Sentry Safe Help needed

[Spitpatch]

In any discussion of Gun Safe combination mechanisms, I always point out the "Extra Added Safety Feature" of a mechanical dial-type over that of a digital electronic one. This valuable feature is not mentioned in any owners manuals:

I cannot get into my dial-type safes after 5 beers.

 

[Mikej]

Mikej, Yours has a # and *. But I will try this and change out the batteries.

The directions at the top of the page I posted are for the "Standard Electronic Lock and Duel electronic Key Lock". That is the key pad you have in the picture you posted, same as mine.

 

[jbett98]

I would take the back of the door off and look at the bolt retraction solenoid and see if it can move freely.

 

[gunnut38]

I have been able to resolve my problems. The copy of the manual was the biggest help. Thank you everyone.

 

[Mikej]

I have been able to resolve my problems. The copy of the manual was the biggest help. Thank you everyone.

Good to hear.

 

[Joe13]

All the more reason, I am done with digital safe locks.

I have two rifle safes in my control that I must now use the key instead of the keypad to unlock the safe.

I am on the third keypad for one of them and it still doesn't work, and on the other, less than a year old, it just started beeping and will no longer operate, in spite of the corrective measures suggested.

I have a 3 digit, 4 digit and 5 digit manual combo lock safes and 1 digital number with backup key safe for convenience.

The manual combo lock safes hold all of the important stuff and the digital is a 'storage unit' mostly for guns that hardly ever get shot and came that way for a price that would make most people envious and I just never spent the time to convert it.

Remembering 3 different safe codes is plenty so the convenience is a novelty for me but I would never use it as my primary go to safe and do not trust electronic locks and especially biometric locks.

Ok, I lied I have a 5th one that is a manual combo quick access locks safe for a pistol in the bedroom - this kind of safe I would absolutely never buy a digital, needs batteries, safe for.


OP - glad you got your stuff together. 1 recommendation would be to print that page that helped you and write notes on it cuz if your anything like me you will not remember what the process is when it needs new batteries down the line lol. (Just don't keep it in the safe for 'safe keeping' lol)

 

[Member 53867]

But.. but...

If I lock up my guns, how can I shoot the bad guys that try to steal them?

 

[HiFi Magnetics]

All the more reason, I am done with digital safe locks.

I have two rifle safes in my control that I must now use the key instead of the keypad to unlock the safe.

I am on the third keypad for one of them and it still doesn't work, and on the other, less than a year old, it just started beeping and will no longer operate, in spite of the corrective measures suggested.

Is there a way that electronics can be converted to old school dial?

 

[Mikej]

Is there a way that electronics can be converted to old school dial?

Probably depends on safe brand. I'd think if you had a Liberty, or Tracker you could. Doors are probably cut the same on the two.

 

[HiFi Magnetics]

Probably depends on safe brand. I'd think if you had a Liberty, or Tracker you could. Doors are probably cut the same on the two.

There is a manual key lock opener behind the electronic pad. Without the dial, it makes it easier for a professional thief to open it.

 

[Mikej]

There is a manual key lock opener behind the electronic pad. Without the dial, it makes it easier for a professional thief to open it.

On your safe? Not on my Tracker. I don't know about others.

 

[jbett98]

My electronic lock came with a long shafted key. You pop off an oval shaped cap at the top of the dial to access the internal lock.
I watched a video on how a thief could knock off the dial and then fish around inside the door with a hooked wire and pull out the color coded lock retraction solenoid wires and jump it with a 9v battery, which would pop the door open.
To prevent this from ever happening, I taped all the internal wired to the back of the safe door with metallic aluminum tape.

 

[HiFi Magnetics]

On your safe? Not on my Tracker. I don't know about others.

Yes. I hope I can retrofit an old school dial.

My electronic lock came with a long shafted key. You pop off an oval shaped cap at the top of the dial to access the internal lock.
I watched a video on how a thief could knock off the dial and then fish around inside the door with a hooked wire and pull out the color coded lock retraction solenoid wires and jump it with a 9v battery, which would pop the door open.
To prevent this from ever happening, I taped all the internal wired to the back of the safe door with metallic aluminum tape.

Great idea.... But once I changed mine to old school dial, I will disable the solenoid.

View: https://youtu.be/VzU_zDgvaYg

 

[jbett98]

The lock bar solenoid could be located somewhere else and not as easy to swap out as the video shows.
I would take the back of your safes door off and look at how they welded the safes draw bar assembly in relation to the notch the solenoid drops into when locked.
The safe in the video was set up for either system.