Hi Kevin, What you describe sounds like the barrel is not cut off straight. Is the gap between the barrel and your tool always in the same place? or.. does your tool "appear" to wobble around the end of the barrel?
The recessed area below the end of the barrel may have been manufactured on a lathe and there may be some undetectable defect. Take a look at this tool
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007273822?pid=684575
This tool fits the bore and makes the crown (recess) concentric with the bore, even with the gap you measured this tool will dress the recessed area so point of bullet departure from the barrel is true to to the bore.
A couple things to note, and correct me if I missed the mark. Your tool does not appear to address the concentricity of the bore to the recess due to the angle of the bore. The flat edge of your tool indicates how perpendicular the end of the barrel is to the bore.
You will have to use your imagination a little bit.......if you cut off the barrel with a hacksaw and did a poor job the tool from midway will still cut an angled recess that is concentric to the bore.
Follow on questions:
Are you using factory ammo or are you using reloaded cartridges?
If reloaded are you using jacketed bullets or cast bullets?
If cast bullets are they the proper diameter for your bore? ;; Slug your bore if this is in question.
Cast bullets are problematic if they do not fit into the rifling.
What does your target look like? Are the holes round, asymmetrical, or elongated. If you look at the backside of a paper target the hole should exhibit a even punch or basically look the same all the way around. You could have round holes but the bullet may have a bit of yaw on it and drag one side of the paper over.
One last thing.. can you make a tool similar to your gauge but take off the flat top and extend the spindle about two inches.
If you can attach a test dial to this tool you can measure the concentricity of the recess (crown) before committing to a cutting tool you will likely use only once.
~Whitney