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I ran a 329PD through a couple thousand rounds and the original cylinder started having tiny-tiny little squiggly lines or cracks after about 500-600 rounds of factory FMJ. S&W shipped it back for free and fixed it with a new cylinder that I never had another issue with.

They didn't offer an explanation about the cylinder issue but the Ti cylinder never stopped turning for me even after getting it pretty hot on a few range days.

The only special care I recall about the Ti cylinder was to not use ammonia based cleaners. I always used Hoppe or oil CLP, which worked just fine.

Great guns these Scandium / Ti S&Ws. ;)

I found a S&W owner's manual online that went into some detail on cleaning Ti guns. No abrasives or scrubbing the cylinder. Apparently a nylon brush is best. Other info I came across elsewhere discouraged Hoppe's as it contains or containEd ammonia. I seem to recall Hoppe's as changing formulas at some point, so I don't know where this stands in 2020.

Thank's for the input.
 
My experience with a 342 and hot Corbon ammo was a no go, the weapon had serious recoil, worse than my 44 mags and would pull bullets to the point of locking up the action. I'm content with a 442 these days. I'm not big cleaner of modern weapons.

Thank you for your comment. I was going to try Corbon based on a recommendation. I think I'll pass. I handload so I can address crimp and bullet pull. But if recoil is pulling bullets that's too much recoil for defensive shooting. I'll come up with another choice.
 
My buddy put Xgrips on his 329 before 1st range trip. Not a bad idea with heavy loads. Standard 240 range fodder almost pleasant. 200 grain 44 special loads worked better for me. I couldn't get him to sell it to me.

I've been through a number of Model 29's. Even carried a 4" on the job when the circumstances were right. The lightweight 44s are out of my league. I'd have shot the Specials too.

Thanks.
 
The coating that you mention is on the face of the cylinder and is there to prevent erosion of the titanium. Use nylon bristled brushes and cleaners like MP7 or Hoppes Elite. I don't even attempt to clean the face of the cylinder.

Re: Expansion rates and tying-up the gun - one anecdotal story does not mean that will happen to you. The same sort of stoppage can occur with an all-steel gun. There are plus or minus tolerances for a reason and sometimes you get what is called "tolerance stack" which can cause something like this regardless what model or material.

View attachment 730217

What you do need to be aware of with the ultra-light big bores is bullet creep. The heavy recoil, due to the light weight, can cause a bullet to dislodge from the case a creep forward, thus tying up the gun. You need a good, heavy roll-crimp on the bullet. That is also the reason for the warning on the barrel - you can use heavier bullets as long as they are adequately crimped.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

I came across a fellow on line that had scrubbed the face of his Ti cylinder to remove powder stains. The cylinder had been destroyed. Your guidance is on the mark and mirrors Smith &Wesson's instructions.

An early S&W Model 66 locked up on me and they corrected the issue without a hitch.

Yep, I'm up on the bullet pull issue.

Thank you for your input. It came in handy in confirming how to deal with my Ti concerns.
 
For me and my S&Ws.....it's either SS or blue steel. I like them PRETTY.

YES, there are many offerings for lighter handguns. But remember.....

RECOIL.

And...if you don't take adequate precautions, blue steel tends to rust and discolor sometimes.

Yup....I use to live in Hawaii. Keeping rust away was a PIA. LOL. Nowadays I try to stick with SS revolvers.:D Not 100% for keeping rust away.....but close.

Aloha, Mark
I don't mind manageable recoil. It's part of the weight/power/recoil mix and I try to find a balance. Excessive recoil inhibits fast shooting and takes some of the fun out of trigger time. I have no interest in trying to impress the shooter next to me.

I despise rust on guns and admire a good blue job. I also don't enjoy gun cleaning to excess. My solution was to go to stainless steel, nickel or hard chrome impregnated handguns.

The best thing I have found to eliminate rust is G-96 cleaner and preservative. It is a spray-on product in a red, yellow and black can. It has gotten a bit pricey and worth every cent. Follow the instructions and your rust issues may we'll be eliminated. Also great for flushing out hard to get at areas, such as trigger groups or auto pistol slides.

Thank you for your comment.
 

The one thing I agree with is the magna-porting. I used to live about a half-hour drive from those guys and had .44s and .357s done. It worked for me. A Ti .44 Magnum? Not for me. Nope. I'd almost rather hand launch a bazooka rocket with a flashlight battery.

BTW, YouTube has videos of people shooting the 296. It looks to me like recoil is straight back and most folks were not enjoying it.

Thanks for the video.
 
I've never been one of those guys that has to polish the stainless cylinder face after every range session like a lot of guys do. Hoppes, a bristle brush and some flannel works fine on ti and regular guns.
I did have to make a pass through each chamber on a ti gun with an actual stainless chamber brush once as it was so ganked with lead and carbon a bronze chamber brush wouldn't work at all. Didn't notice any scratches or anything.
 
I've never been one of those guys that has to polish the stainless cylinder face after every range session like a lot of guys do. Hoppes, a bristle brush and some flannel works fine on ti and regular guns.
I did have to make a pass through each chamber on a ti gun with an actual stainless chamber brush once as it was so ganked with lead and carbon a bronze chamber brush wouldn't work at all. Didn't notice any scratches or anything.

Thanks. I think I'll stick with jacketed bullets. Cleaning up after leading can be a chore.
 
You'd be surprised. My latest acquisition is an Elmer Keith Commemorative 29-3. I've told two "gun" people and gotten the "Who?" response. I think that if you're under 40, that is most likely your response.
 
Shot my new 629 6.5" today.
And shootin buddy brought his new (never fired) 686 6"
Both are easy and fun to shoot.
S&W rubber grips on both.

Both revolvers are crazy-accurate.
It's fun to shoot wheelguns (again).
The water jugs and baking soda-filled jugs blew up good !
 
My SW929 get soaked with Hopped "Elite" as it contains no ammonia. My son (10) just put about 250 rounds through it today so he's getting a lesson on hot to clean it now. He's old enough to chew through a bunch of ammo so he can start cleaning too . All my stainless revolvers get the lead away wipes for carbon fouling, works like magic. Only thing is it will give it a satin finish over time but can easily polish back out in very little time.
 

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