.223/5.56 reloading newb

[Certaindeaf]

How important is it to separate brass by head stamps? I'm not going tload for sub MOA, just a solid plinking round.

It shouldn't be necessary if you are using loads that consider the cases with the least capacity/thickest brass.. ie if you use starting loads you should be fine. Always work up your loads though.

 

[Silver Hand]

na

 

[MrMillspecer]

How important is it to separate brass by head stamps? I'm not going tload for sub MOA, just a solid plinking round.

I only separate the LC brass for its own run. It's one of the easiest steps so why not.
Or mix them in, just don't be surprised if your press pulls harder on LC and the volume difference changes your accuracy. If you don't care Herter's or steel case is cheap .

 

[DirectDrive]

How important is it to separate brass by head stamps? I'm not going tload for sub MOA, just a solid plinking round.

Military brass will have crimped primers. If I had mixed .223 civilian with 5.56 military, I would separate out the military brass for primer pocket prep work.
You will need to be ready with a solution to deal with the crimps (military brass) before you can insert a new primer into the case.
You can either cut the crimp out or you can swage the crimp out.
There are several different tools/brands available that deal with the crimped primer pocket problem.

 

[Joey]

Military brass will have crimped primers. If I had mixed .223 civilian with 5.56 military, I would separate out the military brass for primer pocket prep work.
You will need to be ready with a solution to deal with the crimps (military brass) before you can insert a new primer into the case.
You can either cut the crimp out or you can swage the crimp out.
There are several different tools/brands available that deal with the crimped primer pocket problem.

Copy that and have already done that. Bought the Lyman case prep machine to handle that part. Thanks.

 

[galvweld]

If your source is once fired military brass be advised spent primers are some time a challenge and primer pockets need improved to remove crimping material. Reamer available or RCBS makes die set to use on press. Broke too many decapping or de-priming pins so added a dedicated die made specific for task of removing spent military primers. Finally over spent but really enjoying convenience of RCBS competition dies in .223. Port or window allows far easier bullet seating.

 

[Caveman Jim]

^^^^ I was just out in the shop sorting through 500 .223/5.56 cases by head stamps, as DD explains about crimped primer pockets from IMI, LC & RP. I've even found some 40S&W cases that had crimped PP!!!
I use a Lyman Case Prep Express with the PP tools for this, it sure is easy on these ole hands.

 

[Caveman Jim]

You & I both are going to need a larger bench!!!! I just bought a Lee Turret kit...

 

[BlackdogGS]

I'm getting back into reloading after a long 35 year hiatus. Ive been looking for a pratice round and a target round. The real problem is there's way too much information avalible on line. I think I'm worst of now than when I first started my reasearch. I have thousands of mixed brass ready to go. My target load will be 69 gr SMK, Lupua brass, powder is undetermined at this point. As far as my pratice load I'm still looking. Check this out: 223 Rem + 223 AI Cartridge Guide within AccurateShooter.com

 

[Max713]

H335 is most definitely a staple for 223/556 these days... it is my go to. I use CCI 400's for the majority of my loads as well, only the most finnicky loads require CCI BR4's.

Just to give you something to start with, my 16" BCM shoots around 3/4 MOA with this load:

Hornady 55gr Vmax
H335 24.5gr
CCI 400
COAL 2.24"

Substituting a different (cheaper) FMJ pill would be more than satisfactory for plinking.

 

[BlackdogGS]

H335 is most definitely a staple for 223/556 these days... it is my go to. I use CCI 400's for the majority of my loads as well, only the most finnicky loads require CCI BR4's.

Just to give you something to start with, my 16" BCM shoots around 3/4 MOA with this load:

Hornady 55gr Vmax
H335 24.5gr
CCI 400
COAL 2.24"

Substituting a different (cheaper) FMJ pill would be more than satisfactory for plinking.

I thought a 1/7 twist would prefer a heavier bullet. But if your sub MOA I'll give it a try.

 

[FordPrefect]

For "practice" rounds with 55gn bulk bullets, I would stay with the "spherical" powders. They're just easier to work with. Quicker, and easier to measure. So, H335, W748, CFE 223, BL-C(2), TAC, AA2200.
Don't get "stick" powders for bulk loading. They are good for when you slow down and make up "precision" loads. Varget, powders with four numbers... 3031, 4895, 4198, 4064, AR-COMP.

I reload my 223 with Berry's Bulk 55g FMJ-BT w/cannelure using CCI Small Rifle (#400) and 21.6 grains of H335. I got that load data from the Hornady book as the Berry's bullet is similar to the Hornady bullet.

I would say though find the bullet you want to shoot. I use Berry's because they are like $35 for 500 bullets at Cabella's. Once you get the bullet, then you can start on powder/primer workups. Silver Hand made a good point, keep the kids away from the lead. Hell, I use gloves when I am working on used brass or loading just to be sure.

One thing I would add, read published data. I have gone out and bought most of the reloading books, Sierra, Nosler, Hornady, etc. to get info on when I am working on this. I may be strange but I just don't think I could ever read enough before I started.

 

[Max713]

I thought a 1/7 twist would prefer a heavier bullet. But if your sub MOA I'll give it a try.

Sure, on paper.

I also shoot 40gr's in my 1/8" RRA to the tune of 1/3 MOA... I've never run a bullet heavier than 55gr in my "standard" AR's, all 1/7".

I'm not saying the heavier bullets aren't more accurate, but I've never had any reason to try them...

 

[Member 5605]

A 69gr smk is.. $.26 each?

NEReloading sells 55gr pills in bulk for $.077... 1/3rd the cost.

Buy 1K shipped for the cost of 300 SMK's.

Fun either way buddy.