S&W J-Frames

[RedneckRampage]

I've decided I may want to buy an older, blued, J frame in .38. I really like the hammerless ones, but my guess is they are worth more. What can I expect to pay for a shooter grade 2" J frame? How about a hammerless one?

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[IronMonster]

Well persoanlly think buying a new no lock is the way to go. Your probably going to have to spend $350 on a used one and can buy new for maybe $75 more (for a hammerless)

 

[Hill]

We're not in the same state but you could buy this one for about $850. I'm only guessing the going rate but I know that it wasn't a cheap one to buy when I bought it. It's a nickeled model 49, not stainless, and made long before the silly locks were thought up.

I have carried it with an Allesi IWB holster and a pretty and better grip - wooden Hogue that makes it a little bigger but a whole lot nicer to shoot and the nice thing is that it's got the great Smith single action available by virtue of a cockable hammer slider on top of the hump.

 

[Just Jim]

Model 60 Smith is a great gun....

 

[boogerhook]

I've decided I may want to buy an older, blued, J frame in .38. I really like the hammerless ones, but my guess is they are worth more. What can I expect to pay for a shooter grade 2" J frame? How about a hammerless one?

couple of thoughts on the hammer vs no hammer:
Mine has a hammer, and I am happy to have it. #1 In SA you can still hit a 5 inch target at 15 yds (I find that difficult in DA with such a light revolver) #2 I prefer OWB thumb break holsters (for comfort) and they are more secure if you have a hammer.

 

[U201491]

I like the 36's and the 60's.
Have had an ad trying to trade for one for some time.
They are great little revolvers.
Had several of them in past years.
Would really like to find another one.
I don't think you could go wrong with them. Don't use +P's in them though.

 

[Greenbug]

A blued hammerless J frame is going to be difficult to find, and probably pricey to boot.

A model 40 is a blued hammerless J frame with a "lemon squeezer" grip safety.
A model 42 is a blued lightweight J frame hammerless.
A model 442 is a newer style "airweight" hammerless blackened J frame (usually with the lock).
A model 38 is a shrouded hammer blued J frame.
A model 36 is a blued exposed hammer J frame (most common and easiest to find).

Maybe this will help narrow your search down to what you are looking for....

Cheers!

 

[Papercidal]

The model 49 is the best of both worlds it still has a hamer for sa but it is shrouded to avoid snags but you can't have mine.

 

[SynapticSilence]

I have an excellent condition Model 36 no dash that's just a dream to carry and shoot. Bought it from the son of the original owner, always had been in the family.

 

[Strykervet]

I got my wife's 649 shrouded hammer (still works in SA, which is nice) and it's .357, so +P's aren't an issue. SS also carries better, especially up here. This is a no lock revolver with the firing pin built into the frame (which I prefer). $450 or so at a gunshow out the door. She has a CT grip on it which is bigger and she likes it and it works well for her purse carry. She's been using and carrying J-frames daily for a decade now, still carries her .22 317 on walks in a kydex clip on.

I have a 340PD concealed hammer .357, scandium frame and titanium cylinder, it can handle everything but hand load .357's using slow burning powders like N110, light bullets and bullets not seated and crimped well. It's so light I carry it even as a backup if I carry something else. I've literally forgotten I've had it on me a few times. I carry it in an empty pocket with the stock rubber grips, but I'd like a nice IWB crossdraw holster for it.

I'd imagine most blued J-frames to be fairly cheap. They are common and not many people carry them anymore. Just keep your eyes open and be patient for the right one.

The 317 and the 340PD both came with the keys. With most pistols, the lock isn't a problem, but at least with the light 340PD, it can and will lock up the revolver due to recoil (I've had it happen). Here's how to disable easy-peasy and takes very little time: Take apart the revolver carefully and properly, look up how to if you don't know because you can damage the frame and/or the side plate if you don't. Once you have the side plate off, you can take this opportunity to clean and lube it all up, light oil here, little grease there if need be. If you know what you are doing, you can also change springs or make adjustments now, something I'd do to a used or older revolver.

Remove the "flag". This is the portion that the key cams and is what locks the weapon. It's flat, rounded sort of quadrilateral shaped with one round peg sticking out one corner. This peg is the lock. File this peg down flat. A file will take it down fast and easy without heating up the part or damaging it and you can then re-blue or finish it how you please.

Reinstall and put back together. Everything will go back as normal and the lock will work like it used to, only now it won't engage. Meaning everything looks the same, there is no hole where the key used to be as with other methods (removing the flag altogether) so crud can't get in there, etc. Only difference is the lock won't work but the key will, so if you sell the revolver, it would behoove you to replace this part. You could get it in writing, but that still may not be enough if you sold it to someone stupid. Luckily, the flags are only a couple of bucks through S&W.

If you ever send it back to S&W, I think they undo any mods you make to the safeties. I think this includes the mag safeties on the 3rd gen. semi autos too.

If you want to do away with it permanently/semi-permanently, and are considering a Cerakote job, you can do the above modification and then sand out and fill in that hole (weld would be best) sand blast and finish the color(s) of your choice. Purely cosmetic and I haven't gone this far, but I have removed the two flag models I have. I try to buy used Smiths when possible but some models you just can't.

Wish they'd do away with the stupid lock. It's the worst idea ever.

 

[No_Regerts]

I picked up a new 637 for $404 after tax. Its stainless, not blued. For the price, you might consider it.

 

[boogerhook]

I picked up a new 637 for $404 after tax. Its stainless, not blued. For the price, you might consider it.

I have one with hammer, airlight, advanced trigger, TALO version. Took it out today. Boy does it kick compared to a SP101. Despite a large Hogue grip, the cylinder release bites my strong hand thumb knuckle every time. I know you don't care about your knuckle when defending your life, but it makes practice just a little less enjoyable.

 

[SynapticSilence]

Just bought a new 638. Somewhat ungainly little sucker with the hump back, but I like the shrouded hammer that makes it snag free but still gives you the ability to cock it for single action if you want to. Hides in your pocket like a charm.

 

[Hook686]

I see a 2" S&W 442 on GunBroker for $250 ... airweight hammerless.

 

[SynapticSilence]

That's a good price. I'd hesitate to buy a used Airweight sight unseen, though. Or you could roll the dice and see.

 

[Strykervet]

Airweights don't have good resale value, none of the aluminum frames do and those are also limited to +P. So yeah, that's a pretty good price. But I have to agree, it's hard to buy sight unseen for used, well, anything.

 

[stmcelroy]

Or just get a Colt Detective Special.