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Anybody have any experience with these guns? I have a new S&W 296 .44 Special revolver I have never fired. I seem to recall reading the Ti guns required special cleaning methods. And there was something about a metal coating on the cylinder.

What happened to the product line? They were around, then gone.

What makes the Ti series special, if that word is applicable.

If someone could shed some light on this I’d sure appreciate it.

Rascal01

Thank you
 
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The one I shot locked up after it got warm. Something about the different expansion rates of the metals used in the frame vs. the cylinder. Nice and light though. Still, not going to depend on something to save my life when it stops working after a short while!
 
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Sweet carry guns they made for a few years around the turn of the century (yipes). Rare. This thread has some owners talking about what cleaning supplies work:

 
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The one I shot locked up after it got warm. Something about the different expansion rates of the metals used in the frame vs. the cylinder. Nice and light though. Still, not going to depend on something to save my life when it stops working after a short while!

Wow! That is good to know for sure. I got one of the very first S&W Model 66’s to come of the assembly line. It did the same thing for the same reason. In my gun it was the gas ring. Smith took care of it.
 
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Sweet carry guns they made for a few years around the turn of the century (yipes). Rare. This thread has some owners talking about what cleaning supplies work:


‘Thank you. That was a great reference. I didn’t know they had a following.
 
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I have a scandium alloy 329 PD, and a TRR8 which is a mix of steel and scandium (scandium frame, steel cylinder and barrel/barrel shroud). I also have experience with a Taurus Total Titanium Tracker in .357

No problems with the Smiths, but I have not shot them much. The 329PD is a handful due to light weight - even with 200 gr 1000 fps loads, it stings to shoot it - that isn't a design or workmanship flaw, it just is a compromise due to the light weight. I would like to get a 325 Thunder Ranch to compare against (but I wish they made it with a .45 LC cylinder that would accept .45 ACP).

The TRR8 is much nicer to shoot due to the added steel. Good balance.

I never shot either of them fast or long enough to get them hot.

The Taurus - I had a problem with it locking up due to the clearance between the cylinder and the barrel being less than 0.001" which is way too tight. After 50 rounds it locked up due to debris, not heat.

No problems with cleaning. :s0092:
 
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Absolutely. That pistol is also unique in that it should be a prelock gun — that, combined with it being a big bore in a medium frame that is lighter than a steel J frame, it's pretty unique and amazing. And worth a pretty penny.

I have a 396 Night Guard and it is dreamy. Also have/had 625-10, 329pd, 340pd, 642 and all have been great but generally are a handful. Getting an X-frame rubber grip helps a lot on an N frame lightweight like the 625/329.
 

Unicykle

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I got a 340 pd, its is an awsome cary piece since it weighs nothing. 357 hurts to shoot so i just cary it with 38+p. They arnt range toys for blowing lots of rounds thru, the scandium series are for daily carry or backpacking.
 
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I got a 340 pd, its is an awsome cary piece since it weighs nothing. 357 hurts to shoot so i just cary it with 38+p. They arnt range toys for blowing lots of rounds thru, the scandium series are for daily carry or backpacking.

I talked to one of the guys that ran the range where I worked. He couldn’t get his head around the fact I had a 296. He’d had one and got rid of it, and said I’d hate mine. The recoil, he said, was like hitting a metal pole with a metal baseball bat. It supposedly sent vibrations up the bones in his arms. Well, whatever. I think maybe he just wanted me to part with mine.

Everyone says the scandium guns kick. I get the message. The other point of view is that this is a hidden hammer .44 Special short barreled revolver that could come in handy some time.

What I seem to recall is reading not to use a bore brush during cleaning. I believe that applied to the cylinder.

I can’t imaging shooting a real .357 through a scandium gun. I think I’d pass on the opportunity. Carry lots, shoot little.

Thanks for the response. I appreciate it.
 
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I’ll take your word for it. The .44 mag in a Model 29 was my limit. Beyond that it’s was no longer fun. The new breed and young bucks have moved to a new level of handgunning. I’m beyond cap and ball but not into hand cannons. Kicking like a mule is ok. Kicking like a mule on PCP is out of my league.

Pass the wadcutters.
 
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8CDC9779-D9EF-4198-A016-015BB7A5339F.jpeg
 
I ran a 329PD through a couple thousand rounds and the original cylinder started having tiny-tiny little squiggly lines or cracks after about 500-600 rounds of factory FMJ. S&W shipped it back for free and fixed it with a new cylinder that I never had another issue with.

They didn’t offer an explanation about the cylinder issue but the Ti cylinder never stopped turning for me even after getting it pretty hot on a few range days.

The only special care I recall about the Ti cylinder was to not use ammonia based cleaners. I always used Hoppe or oil CLP, which worked just fine.

Great guns these Scandium / Ti S&Ws. ;)
 
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My experience with a 342 and hot Corbon ammo was a no go, the weapon had serious recoil, worse than my 44 mags and would pull bullets to the point of locking up the action. I'm content with a 442 these days. I'm not big cleaner of modern weapons.
 
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The coating that you mention is on the face of the cylinder and is there to prevent erosion of the titanium. Use nylon bristled brushes and cleaners like MP7 or Hoppes Elite. I don't even attempt to clean the face of the cylinder.

Re: Expansion rates and tying-up the gun - one anecdotal story does not mean that will happen to you. The same sort of stoppage can occur with an all-steel gun. There are plus or minus tolerances for a reason and sometimes you get what is called "tolerance stack" which can cause something like this regardless what model or material.

Titanium-1.jpg

What you do need to be aware of with the ultra-light big bores is bullet creep. The heavy recoil, due to the light weight, can cause a bullet to dislodge from the case a creep forward, thus tying up the gun. You need a good, heavy roll-crimp on the bullet. That is also the reason for the warning on the barrel - you can use heavier bullets as long as they are adequately crimped.

Adios,

Pizza Bob
 

ma96782

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For me and my S&Ws.....it's either SS or blue steel. I like them PRETTY.

YES, there are many offerings for lighter handguns. But remember.....

RECOIL.

And...if you don't take adequate precautions, blue steel tends to rust and discolor sometimes.

Yup....I use to live in Hawaii. Keeping rust away was a PIA. LOL. Nowadays I try to stick with SS revolvers.:D Not 100% for keeping rust away.....but close.

Aloha, Mark
 
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