Revisiting Gun Auctions

[arakboss]

I have been very reluctant to purchase items from online auctions for fear of getting ripped off. Recently I decided to take another look at them, starting with gunbroker. My search of listings will be limited to larger retailers. I will also pay close attention to the fine print and search out those sellers who charge reasonable shipping and who don't ding me for using card for payment.

What are some of your favorite sellers currently on gunbroker?

What is your bidding strategy?

How do you prevent yourself from overpaying by getting caught up in bidding competition?

My plan is to figure out what my max purchase price limit is (including shipping) and make one bid at that amount. If I am outbid then I'll move on to the next shiny object that catches my attention. I will bid early in the auction period so I am less influenced by what others have bid on an item.

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[Moeca]

I don't do alot on gunbroker but have used it some. Mostly going after older stuff.
My bidding is about the same as what you laid out. Usually put in a max with shipping, tax and transfer figured into it. Now every so often I will go back in and up it. I have found there are alot of people with bigger wallets then I on there!
I tend to steer clear of sellers with only one or two items. Unless they have been on there awhile. As you said reading everything in the listing is important.
Getting away from the additional charge for cards is dang near impossible on there any more.
Mostly I search the item I'm after and narrow it down from there. I do have some sellers I watch that tend to have older guns.
Nwshortie. Talostactical, lockstockandbarrel I have used and had no problems.
Mbr has ar parts if looking for retro or oddball barrels especially.
The different gunbusters are fun to look at for parts. They dispose of firearms under contract.

 

[eustace_stelio]

I bought 2 pistol and 2 knives from gunbroker for good deals. I just made sure they had several positive reviews. Sent in money orders for pistols and paid with credit card for knives.

I would tell you who those sellers were but apparently gunbroker doesn't allow you to look up items you bought from past 90 days. Or I think you can request a buy report but it looks like they charge for that service.

 

[Alexx1401]

I have been very reluctant to purchase items from online auctions for fear of getting ripped off. Recently I decided to take another look at them, starting with gunbroker. My search of listings will be limited to larger retailers. I will also pay close attention to the fine print and search out those sellers who charge reasonable shipping and who don't ding me for using card for payment.

What are some of your favorite sellers currently on gunbroker?

What is your bidding strategy?

How do you prevent yourself from overpaying by getting caught up in bidding competition?

My plan is to figure out what my max purchase price limit is (including shipping) and make one bid at that amount. If I am outbid then I'll move on to the next shiny object that catches my attention. I will bid early in the auction period so I am less influenced by what others have bid on an item.

I have bought a few guns off GB. Never won anything by Bid, have bought some stuff that was just not to be found. ALL my online shopping has one rule. If I can't pay with plastic I will not buy. The stuff bought on GB was the same. Some sellers who would take plastic wanted me to pay the cost of using the card. I had zero problem with this. Many buy stuff off them with the Postal Money Order thing and say they never have a problem. Not worth the risk to me but to each his own.

 

[eustace_stelio]

If someone has over 20 or 30 positive reviews it's not that big of a gamble sending a few hundred dollar money order, imo.

Send it with tracking and signature requirement.

If someone wants to ruin their good reputation over a few hundred bucks then so be it.

Anything over $400 and I'd probably only do credit card.

 

[arakboss]

My first attempt was a fail. I bid $50 for a Ruger SR9C and it is already up to $105 with 4 days left.

 

[Kruel J]

My first attempt was a fail. I bid $50 for a Ruger SR9C and it is already up to $105 with 4 days left.

Did you really think you'd get it for $50?

 

[Andy54Hawken]

I don't bid....
I can either afford the asking price or not.
I can't stand the back and forth dickering at gun shows....
And don't wanna be out bid at the last moment by someone who has the time to watch the online gun auction all damn day.

The above is not to say that I have never offered a price at a gun show...
I have...however it is a price that is usually close to the asking price...but all that I can afford at that moment...
It also has to be a firearm that I really want...not a simple case of gun lust.

