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@Lesliet
This is a continuation of a the trigger job postings that started in the What Did You Load Today thread. I thought it would be better to continue it in its own thread.
What did you reload today? | Northwest Firearms - Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming Gun Owners Posts 1686-88, 1691
So, hmmmmm ....
It didn't work out like I thought it would. As stated in the other posts, I installed the Brownells / Wolff spring kit consisting of their reduced power mainspring and a 13# trigger rebound spring. This created a DA pull weight of 6 pounds, which as I expected, barely dented the CCI primers I was using when I tested fired the gun on Monday. They looked like the primers on an AR15 after chambering but not being fired. There was a barely discernable dimple.
So today I reinstalled the factory mainspring and left the lighter rebound spring in place. This brought the DA trigger weight to the 12# range which is 2# lighter than when the innards were unpolished using the stock rebound spring. This was heaver that I wanted so I backed off the strain screw a full turn bringing the DA trigger to the 7.5# range, but I got about 30% misfires at this setting.
Turning the strain screw in a half turn (so it's basically turned out 1/2 turn from full bottom position) gave a just over 10# DA trigger and 100% firing of the last 24 rounds I had available for testing. I'll run some rounds through the gun tomorrow and see if the reliability is still there.
I was hoping for a better DA trigger than this. I've worked on a lot of Ruger DA revolvers and have no problem getting them down in the 8# range with no misfires even with CCI primers. I've helped folks polish out their S&W revolvers in the past since it's easy to do, but never messed with the springs until now. I'm surprised that the Wolff spring kit so drastically lowered the weight to the point of utter unreliability. I wonder if I have a defective main spring, because I really don't think my revolver could be that far out of spec. What do you think?
I'll play with the strain screw a bit more tomorrow as well as I really would like to get this trigger at least in the 9# range. I may need to do some more polishing since there seems to be a bit of roughness as the trigger just starts to move. I can always get a shim set too, that might get rid of the roughness. While the parts are out of the gun I can bevel the corner of the trigger just at the top of the arc shaped portion. This corner digs into my trigger finger when shooting DA. It dug into my son's finger too. I'm surprised S&W would have such a sharp spot on their triggers, I can't be the first person to have this issue. I've never messes with smoothing MIM parts, and this gun has an MIM trigger and hammer. Since I'm just touching the corner with a stone to cut the sharp edge I don't think I'll have any issues, but if you know of something I should look for please let me know!
I've heard some folks get really worked up saying you should never use the strain screw for adjusting the trigger weight and that it needs to be fully seated at all times? Do you know why? Why have the screw in the first place otherwise? With Loctite a drifting screw would not be a problem, and you could always get an overly long screw and grind it to the correct length if you really wanted to bottom it out for some reason. So, If you can enlighten me on this I'm happy to learn!
Another bummer, one of the new Wilson Combat 1911 magazines that came in my recently purchased 3-pack failed on me. The floorplate just slips off with light thumb pressure. I tried increasing the bend in the small tab protruding from the retaining plate, but it still does not secure the base pad properly. So I have to mess with a return, I really don't like having to do that type of thing. First world problem I know, but it bugs me just the same.
So, I'll let you know how it works out after shooting the gun again tomorrow.
This is a continuation of a the trigger job postings that started in the What Did You Load Today thread. I thought it would be better to continue it in its own thread.
What did you reload today? | Northwest Firearms - Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming Gun Owners Posts 1686-88, 1691
So, hmmmmm ....
It didn't work out like I thought it would. As stated in the other posts, I installed the Brownells / Wolff spring kit consisting of their reduced power mainspring and a 13# trigger rebound spring. This created a DA pull weight of 6 pounds, which as I expected, barely dented the CCI primers I was using when I tested fired the gun on Monday. They looked like the primers on an AR15 after chambering but not being fired. There was a barely discernable dimple.
So today I reinstalled the factory mainspring and left the lighter rebound spring in place. This brought the DA trigger weight to the 12# range which is 2# lighter than when the innards were unpolished using the stock rebound spring. This was heaver that I wanted so I backed off the strain screw a full turn bringing the DA trigger to the 7.5# range, but I got about 30% misfires at this setting.
Turning the strain screw in a half turn (so it's basically turned out 1/2 turn from full bottom position) gave a just over 10# DA trigger and 100% firing of the last 24 rounds I had available for testing. I'll run some rounds through the gun tomorrow and see if the reliability is still there.
I was hoping for a better DA trigger than this. I've worked on a lot of Ruger DA revolvers and have no problem getting them down in the 8# range with no misfires even with CCI primers. I've helped folks polish out their S&W revolvers in the past since it's easy to do, but never messed with the springs until now. I'm surprised that the Wolff spring kit so drastically lowered the weight to the point of utter unreliability. I wonder if I have a defective main spring, because I really don't think my revolver could be that far out of spec. What do you think?
I'll play with the strain screw a bit more tomorrow as well as I really would like to get this trigger at least in the 9# range. I may need to do some more polishing since there seems to be a bit of roughness as the trigger just starts to move. I can always get a shim set too, that might get rid of the roughness. While the parts are out of the gun I can bevel the corner of the trigger just at the top of the arc shaped portion. This corner digs into my trigger finger when shooting DA. It dug into my son's finger too. I'm surprised S&W would have such a sharp spot on their triggers, I can't be the first person to have this issue. I've never messes with smoothing MIM parts, and this gun has an MIM trigger and hammer. Since I'm just touching the corner with a stone to cut the sharp edge I don't think I'll have any issues, but if you know of something I should look for please let me know!
I've heard some folks get really worked up saying you should never use the strain screw for adjusting the trigger weight and that it needs to be fully seated at all times? Do you know why? Why have the screw in the first place otherwise? With Loctite a drifting screw would not be a problem, and you could always get an overly long screw and grind it to the correct length if you really wanted to bottom it out for some reason. So, If you can enlighten me on this I'm happy to learn!
Another bummer, one of the new Wilson Combat 1911 magazines that came in my recently purchased 3-pack failed on me. The floorplate just slips off with light thumb pressure. I tried increasing the bend in the small tab protruding from the retaining plate, but it still does not secure the base pad properly. So I have to mess with a return, I really don't like having to do that type of thing. First world problem I know, but it bugs me just the same.
So, I'll let you know how it works out after shooting the gun again tomorrow.