dillon will love it. Whenever you can afford to get the reamed brass get it, there are several reasons for it. If you are single stage loading or hand priming just swaging will do fine...you can disagree with me but every commercial manufacturer out there buys the stuff..or makes it themselves....that includes us.

 

[deadshot2]

Fully processed brass that has been auto reamed is the finest brass available to reload with, if it will reliably feed at 3600 rounds an hour on my machine your dillon will love it.

I hope your machine does a better job than the one Black Hills Ammo uses. When they're done with Lake City brass it's more "counter-bored" than reamed. Yes, it slips through a progressive press like grease through a goose but with almost half the primer unsupported on the sides? No thanks.

I still prefer swaging for just that reason, no metal removed, and the cases still get primed with ease. I won't buy any case that's been "reamed".

 

[WR Cartridge Company]

I appreciate your lack of trust in the reamed brass, and I won't try to convince you on the merits, as i said both work well, one a bit better if you are going for quantity. we process with both a Camdex and a scharch processor, one swages, one auto reams...both run at about 3400-4000 rounds processed per hour depending on the quality of the brass going in the hopper.

 

[AMProducts]

Swaging is ok for the little bullets... .223, but anything bigger and you really should be reaming, I will admit, I've seen more than a few machines where the reamer was set incorrectly, or the mandrel RPM was set at an odd harmonic and it chattered the inlet. I ordered some custom reamers a while ago and after setting up one of the machines at work have not had any further problems with reaming.

One of the big issues you will tend to have with swaging is you end up moving metal towards the far end of the pocket, while the opening on the case looks ok, seating will still be difficult and crushed primers will be common especially if using something soft like federal or some lots of Winchester. If you are loading bigger cases, reaming becomes a must, especially when bulk loading .308, or .50BMG chances are unless you have a hydraulic press, you won't be able to generate enough force to really swage the pocket on a .50.

I also remember a while ago I got a lot of brass from bertram where his bumping punch had worn, and was too small, as a consequence all of his primer pockets were undersized causing a huge headache until we took the time to ream them all out.

 

[WR Cartridge Company]

The auto reamer is a feature of a Scharch range master case processor.....The best money can buy in my opinion...it only cuts a bevel where the crimp resided. Camdex does a swage that will reform the pocket a bit as it penetrates about 1/3 of the depth.

 

[AMProducts]

On any of the automatic machines, reaming is the best option, as swaging with any amount of force will tend to deform the case head, stall the machine, over swage, under-swage or any combination of the above. This is why loading .223 on the dillon 1050 when running the pocket swage bar is so much fun *sarcasm*. Some time ago when I worked for another manufacturer we sent a bunch of .223 brass out for processing, and it came back with all the pockets grossly over reamed, I don't blame the machine, I blame the operator for neither checking, nor making adjustments. Is top brass even still making the range master? I remember trying to order a roll sizer from him about 2 years ago and he acted like it would be a custom order.

 

[WR Cartridge Company]

He has sold out, they still make equipment but you are correct that it appears made to order now. Additionally why swaging is not as preferred is that the interrior of the case is different between .223 and 5.56 so a setting for one to be correctly swaged is not correct for the other as when the back up support enters the case and provides counter force to the swage it will have inconsistent pressure that will result in variances between cases that you won't pick up in until loading time...and that is too late and too costly...BTW where are you working these days? PM me if you like.

 

[HappyRoman]

several ideas, all are costly, a dillion 1050 will auto swag, and then you could set a trim station up also..

you could find a local processor as I have done in the pass..

or just by the dillon swagger..

It's work or money or both//

 

[AMProducts]

The Dillon bench swager is kinda've a steaming pile... RCBS makes a primer pocket swaging tool that uses a die that has a spacing mandrel in it, and a shell holder that has either a large/small pocket swage tool on it, with an extractor collar. I usually pick them up for about $10 at gun shows. I think MSRP on them is about $30 if you order from midwayusa. This tool kit has many of the same problems I'm about to relate about the dillon tools.

I don't know if you've ever used the dillon 1050 with the "auto swage" it has all of the same problems the bench swager does, the punches wear out way too fast, if the sizing die/decapping die doesn't knock the primer out, it presents a lot of stress on the machine trying to swage the primer cup back up into the pocket and usually tears off the case head/crashes the machine/breaks the shell plate/bends the counterpressure mandrel. Worse still, there is no good way to clear a jam like this, you have to bring the handle up slowly, and then reset all of the stations by hand as the machine will advance before you bring the head high enough to remove the offending case.

If you want to do serious case processing on the dillon, you need one of the spring loaded decappers (which they don't make for that caliber last I checked I custom made the one I used), you need to set up a vacuum to suck the primers out of the cases (made a custom plastic manifold that also sucked out the swaging station to remove primer dust), and have a lot of patience. You can also try the ponsness-warren autodrive for the 1050, however I had nothing but trouble with it, and it absolutely hated trying to size .223 brass, would break and stall constantly, and trying to clear a jam was an invitation to lose a finger.