As for online gun auctions...I have seen too many friends get stuck with a firearm that was described as in very good condition...
But ended up looking more like something that was drug down 5 miles of bad road and left out in the rain for a few years.
Andy

 

[Ducati_Meister]

I've seen some guns on GB that look tempting, but I've never been good at bidding and I'd feel like I'd end up paying more than I'm willing to pay, if not what it is worth. Sort of an art form with those auctions the way I see it. CC fees are annoying, but hard to avoid online. Plus you add transfer fees and use taxes, adds up quickly.

 

[esbshaw]

'boss - I have been using gunbroker for approx. 20 years and have never been cheated, ripped off, or had any kind of problem or bad experience. I just checked my account and I have 141 feedbacks left as a buyer (have never been a seller, buyer only). Probably a third of those have been firearms, so I've won about 50 firearm auctions and have probably been outbid at least ten times for every one that I've won. I have only bid on used firearms, I don't think I've ever bid on a new one. Some simple rules will keep you out of trouble:
1. Instant checkout with credit card ONLY. That almost always means you're dealing with an FFL-holding business, usually a gunshop or pawnshop. They're not there to play games and don't want you too, either. They want to sell a gun as smooth and seamlessly as possible. Super simple, you use the secure checkout system and next thing you know they're emailing you a tracking number. Yeah, you'll pay 2-4% for using a card. Doesn't bother me a bit. Beats going to the Post Office and standing in line to buy a USPS money order.
2. If the side plate screws on a revolver, grip screws on a pistol, or action screws on a rifle are mangled - hard pass. I don't want it. If you can't examine it in person, the condition of the screws is absolutely the most reliable way of determining what kind of "home gunsmithing" abuse its received. Also, hard pass on anything that's had a "trigger job".
3. Bid low. It is so much nicer to get a "steal" than to overpay (I've done both). Immense satisfaction to score something you've always wanted for about half of what they normally go for. 49 times out of 50 you'll be outbid, but once in a while you'll get lucky.
4. Nothing kills the fun faster than having your firearm damaged in transit. I always insist on having the seller ship in a hard case. Usually, since you're probably dealing with a gunshop or pawnshop, they've got a bunch of old, used, cheap plastic hard cases in back and are more than happy to ship your firearm in one. If not, offer to pay an extra $25 or $30 for a new one. But in every instance, insist on it being shipped in a hard case. I've only had one firearm damaged in shipment (Browning shotgun - broken stock), and it is a headache that you do not need.
5. Also, a lot of people seem to be worried about fake and shill bidders running up the price. I have never worried about it and have never experienced it. I also just blow right on past anything that has a "hidden reserve".
6. Many people think its foolish to buy a used smith & wesson revolver without handling it first, and have a huge checklist of things to look for and tests to perform (cylinder end shake, out of time, improper indexing, etc. etc.) before buying one. I've gotten at least a dozen or more off of gunbroker auctions, and every single one has been mechanically sound and fully in spec and functional. Just keep your eye on the side plate screws and general overall condition. If it looks good, chances are it is good, especially an older one. Maybe I've just been lucky.
7. Most of the action occurs in the last 15 minutes of an auction. You can be the only bidder on an item and watch it for a week. It will then get a dozen bids in the last 15 minutes.

 

[Juniper9mm]

I look for the proportion of reviews total to 'F' ratings. For a large volume dealer, a few Fs sprinkled through is normal, however is it's a smaller volume dealer that has proportionally/relatively many F ratings, then I'm going to steer clear. Good presentation is important: photo and verbal description. I look for global photos if in particular it's a used firearm and description that gives the dealers impression and rating.
Lock Stock and Barrel is one of my preferred dealers out of Simi Valley, CA:

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1013967976

JP9

 

[eustace_stelio]

Gunbroker has a 15 minute rule so people can't snipe an auction at the last minute.

Say there is only 1 minute in auction and someone out bids you the clock goes back to 15 minutes and you get an email notice. So you can bid again if you want.

