What all tools do I need?

[Diamondback]

As I work up toward the goal of completely assembling an AR from individual components and blanks, I find myself short on a few things and need some advice.

First, what I have:
--Wheeler 156559 Ultra AR Armorer's Toolkit - no screwdrivers, no Allen wrenches, no staking tools, but other than that had everything I needed to build a lower, and other than a bench-mount vise could hsndle knocking an upper together too.
--Allied 66527 Ratcheting Driver Set - couldn't get the hex-bits to engage with my grip-screw, ended up using a Torx, which seemed to work very well.
--EP Armory Jig and Bit Set - bought these for technology familiarization--the 5D jig is on my To Buy list, but I wanted something cheap and expendable to find out if I'm up to the job first. Figured if I could find one to take a 1/2" bit, since I'm big on portable "workshop in a bag" toolkits so I can work on builds while on the road, this thing and a cheap cordless drill would be ideal for an "agile polymer-blank toolkit."

Tools with specific intent to acquire, waiting on budget:
--Spare Allen-wrench set.
--Needlenose pliers.
--M-Guns MOACKS gas-carrier-key staking tool
--EZ Accuracy gas-block dimple tool
--5D Tactical jig - looks heavy and less "mobile," but intended as an "eat any lower I care to feed it while home" tool and not for much mobility.
--Porter-Cable PCE6435 or DeWalt DWP611 router - for 5D jig.
--Some kind of small shop-vac.
--Upper-receiver flat polisher.

Where I'm completely clueless:
--Some kind of tool, whether hand drill, drill plus guide, or mini drill-press, that can handle EP's 7/16" end-mill. Needs to knock down to fit into a sweater box at most, preferably not much more than a shoebox, and I don't want to pay more than $75, preferably no more than $50, since this is meant as a "find out if I'm really game for this BEFORE I buy the expensive stuff" tool.
--Some kind of small vise, heavy and deep enough to grab the EP jig sideplates but still "travel friendly."
--Any other tools I need to add to this list, and suggestions to fill them? Bear in mind, as I said I'd like to keep things small, compact and mobile so that if my mother gets called into Seattle for a weekend of overtime and insists on dragging me with her, since I apparently have to do all her thinking and memory in addition to my own , then I can grab the toolbag and the parts-bag and get back to work as soon as the Evil Old Crab is settled into the hotel room.

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[v0lcom13sn0w]

here's what i use to assemble an AR.

-blue tape
-magnetic tray for parts
-rem oil
-bench vice
-armorers wrench
-plastic hammer
-metal hammer
-needle nose
-steel punches
-non marring punches
-upper vise block,bev block or reaction rod
-block of wood or lower vise block
-torque wrench
-long phillips or allen head for grip
-allen wrench for gas block
-gallon ziplock with magnet in it for when front pivot pin detent goes flying... i started a thread with video on how i install the pin.

i use a 4-40 TAP to thread rear takedown pin hole to install a 4-40x1/8 set screw to capture spring. i cut 1/8" off spring so it'll fit. i do this so that the set screw holds it in instead of rear plate.

might be missin somethin but there's a start

 

[Diamondback]

Blue tape, check. Rem oil, check. Armorer's wrench... if it's anything like an AR combo wrench, in kit. Actually most of that's in the bag, I posted the link to the Wheeler kit because I was too lazy to list all its zillion items, one of which is a very useful pivot-pin detent tool.

Added to shopping list:
--needlenose pliers

Good idea about a spring-trap screw.

 

[HB of CJ]

This is very old AR15 build information. Nothing to add except 1) A good set of aluminum or steel barrel vise blocks that heavily lock down the barrel in that necessary 5 or 6 inch smooth jaws bolt on type HD bench vise. A piece of old shag carpet to pad the barrel works fine. Tighten the bench vise very well.

2) The old fashioned and now updated available front end upper receiver flat honer or polisher. Either hand brace powered or nowadays variable speed electric drill powered. Lapping compound usually. Used to GENTLY dress that flat for exact perpendicularity of the flat to the barrel extension round flange.

Brownells or Midway.

The barrel gets locked down. The upper receiver FLOATS, being supported by hand while that pesky OEM type barrel nut gets gently torqued up DRY to around 40 to 42 pounds MAXIMUM adjusted torque. This old method prevents cracking the upper receiver from over torquing.

With after market updated and improved stuff, this OEM barrel nut stuff does not apply.

If that pesky horrible OEM barrel nut does not line up exactly allowing perfect gas tube alignment at 40 to 42 pounds adjusted torque then the barrel comes off and that front upper receiver flat gets GENTLY polished removing just a tad. This is a learned experience thing. Go slow, have fun.

The after market barrel nuts are a great improvement. But you still torque up dry to only 40-42 pounds.

3) A good certified click torque wrench. Cheapo wrenches may work but may not either. Be sure to calculate and reduce the torque due to the barrel wrench length adding swing value to the wrench handle. All fun and doable if one knows what one is doing. Many USA good brands of good torque wrenches.

4) Small bottle of Brownells aluminum black.

5) Small bottle of Brownells instant cold blue.

MAYBE a couple extra small roll pin punches. The long ones bend so easily.

6) Q tips. Used to touch up dings.

7) Small bottle acetone to wipe the aluminum before quickly using the liquid aluminum black. Used to touch up ouchies.

8) One or two small locking medical forceps for holding dinky stuff like roll pins.