Also you can set your top dollar bid and let it play out. Say your top dollar bid you set is $450 but the next highest bid ends up be $275 you'll only have to pay $275. And as others bid you'll automatically out bid them until your set top bid is surpassed.

Though after paying shipping and transfer cost those great deals tend to become just ok deals.

 

[Andy54Hawken]

Though after paying shipping and transfer cost those great deals tend to become just ok deals.

This is something very important to consider , but often overlooked , when bidding or buying online.
Andy

 

[bradsteen]

I've had great luck with GunBroker - multiple purchases (firearms as well as parts), no scams. I use plastic whenever possible, but on a few deals have had to go the cashier's check route - in each case, the seller shipped promptly when payment was received and the items were exactly as described.

Do your due diligence, inspect the photos carefully, read the fine print, check out the seller, and if it sounds fishy don't be afraid to walk away - same rules as you would use on eBay.

 

[esbshaw]

Though after paying shipping and transfer cost those great deals tend to become just ok deals.
Amen, brother. Then add in a 3% credit card fee and a harsh 10% 'use' tax (i.e. sales tax) and you're really wondering "what happened to my sweet auction deal"???!!!

And I would be remiss if I failed to mention that the 10% use tax gets applied to the total of the entire transaction: price of item, shipping charges, AND the credit card fee!!! What a jam job! Although to be fair, that's the state of Washington's rules, not gunbroker's.

 

[OldBroad44]

I have been very reluctant to purchase items from online auctions for fear of getting ripped off. Recently I decided to take another look at them, starting with gunbroker. My search of listings will be limited to larger retailers. I will also pay close attention to the fine print and search out those sellers who charge reasonable shipping and who don't ding me for using card for payment.

What are some of your favorite sellers currently on gunbroker?

What is your bidding strategy?

How do you prevent yourself from overpaying by getting caught up in bidding competition?

My plan is to figure out what my max purchase price limit is (including shipping) and make one bid at that amount. If I am outbid then I'll move on to the next shiny object that catches my attention. I will bid early in the auction period so I am less influenced by what others have bid on an item.

Actually, if the seller charges you the same for using a credit card as those who used some version of cash, he is dinging all those who pay cash. He has to pay a fee for the use of credit cards. I think it is fairer if he passes along the credit card fee to those who use credit cards instead of charging everyone and making those who dont use credit cards support those who use them.

 

[arakboss]

Did you really think you'd get it for $50?

No, $40 but I padded it by 25%.

 

[mtndewjustin]

I just got a 43x off of there. Doing the math yes it can be cheaper easier than the store.

 

[Alexx1401]

Though after paying shipping and transfer cost those great deals tend to become just ok deals.
Amen, brother. Then add in a 3% credit card fee and a harsh 10% 'use' tax (i.e. sales tax) and you're really wondering "what happened to my sweet auction deal"???!!!

And I would be remiss if I failed to mention that the 10% use tax gets applied to the total of the entire transaction: price of item, shipping charges, AND the credit card fee!!! What a jam job! Although to be fair, that's the state of Washington's rules, not gunbroker's.

Now here again not a lawyer, Holiday Inn stay and all that but, that has not been my experience. Last couple guns I bought off GB the shop here told me to make sure they sent an invoice showing what the gun actually cost. The shop then only charged sales tax on that amount. As for the Credit Card fee that never bothered me as every shop I have ever used up this way charged that same fee when buying from them. If I wanted to pay with plastic they passed that cost on to me. Now "some" dealers on GB wave this fee. Last two rifles I bought both dealers let me use plastic with no extra. If they had wanted me to pay the fee they pay I would have had no problem with it.

 

[fstdraw]

I've used gunbroker a few times, good experience always. I've bought from nwshortie a few times also and always been pleased. Other sites? Not so positive. Between lack of trust, buyer premiums and fees, lack personal contact, I just shy away from most other auction sites. Believe it or not even with all the know-it-alls on NWFA, I find most of the guns I want or need in the classifieds. Generally, great peeps on here.