9) A small very thin knife blade for installing those horrible pesky take down pin detents.

10) A large very thin transparent plastic bag , (a dry cleaning garment bag is perfect) to act as a large overall work containment bag for the flying tiny dinky springs and detents. Amazing hang time. Lost forever in the shag carpet. But sometimes the cat finds them.

That is about it. Many different ways to build that precision AR15 rifle. Some good. Some better. PEM if you have specific barrel torquing questions. Do not forget the decaf iced tea and the stereo back ground music. I like quiet classical.

You probably will be using Optics. Indexing the barrel for exact OEM iron site alignment will not be necessary. But .... if you choose to run OEM irons, then much more to do.

Recommend a STEEL front gas block that uses the OEM type taper pins for installation. I have no experience with the adjustable gas blocks.

Oh ... I forgot. Forget stuff easily nowadays. If you are using a roll pin type trigger guard, the pesky dangerous OEM roll pin gets gently and slowly PRESSED in using that handy 5" smooth jaws bench vise. Do not use a hammer or vise grips.

(Do not ask how I know this to be true. Embarrassing. The paperwork was incredible)

Hope this helps. Respectfully. Have fun.

Hundreds of AR15 builds.

 

[thorborg]

here's what i use to assemble an AR.



i use a 4-40 die to thread rear takedown pin hole to install a 4-40x1/8 set screw to capture spring. i cut 1/8" off spring so it'll fit. i do this so that the set screw holds it in instead of rear plate.
might be missin somethin but there's a start

Pardon me, I have no dog in the threading fight but it's "Tap", not die. unless, I misread it and you are making the set screw, then it is die.

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

Pardon me, I have no dog in the threading fight but it's "Tap", not die. unless, I misread it and you are making the set screw, then it is die.

lol thanks bud. its edited now.

 

[Ura-Ki]

Not for Nuffin, But I would get the Gear Wrench screw driver set and go to harbor freight tools and get the 60 piece bit set and a small set of 1/4 drive sockets.
http://www.gearwrench.com/screwdriv...ch-8940-40-pc-ratcheting-screwdriver-set.html
A good set of drift pin punches and a few B.F.H's should get you a good start!
A set of Swiss files and a good carbide pick set would be an awesome start.

 

[Diamondback]

To elaborate, the Wheeler set has:

• AR Armorers Vise
• AR-15 Combo Tool
• Torque Wrench
• AR-15 Armorer’s Bench Block
• AR-15 Roll Pin Install Tool Kit
• • Bolt Catch Install Tool Kit
  • AR Trigger Guard Install Tool
  • 3 Starter Punches and 3 Driver Punches
  • Two Sided Hammer (metal and plastic heads)
  • 6 Steel punches in sizes: 1/16, 5/16 & 3/32
  • 3 with counter-bored tips to start roll pins
  • 3 with indexing tips to finish roll pins
• Upper Vise Block Clamp with Gas Tube Alignment Tool
• Maintenance Mat with Exploded view AR-15
• Pivot Pin & Roll Pin Installation Tool
• AR Front Sight Tool
• Delta Ring Tool
• Strap Wrench
• AR-15 Bore Guide
• AR-15 Adjustable Receiver Link
• Bore Brush, .22 Cal.
• Bolt Carrier Brush
• Chamber Brush
• Magazine/Upper Receiver Brush
• Nylon Brush Handle
• Double-ended General Cleaning Brush
• Cleaning Pick Set

Thinking about the Wheeler 664507 screwdriver kit, which is just right to slide into the Armorer Kit bag, leave the big clunky Allied kit at home. ( Space-Saver Screwdriver Set - Battenfeld )

 

[Velzey]

Wheeler = snap the tip off and scratch the finish..do yourself a huge favor and buy the Brownells magna tip screw driver set.
Lifetime warranty!

I just cannot say anything good about the wheeler kits. Other than I put a huge scratch on a antique stock and then messed up some bluing from a second tip snap.
Sure the brownells set is a little more, but worth it.

The wheeler little torque wrench is actually pretty decent to use!

 

[thorborg]

Embrace @Velzey experience related admonition. I've not held Wheeler tools but relate to disasters stemming form poor quality tools. Especially screwdrivers which are the most deceiving and destructive since when they shatter the focused force is now uncontrollable, something is going to pay for it. I put one nearly through my hand.

 

[uscsoldier]

Two most important tools you'll need to be successful

1) brain
2) commonsense

I've known a couple failed gunsmiths Who both lacked these two very important tools

 

[PiratePast40]

"oops kit"

 

[HB of CJ]

This may sound like piling it on. Not meant to be. Head space gages. Errors occur. You need to know. Perhaps the gages can be borrowed. Also consider a good solid bench rest and a minimum 100 yard range. If you are serious about running OEM irons at DCM matches then consider a 300 yard range.

Why? This applies to those running OEM iron sites front and rear. Not optics. The rear OEM site aperture MUST be exactly centered in the rear receiver carry handle trough with the build shooting, (printing) exactly centered left to right with the rear aperture within about only 4 clicks of being exactly centered.

Again, precision builds only using OEM irons. There is a labour intensive procedure for indexing the barrel. Probably beyond the needs of the causal builder. But if you choose to run OEM irons and want them to be centered and useful, feel free to PEM me. I will work you though it. All fun. All doable. Enjoy.